oil pan gasket replacement
- Thread starter JoeMarine
- Start date
Joe K
Well-known member
Permatex-80065-Gasket-Sealant-Aerosol
Spray one side of the gasket and the mating surface of pan. Dry to tack. Put together and climb under the car with it. Locate two bolts.
One can "pull" the tacked in place gasket a bit to align bolt holes even in place. The adhesive has a little 'give.'
Sort of a "contact cement" with a pedigree.
Joe K
Spray one side of the gasket and the mating surface of pan. Dry to tack. Put together and climb under the car with it. Locate two bolts.
One can "pull" the tacked in place gasket a bit to align bolt holes even in place. The adhesive has a little 'give.'
Sort of a "contact cement" with a pedigree.
Joe K
chap52
Well-known member
Terry NJ
Well-known member
Dropping the oil pan is one job I hate, with a passion! Why does the engine have sludge after ten years? You're using non detergent oil, Why? Try draining out a quart or two of the old oil and replacing it with ATF a day or two before before your oil change. Run it and get it hot and drain it out. A lot of sludge will go out with it. Replace with detergent oil.
If you can't resist the temptation to pull the pan, don't forget the oil screen on the oil pump! These things clog up with sludge and deprive the full amount of oil to the pump, hence the bearings. I've been thinking of making 4 studs, one for each corner of the pan to hang the gasket on. I don't know if these would help or not, but if the gasket is a problem this is one possible solution. Good Luck with it!
Terry
If you can't resist the temptation to pull the pan, don't forget the oil screen on the oil pump! These things clog up with sludge and deprive the full amount of oil to the pump, hence the bearings. I've been thinking of making 4 studs, one for each corner of the pan to hang the gasket on. I don't know if these would help or not, but if the gasket is a problem this is one possible solution. Good Luck with it!
Terry
Jeff P. / MN
Senior Member
I have used Terry’s method (studs on the pan) and it has really helped me. Great idea! This was passed along to me by a real veteran of Model A’s, he worked on these cars for his living. Wish he was still here to advise me.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
Recommend cleaning out the Valve Chamber. Do not forget to clean out the Oil Pump screen too with the Pan dropped.
You can purchase plastic guide pins instead of using the metal ones in the article. The plastic ones additionally guide/hold the pan while you are putting the bolts in, and are easily removed for putting in the last bolts. Make sure to add some non-permanent thread sealant to the bolts to prevent leaks at the bolts , there a few bolt holes that are not blind and are open to oil. I prefer to use an anaerobic non-hardening sealant on the gasket surfaces, using my finger to minimally skim coat the gasket, to prevent the sealant from squishing into the inside of the pan, possibly breaking off and circulating in the oil. Another reason for using this type of sealant is that it remains a little flexible, makes it easier next time to remove the pan and cleaning off the sealant/old gasket. Do not over tighten the Pan bolts if using a cork gasket, can deform the gasket and also warp the pan.
When installing the Rope seal in the Pan, do not cut it flush on its ends flush with the pan. Leave some sticking up. The purpose is that when the pan is installed this will cause the rope seal to be pressed into its groove providing for proper sealing.
And definitely remember to use the Oil pump bolt to hold the oil pump in the block, otherwise it drops into the pan when you remove it. If you forget it may startle you. Do not substitute a plain bolt, a plain bolt can strip the block hole, and may crack the block, use the special pipe thread tool. Do not overtighen the bolt/screw against the distributor, can damage the distributor when over tightened. You also use this bolt to hold the distributor up when installing the pan.
A lot of this may be in the article above, but these are some highlights from difficulties I encountered trying how to do this correctly the 1st time.
Here is a link to oil pan installation guides, many of the venders sell these.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...TALLATION-GUIDES?fromCategory=SearchByKeyword
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
I install a few temporary studs in the block to help align the gasket and pan for installation . I seal the gasket to the block with no sealer on the oil pan side of the gasket . I make Real sure that the tabs at the rear of the pan gasket fits up to the rear main bearing cap properly and install the oil pan . When done in this manner , the next time that the oil pan needs to be removed , the gasket should remain attached to the engine block and not need to be replaced . If the tabs at the rear of the oil pan gaskets are cut off in a short cut attempt to first install the gaskets to the oil pan instead of the engine block , leaks will usually occur at each side of the rear main bearing cap . Just a thought .
katy
Well-known member
I prefer not to use any gasket sealer unless absolutely necessary. I tie the gasket to the oil pan w/light thread in 3 or 4 places and I use 2 or 3 studs for alignment as others suggested. I usually leave the thread in place but it can be cut and removed after a few bolts are in.
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
I replace it, I do not know if they are reusable. Hopefully someone else can answer that question.
Clean the shaft, grease the shaft surface slightly. When the rope seal is in place I like to also put a small amount of grease on it to prevent it from burning from the shaft rotating against it. Before they came out with the current rope seals, used to soak the rope in oil for a day before installing. I do not know what they are using for the rope seal today, but it does not absorb much if any oil.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
I would also replace the front rope seal . I don't cut the ones that I use . Iit is a tight fit that doesn't leak . The tight fit is what makes me prefer to use temporary metal studs . I make the studs longer than the original oil pan bolts . The thickness of the rope seal makes it difficult to reach the threads with original length bolts . I slightly draw the pan up with nuts on the temporary metal studs . Don't try drawing it up too much in any one place or you risk wringing off something . I wouldn't try torqueing the oil pan bolts to twenty foot pounds like one book recommends . I think that some of the rope seals now offered are Teflon coated and it is no longer recommended to soak them like we use to .
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
I also saw that, wonder if they were using a paper gasket, 20 Lbs is way too much for a cork seal, distends the gasket and might warp the pan .
Railcarmover
BANNED
Ten years,80k miles and the pan is sludged up? do it right,pull the engine,clean it,set oil clearances rod and main bearings, lap valves and re ring it..If you caught it early enough you can get off cheap,a few shims,a set of rings and gaskets,some lapping compound.Back in the old days that was called an 'overhaul'..and it gave an engine a fresh life.
Right now your planning on laying under the car pulling the pan,cleaning it and having a leak when your done,and having the same old tired engine you started with.Take a little more time.do it right.
Right now your planning on laying under the car pulling the pan,cleaning it and having a leak when your done,and having the same old tired engine you started with.Take a little more time.do it right.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
I agree, too tight oil pan bolts can squeeze a cork gasket out the sides . I don't like cork gaskets because they are too fragile . I use the thick paper gasket and tighten by feel .