Oil leak from drain plug

Bill S

Senior Member
On a 1950 Ford. I have a oil leak from the drain plug. I have used a crush washer. Still leaked. I also annealed a washer. Did not fix the problem. Do not know if the problem is the plug or the pan. Any ideas how I can fix the problem?
 
Wrap a piece of soft 1/16th in dia. solder around the drain plug just underneath the hex head where plug contacts the oil pan and then tighten it up. The idea is that the solder will crush and seal at same time. Or make a leather washer out of an old belt and use it to serve the same purpose. Must use leather. Add some non hardening gasket sealant or shellac to washer for extra good seal.
 
Assuming you're running the engine, it may be one of those 'sneaky leaks ' . Actually coming from someplace else with oil wicking/adhering to the pan's surface on down to the drain plug. Thoroughly clean a wide area around the drain plug so it's relatively dry. Then see if these surface areas get wet before the plug starts dripping. Jack E/NJ
 
Use a bit of pipe tape on the last few threads. If that bothers you could try a felt/cork gasket with your crush washer. Think some did use a cork. You can buy cork gasket sheets from napa and make them.


Maybe first; Indian head should stay soft for a longtime or anti-seize. won't hurt anything. Old cars really leak a tad of oil, whether we admit it or not. A drop or too is fine, a quart is not good.
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Wrap a piece of soft 1/16th in dia. solder around the drain plug just underneath the hex head where plug contacts the oil pan and then tighten it up. The idea is that the solder will crush and seal at same time. Or make a leather washer out of an old belt and use it to serve the same purpose. Must use leather. Add some non hardening gasket sealant or shellac to washer for extra good seal.

I wanted to write like that. This should help.
 
Never heard of a leather gasket. Ever. New to me but... what do I know. Whatever works, works. cork works well. Threads are probably worn a bit.
 
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As Tinker suggests I would try applying “never seize” to the threads and see if that doesn’t help. The petcock drain on my radiator had an annoying water leak around the threads and I applied “never seize” to the threaded shaft which stopped the leak completely.
 
I would wrap it with some Teflon tape in the right direction. Pull it tight when wrapping. Do it on your next oil change. If it still leaks, go to an oversize self taping plug available at Napa for sure.
 
Wrap a piece of soft 1/16th in dia. solder around the drain plug just underneath the hex head where plug contacts the oil pan and then tighten it up. The idea is that the solder will crush and seal at same time. Or make a leather washer out of an old belt and use it to serve the same purpose. Must use leather. Add some non hardening gasket sealant or shellac to washer for extra good seal.



Hi 19Fordy
I've got a similar problem with a 59A with the big plug ( approx. 1 1/2 in ) and have tried several compound gaskets and even put some permatex on the last attempt to stop the leak. With permatex better but still seaping.Your solder idea sounds good and I'll give that a try next oil change, but I'm curious about the leather gasket comment.
Does a leather home made gasket work any differently that the compound gaskets I have been using from Mac's. Can you give me your experience with leather. It sounds like a real simple fix, but I don't want to try it only to have to drain oil out again to try the next fix. Would like to weigh the solder vs leather idea so please give me your guidance as to which to try first. Thanks for any help offered
Pete
 
Another thing to try is plating the plug, to add some material on the threads and create a tighter fit. Like nickel or copy cad....

JB
 
Can't give any other suggestions here with respect to the OP's drain plug issue, most have been covered above.

But for anyone interested in a real nice fix for these drain plugs if the engine is being built and/or the pan is off the unit we just devised a really nice method for a permanent repair and one that will eliminate all those extra large drain plugs.

Our fix is accomplished with a "bushing" welded on the outside where those OEM plugs sit. The bushing fits the existing threaded hole and is simply welded around the outer edge to the pan.

This is an all new area for us and it only happened this week due to necessity. I have 2 custimers who want to get rid of that large plug. The fix allows the use of a typical Chevy drain plug, 1/2-20 thread and 9/16" socket size.

(Add photo) Here's a shot of the finished welded plug mod on the 8BA pan, this one uses the same thread size, a 1/2-20 Chevy, but with a magnetic plug and a 3/4" wrench size. It is the same plugs found on the Moroso race pans for the G.M. line.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I'm in the process this week of running off a few extra bushings for stock. We will most likely do all the pans with this method from here on forward! Here's a shot of the very first one waiting to be welded. It's just a real neat setup and pretty much guaranteed leak-proof for the most part.
 

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Many newer drain plugs use a plastic/neophrene washer for sealing. Maybe you can find one for the big Ford size.
 
Seems to me some place back in time I read that the washers were made of lead. So solder may be the thing. Make a ring of solder and solder the ends together.
 
Not to discourage creativity. Never a lead ring for stock cars. Copper crush yes for most all. Napa sells bulk gasket material. Cork will weather gas and other. decent fix anyway. Never-seize is some great stuff. Never had too much problem here though....


If we are talking about the same thing.
 
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