Like Paul says, it could be residual pooling in the flywheel and housing. Park the caron an incline for a couple of days with the front down. Always use the stick to add oil and keep the level between the F and L marks preferably half way between. Never just add oil by amount indiscriminately. These tricks should work. If it doesn't, you have a worse problem that will probably need the pan removed to fix. I feel like some builders use old or incorrect babbitt mixes that won't stand up to the rigors of our engines. There are also many balances that need to be watched to build a good, long lasting engine.
]Another thing almost builders DON'T do is, burnish bearings because many don't believe it helps or don't know how. All my babbitt engines get burnished on a machine so the babbitt is done correctly then run as a complete engine in a stand before it leaves my shop.[/QUOTE
James, you brought me into this one! The word BURNISH came into use, when the engine industry started getting down on the equipment builders that were selling that kind of crap. The builders went to a nicer word, of Burnishing, rather what they called it previously, as Burning in, what that process really done was burn bearings out. You tightened the caps down, and powered the shaft, until the babbitt got soft around the shaft, smoked, and smeared the babbitt to supposedly to align the shaft, and by the way, that babbitt that got smeared, is now worthless, for a bearing surface, as it will be crumbly, and most of the time, not stuck to the rest of the bearing, like before. What it did was most times was move the bearing alignment that shouldn't have been moved. When you align bore an engine, it should be as straight as it can be made, and if it isn't, get rid of the junk, and get something that does bore straight. That also goes for who ever grinds your cranks, if it isn't straight, get another grinder man. That also goes for that slop some are using, as it does the same thing as buring up, only be sides it removes the finish from the crank, and will channel oil, and if it is that abrasive to cut babbitt, there is no way in H , that it won't be embeded in the babbitt, as that is what babbitt does with foreign particles. If you cant hit the hole size dead on, you are much better off scrapping 2 to 4 tenths off the high spots. Herm.