Oil for model a+ t

Dino does not become oil, plants do. So that being so, I use palm oil in mine but Olive oil in the winter might be good too! :) LOL
10-30, 10-40, 30 all are good as long as they are detergent.
 
I use cheap and cheerfull 20/50 multigrade from the supermarket as long as it is SAE rated . I change the oil when it becomes opaque on the dipstick this is normally around 1500/2000 miles . When I have dropped the pan for a general health check everything is nice and clean also the valve chest . Modern oils are vastly superior to the oils of 90 years ago . I keep my engines clean internally and would not use straight oil in an unknown engine .

John in rainy cool Suffolk County England .
 
For the A, I simply go to Walmart and grab whatever is cheapest. I save the good stuff $$ for my newer higher performance vehicles. I change it once a year, since I only drive her about 1k miles a year, and the change occurs right before putting Elvira away for her winter's sleep. That way, no acids in the oil eating her guts while she sleeps. A new filter always goes along with an oil change.

But, you do whatever you want, I'm not saying you are wrong...

When I have her on the lift changing oil, I grease/oil the snot out of everything I can find, and check for stuff falling off. Then I drop her down and check the battery acid level, and put her to bed. (Then, someone decides we need one more tour, and spoils the whole deal.)

NOTE:
It's also a good idea to look her ( the A) over real good and make a list of anything she needs and give it to my boss, er, eh, wife. She will drag that list out now and then and nag me until I perform the tasks. Hopefully she succeeds before a total failure of something on the list, but then I'm pretty lazy...
 
I recommend trying Marvel Classic Motor oil from the bunch that makes Marvel Mystery Oil. They make a good product and are a nice bunch of people.
Their classic motor oil is 10W-40 and is high in zinc.
 
It appears there is a wide range of opinions. I wonder if it is all that important after all they all stop the pistons sticking to the cylinder walls. We are not dealing with a sophisticated high performance engine. Is it a storm in a tea cup? I do agree with Corley and the KISS principle and the A engine was designed and built on that very principle.
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I use cheap 20W-50 multigrade SAE oil and everything is fine. I added an oil filter kit to the right side of the engine and I change the oil every 2000 mls.
 
Dino does not become oil, plants do.
Click to expand...
If that's so, howcum in school they taught us that crude was formed from dinosaurs? Didn't the dinosaurs eat the plants?
 
As long as this has turned into another oil thread, I have a theory, please comment.


When I revived my truck it had sat for 50 years, and found that it had inches of sludge in it. Somewhere in the past (40s/50s?) I believe some or all oil companies added paraffin (wax) to the oil to make motors run quiet/smooth.


I suspect that the average Joe did not drop the oil pan and open the valve access panel for clean out. As long as the motor seem quiet and the pan did not leak excessively, they just kept changing the oil.


Perhaps another major source of the gooey/waxy consistency of sludge found in these cases?
 
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