oil pan gasket replacement

I usually pull the engine if the oil pan has to be removed . I avoid working under the car as much as I can . I feel that a better job can be done with the engine removed , so that I can work comfortably ..
 
When I pull the engine , I remove the oil pan before turning the engine over . The oil that remains in the dipper tray can't be drained and will make a mess inside the engine if it is turned over before removing the oil pan !!!
 
fitting and gluing the cork on the rear main,upside down with oil dripping in your face..nah,there is a better way..pleasure comes from working clean,comfortable and relaxed.
 
On an engine being overhauled that I was helping break down years back, when pulling the oil pan, in some holes, holding the gasket to the pan were (it looked like) string holding the gasket to the pan. It was imbedded in the gasket! Just what someone did, with what they had.
 
Was having a fit with trying to keep the ream main gasket in place until I realized that the inspection plate helps hold it in place. After that I was able to get the pan up and then realized that the spring on the bottom of the oil pump was a tad long. I had to use a jack to hold it up and then compress it. That pump aint goin nowhere! But the pan is up and secure. Next up-see if there are any leaks-I sure as %#$% hope not.


Mike
 
If I had to use a jack to hold the inspection plate in place I would be concerned that the spring on the pump may have been compressed to the point that the spring was closed or nearly closed . The spring serves a purpose . If the spring didn't serve a purpose Henry wouldn't have used a spring . I've never had this problem . If the spring was too long , I would have sent it back and replaced it with the correct spring . Just a thought .
 
If you didn't put any sealant where the cork rear main seal meets the pan gasket you will leak. The oil pump spring has some tension applied,it provides a check valve for the pump to pass debris or the cam to endplay.
 
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There are two different width rear oil pan seals used on the model A engines . The 28-29 seal was 13/32 wide , part number 9790 , the 30-31 seal was 3/8 wide part number 9800 .. Some model A parts catalogs only list one width . Brattons catalog lists the rear oil pan seals on page 48 of the 2017 catalog that I' looking at . It sounds like you've got the narrow seal that is too narrow to hold its self in place . I've never seen the need to glue the seal to the rear main bearing cap . If the correct seal is used the seal will fit into the groove of the rear main bearing cap plenty tight enough to hold it in place while the oil pan is being installed . The inspection plate and rear of the oil pan will push the cork seal very tightly into the grove on the rear main cap as the oil pan is tightened . All of the rear oil pan seals are too long and must be trimmed and fitted . The ends of the seal fits on top of the oil pan gasket , where the gasket fits into the groove on the rear main bearing cap . I seal the ends of the seal where it rests on top of the rear oil pan gasket tabs . If these tabs are cut off in a short cut attempt to install the gasket to the oil pan instead of the block CAN result in an oil leak that resemble a rear main bearing leak

. Just to add a thought , There is always a chance that the rear main bearing cap may have been replaced at some point in time . If the main bearing cap that came on the engine has been replaced it could easily have a 28-29 cap on a 30-31 engine and the groove size on the main bearing cap won't be correct for the model . When I get ready to perform such a procedure , I will have both seals on hand just incase . The rear pan seals are inexpensive .
 
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I think what I did when I put the oil pump back together was 'unscrew' the spring with the strip of metal that hold it to the pump. I didn't realize that there is a specified length to it. So if there is a length to it what is it? It is the original spring and it has plenty of spring left to it.


As for the cork gasket I sized it to the cap but it was very inflexible and just would not stay in the cap. The other piece of cork was to wide for the cap.


Thanks,


Mike
 
Cleaning the valve chamber was mentioned. It's difficult at best to do completely. Either let it alone if it's not real bad or make sure no sludge chunks remain that could plug the oil feed holes to the main bearings.
 
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