Oil pan gasket

D

Daba

Member
Can you change the oil pan gasket without removing the motor I thought I saw somewhere cannot or it’s very difficult to get the oil pick up unit back in unless the motor is upside down?? Thanks in advance for your infinite wisdom the bills me out more times than not.
Daba
 
Yes you can, but obviously, it’s much easier out of the car. Check out the Santa Anna As website for a very informative article from the Restorer, on a leakless pan gasket install. Or just google Model a leakless pan gasket installation. It will come up from several sources.
 
Helps if you can raise the car up a bit. I use the ramps. Plus it helps if you have a comfortable creeper. Also helps if you enjoy getting oil in your face and hair.
 
The Brattons oil pan "snap" studs look to be the "ticket". In years past I would secure gaskets in place by tying off at several of the bolt holes with common cotton sewing thread. Holds the gasket in place until bolts go home. Thread just stays there for ever, no harm.
Joe B
 
I’ve done this many times. First, soak the front gasket in oil for 24 hours. Make a tapered dowel that fits into the distibutor lock screw hole (stubby Phillips head screwdriver will also serve). Wedge that dowel in the hole while holding the oil pump up into its correct position; with pump situated wedge the dowel in with shims or whatever will work to hold the pump in place. Then make sure mating surfaces of the pan and block are clean and smooth, and all sludge is cleaned put of the pan. Make and install four temporary guide bolts by cutting off the heads of the proper size bolts, then firmly seat the soaked front seal in the front groove with a rubber mallet by laying a large socket on the gasket and gently tapping into a firm fit. Put gasket sealant on the four corners where the larger cork gaskets meet the crankshaft and on the ends of the fiber gasket. I don’t trim those end tabs off the gaskets, but some guys do. Use a sticky gasket sealer and affix the gaskets to the pan. Put a film of sealant on the meeting face of the block. Use a small floor jack under the pan, protected with a piece of 2x4 or 2x6, between the jack and the pan to eliminate potential denting of the pan, and slowly jack the pan up till you can align the pan bolt holes with the four guide bolts, then raise it fully into position and begin fixing the finish bolts and washers into place to hold the pan in place. Remove the guide bolts and install four correct pan bolts. Then remove the dowel, put the screw/bolt and lockwasher back in the hole where the dowel was, and put fresh oil in while you’re thinking of it. Have a beer, relax.
 
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It been a while since I have done it, but I like 700rpm's method. I have used the snap-up clips and they are a big help. I held the pump up with a loop of bailing wire. When the pan is in place, but with a 1/8 inch gap, I slip the wire out.

Good luck,

Ken
 
KGBnut said:
It been a while since I have done it, but I like 700rpm's method. I have used the snap-up clips and they are a big help. I held the pump up with a loop of bailing wire. When the pan is in place, but with a 1/8 inch gap, I slip the wire out.

Good luck,

Ken
Click to expand...
That how I do it, but I have some headless threaded rod and nuts to hold the pan up. Cut slits in the top of the rod in case you need to use a screw driver to remove.
 
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