Gold Digger
Well-known member
I read about shocks filled with geliscern and not to mix with atv or hydraulic jack oil. What if you don't know what's in there. What will it hurt to mix? Wish there was a drain plug on them.
Oil for oem shocks
- Thread starter Gold Digger
- Start date
Patrick L.
Well-known member
Glycerin wasn't used very long.
Most use hydraulic oil of differing weights. That usually depends on the ride they want or how bad the shocks are worn.
The oil can be drained and re-filled if you are worried about it.
Most use hydraulic oil of differing weights. That usually depends on the ride they want or how bad the shocks are worn.
The oil can be drained and re-filled if you are worried about it.
Jim Brierley
Well-known member
I had a '54 Olds that had shocks that leaked. I would put STP in them as it leaked more slowly. It also stiffened them up a bunch. You could mix oil and STP, and see what it does.
Brad in Germany
Well-known member
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
So oil is what should be used.
The weight of the oil is dependent on the wear of the shock. Very slightly worn shocks do not perform anywhere close to spec with original weight oil. You need to take the shocks off and put them in a vice and check their operation. Good shocks should take like 15 seconds for a 6 lb weight at a certain distance. Slightly worn shocks take like 5 seconds with original type oil.
That all being said. A shock will be working good enough if with the original arm it is very hard to move by hand in one direction and a bit easier the other way.
Yes, I have expermimented some with known very good but slightly worn shocks.
The weight of the oil is dependent on the wear of the shock. Very slightly worn shocks do not perform anywhere close to spec with original weight oil. You need to take the shocks off and put them in a vice and check their operation. Good shocks should take like 15 seconds for a 6 lb weight at a certain distance. Slightly worn shocks take like 5 seconds with original type oil.
That all being said. A shock will be working good enough if with the original arm it is very hard to move by hand in one direction and a bit easier the other way.
Yes, I have expermimented some with known very good but slightly worn shocks.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Glycerin, castor oil, and mineral oil were all used by Ford/Houdaille. Mixing any of them is no good. The mineral oil as described in Houdaille and Ford information was never defined as to type and viscosity. Glycerin was always what Ford fell back on over the Who-Die years. It remained the same viscosity through most temperature ranges the cars were exposed to and it would last a fair amount of time considering the average life of an automobile.
Worn Houdaille shocks will likely no longer function well with glycerin or castor oil. Most folks use gear oil or higher viscosity hydraulic oil in the ones that have side play leakage. The weight arm drop test was how all rotary action shocks were tested and adjusted. The one used on the stabilizer bars of the old Bell 47 helicopters were no exception. They used MIL-H-5606 hydraulic oil but they were constantly serviced and maintained while the Bell 47 with stabilizer bar was in common use.
Worn Houdaille shocks will likely no longer function well with glycerin or castor oil. Most folks use gear oil or higher viscosity hydraulic oil in the ones that have side play leakage. The weight arm drop test was how all rotary action shocks were tested and adjusted. The one used on the stabilizer bars of the old Bell 47 helicopters were no exception. They used MIL-H-5606 hydraulic oil but they were constantly serviced and maintained while the Bell 47 with stabilizer bar was in common use.
Colonial coupe
Member
A friend recommended atf, he's been using it for years.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
ATF is fine, its just light. Its 7.5-10 weight range.
Most use at least a 30 weight.
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Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
No, ATF is too thin for shocks with small amounts of wear.
I have tried it.
I have tried it.