oil pan bolt torque

1

1961

Member
I'm looking for the correct torque for my 1961 292ci Y block oil pan bolts. I torqued the last one to factory spec (factory manual) of 12 ft. lbs. It squirted out the side in pieces like a banana. It was a FELPRO and I used Permatex Ultra Gray sealant. I started at 5 lbs. then 10 lbs. then finished at 12 lbs. Bad gasket? Thank you for your time, help and any comments.
 
Make sure the oil pan rails (sealing area) are flat around the bolt holes. Today's silicone based sealants are slippery and this can happen when you tighten up a pan or valve cover that isn't completely flat. You might try using 3M trim adhesive and glue the gasket to the block and use a thin film of an anaerobic sealer on the pan side. If you can find a tube of Hylomar sealant it works best
 
Before doing anything, insure that the oil pan gasket flange is straight and true. I don't use a torque wrench for the oil pan bolts. A speed handle is what I use and simply pull the bolts down just enough that I can see the gasket start to deform ever so slightly. I prefer the 'Best Gasket' oil pan gasket and simply use white grease on those rather than the 'Copper Coat' that I use on the timing cover gasket. Ted Eaton.
 
i cant add much to what ted said most everyone goes by feel on small bolts.i got a surprise anyone would torque a base bolt.
 
I just did the pan on a 350 Chevy, same principle. I used some silicone RTV under the side rail gaskets and glued them to the block and let them set up. Dropped in the neoprene end seals, backed that up with a wipe of silicone RTV. Let that set up. I also put a few studs without heads along the rails into the block so the gaskets stay put.

Add a little RTV to where the rails and end seals meet, then drop the pan on. Take my time and get the pan bolts started, watch the corners of the rails/end seals. Everything hand tight, then torque it up to 6 inch-lbs. I find something else to do, come back to it after an hour or so, torque to 9 inch-lbs. Same thing, let it sit for an hour. Then the final torque. The composite gaskets I used will compress and then relax.

I have about 500 miles on the build and the pan is dry.
 
do not confuse inch. lbs. with foot lbs. big difference people often confuse the 2.if you notice bob 396 used the correct in. lb.
 
Yeah, 12 ft-lbs on a 1/4-20 would break it. I never used to torque them before my current build. I borrowed a nice pair of torque wrenches, mine grew legs some years back.
 
I like trim cement on the pan, then install the gasket and let it set up. After it is set, spray on some WD40. That way, the gasket will seal, but it can be reused if you need to get in there. Snug up the bolts, then again after a few hundred miles. The WD40 will make the gasket bulge at the bolt hole. Stop tightening when the gasket just begins to come out.
 
Thanks to everyone for the comments. Sounds like 'less' is 'more' in this case. I'm just going to sneak up on it and play it safe. Thanks again, 1961.
 
After it is up and running, check it in a couple of weeks for leaks. I gave mine a very minor tweak after I has some miles on the new engine.
 
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