Oil Pan Dipstick Mount Repair

GOSFAST

Well-known member
Is there some sort of repair for the dipstick mounting fixture that's riveted to the oil pans??

I'm looking for feedback only, not actually a way to do the repair. I'm asking because we have a 100% method for a fix leaving the OEM bracket in place (after the fix).

It would attach to the pan with some 1/4-28 pan head cap screws and be removable at later time WITHOUT the pan's removal! This would allow for a gasket change if ever needed.

The only single drawback is it will require welding it to the inside of the pan, this means obviously the pan has to on the bench.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. If anyone is interested in the fix (assuming we do go forward with it) we will have a few ready in a couple weeks. It will come with a pre-drilled/tapped "plate", a gasket, and the attaching screws. I have photos of the setup but can't upload them at the moment! Will do in the near future.
 
Is there some sort of repair for the dipstick mounting fixture that's riveted to the oil pans??

I'm looking for feedback only, not actually a way to do the repair. I'm asking because we have a 100% method for a fix leaving the OEM bracket in place (after the fix).

It would attach to the pan with some 1/4-28 pan head cap screws and be removable at later time WITHOUT the pan's removal! This would allow for a gasket change if ever needed.

The only single drawback is it will require welding it to the inside of the pan, this means obviously the pan has to on the bench.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. If anyone is interested in the fix (assuming we do go forward with it) we will have a few ready in a couple weeks. It will come with a pre-drilled/tapped "plate", a gasket, and the attaching screws. I have photos of the setup but can't upload them at the moment! Will do in the near future.


Does this involve the supply of a replacement boss for dipstick tube to screw into?
I have an engine at present which has worn thread in the boss as well as loose securing rivets. Plan on removing oil pan for a permanent repair as engine is on a stand. Interested for sure. The tapped plate will be required to be welded on inside of oil pan? Yes.
Phil NZ.
 
I did mine with a 10/32 threaded plate, tack welded to the inside of the pan. But to fix without welding or pan removal--
What I would consider is using 10/32 or 10/24 Rivnuts with the appropriate gasket to allow for the thickness of the Rivnut.
Drawback--The installer would need a tool to set the nut in the sheet metal pan
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i brought this up again to show a few shots of what actually happens after 60 or so years to the pan and the OEM gaskets, they are very brittle when opened up. Most have a number of cracks in the gaskets.

When we figured out how to make the actual bracket for inside the pan we felt more comfortable having it fully support the outer dipstick bracket. Plus we wanted to weld it a bit further away from where the gasket rests so there wouldn't be any distortion in that area!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a few shots, showing the entire process.
 

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I took an engine to a Ready Strip shop about 30 years ago and didn't even think about the soft metal boss in the pan. When I picked the parts up, the rivets for the boss were all that was left sticking out of the pan. I used MS21042L3 lock nuts on the inside and washer head AN525 screws on the outside to attach the replacement boss. Having it removable makes it easier to replace the gasket plus the installation controls the torque up so stuff doesn't deform that boss or the gasket much. With a modern sealant on the gasket, it will easily last till the next overhaul. Ford likely had a big foot pedal operated rivet press to squeeze them originally. It likely did them all at once and had a limiter so it could only go so far.
 
To hold the bottom plate permanently in correct position relative to the outer dip stick holder.
 
This is the kit we sell for this. I always use loctite on the threads. Has the appearance of being riveted like original. I don’t see the need in having to replace that gasket often.

IMG_5012.jpg


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That´s the way i do it to...looks nice an only need to change it is when restoring the pan.
I just peen it a bit backing it with a piece of copper to avoid damaging the head.
 
i brought this up again to show a few shots of what actually happens after 60 or so years to the pan and the OEM gaskets, they are very brittle when opened up. Most have a number of cracks in the gaskets.

When we figured out how to make the actual bracket for inside the pan we felt more comfortable having it fully support the outer dipstick bracket. Plus we wanted to weld it a bit further away from where the gasket rests so there wouldn't be any distortion in that area!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a few shots, showing the entire process.

Gary, any problems with crank clearance? Looks like a great idea!! No more leaks!!
 
I’ll buy one of those kits Gary, whenever they’re ready for prime time.


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You mean PERMANENTLY ??, like in FOREVER??:)


Oh my goodness! Looks to me like the welding holds the bracket inside the pan
PERMANENTLY (like in forever) in position so that the screws can be removed and replaced without the internal bracket falling into the oil pan. Seems like a good idea to me as you don't have to worry about any nuts or rivets coming loose. Locktite is your friend.
 
Oh my goodness! Looks to me like the welding holds the bracket inside the pan
PERMANENTLY (like in forever) in position so that the screws can be removed and replaced without the internal bracket falling into the oil pan. Seems like a good idea to me as you don't have to worry about any nuts or rivets coming loose. Locktite is your friend.
I know and understand that the welding holds the plate inside the pan but why so much welding?
Take a look at post #3 above.
 
I know and understand that the welding holds the plate inside the pan but why so much welding?
Take a look at post #3 above.

When I gave my friend the pan to weld there was no directions to the amount OR location of the welds, this was simply his choice. He is a "high-end" all-around fabricator so I let him call the shot on this one.

When we begin to make these available the amount of welding would be up to the welder, simple. It doesn't take much to keep the plate in position.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. To Joe above, I don't believe there will be any clearance issues with the internals but it will get checked. Your pan will be done identical to the one in the photo above! My friend has your pan for the straps also, however he will be gone for a few weeks?
 
I know and understand that the welding holds the plate inside the pan but why so much welding?
Take a look at post #3 above.


Those 2 short MIG weld beads on the outside of the "V" plate are not a lot of welding, IMO.
Much better than just a wimpy tack weld. Better safe than sorry.
 
When I gave my friend the pan to weld there was no directions to the amount OR location of the welds, this was simply his choice. He is a "high-end" all-around fabricator so I let him call the shot on this one.

When we begin to make these available the amount of welding would be up to the welder, simple. It doesn't take much to keep the plate in position.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. To Joe above, I don't believe there will be any clearance issues with the internals but it will get checked. Your pan will be done identical to the one in the photo above! My friend has your pan for the straps also, however he will be gone for a few weeks?

Thank you Gary!! No more leaky dipstick tube!!
 
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