Oil flow in a factory bypass system?

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and how it was 30 years ago when the previous owner bought it...
 

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I worked in a boat yard for 4 years in the 1990's.... And back then I never owned a boat!
The appeal of this one to me is that it's old, very cool, and importantly, small.
It's a bit like the AC Corbra of the sea in the 1930's and that appeals to me.
 
I have two, black and blue. They are different in shape underneath and the black on has the inlet on the back and the blue one has it on the side... Can someone date the two types at all?
 

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Boy, I wish you luck with that. The back row at the storage yard at the marina I kept my boat at thirty years ago was filled with boats like that, some with a few boards replaced.

I admire your ambition.
 
tubman said:
Boy, I wish you luck with that. The back row at the storage yard at the marina I kept my boat at thirty years ago was filled with boats like that, some with a few boards replaced.

I admire your ambition.
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The bottom of the hull is sound and the shape it still there for the sides and deck so that's good. Just time consuming, taking one upright off, remaking it, refitting it, move onto the next... Luckily I quite unjoy the mindless tedium.

It's going to be done with as many Artdeco details as I think look good so it should be quite a thing when finished.... Cream bottom, dark blue sides, varnished mahogany top and stern... Lots of one off cast chrome details and trims on the corners of the woodwork... Funfunfun. If you look up a Garwood speedster you will get an idea of the layout and size of the boat.
 
I admire your ambition too, and have a lot of respect for wood craftsmen. Have you seen the thread on here about building a woody wagon. GBSISSON off the coast off Washington state. I like the black filter housing with drain plug! Makes life less messy when you change the filter. I can’t help with dating them..... Mark
 
actual dates of the cans i cant do, but there are different mounting holes. 8ba's will have smaller bolt holes and mount in they're own bosses on the head, and the earlier have big holes for mounting with the head bolts, or studs
 
gavinnz said:
Should look good in the boat... Painted cream with new decals, brass fittings and copper lines. I can mount it on the hull bulkhead as long as it has the correct fall for the oil to return to the sump. I assume it is just gravity return?
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Don't even think about using copper lines. And a bulkhead mount will also require flex lines. An external oil line failure is the quickest way to convert your fresh engine into a shiny new anchor.
 
ford38v8 said:
Don't even think about using copper lines. And a bulkhead mount will also require flex lines. An external oil line failure is the quickest way to convert your fresh engine into a shiny new anchor.
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Cooper lines run properly, correctly aneeled to make them soft ( ie not work hardened) without tension on them and with the needed anti vibration coils put in the lines are fine. It was done all the time on early vehicles.

But I take your point. Not done correctly they could be a disaster.
 
If your oil filter is connected to the motor, it's the same as hard fuel lines. Motor shakes together. Only lines from the body or frame to engine can be suspect. Reason for the flex line between the tank and fuel pump.



Oh course all lines need to be considered. Fuel to tank, brake lines on frame. etc etc... well not brake lines for you. :)

.
 
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gavinnz said:
Cooper lines run properly, correctly aneeled to make them soft ( ie not work hardened) without tension on them and with the needed anti vibration coils put in the lines are fine. It was done all the time on early vehicles.

But I take your point. Not done correctly they could be a disaster.
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As you profess to know everything there is to know about copper tubing, I'll not remind you of the several factors you haven't considered. And I'll challenge you to identify the early vehicles you believe to have used copper tubing all the time. :rolleyes:
 
ford38v8 said:
As you profess to know everything there is to know about copper tubing, I'll not remind you of the several factors you haven't considered. And I'll challenge you to identify the early vehicles you believe to have used copper tubing all the time. :rolleyes:
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Well that's not helpful. My 1915 fiat for a start. Not a rubber tube on the thing. Take a look at a Rolls Royce silver Ghost engine.

I never said I know everything.... Always learning.

But saying a blanket "no copper lines" is like saying "don't drive a car".... If you can't do it right, then don't do it.
 
If you have a line from the the bulkhead to engine, It would be smart to run some sort of rubber line. If you want to stay vintage maybe a rr ghost umbrella hose or seal. Maybe it's fine.

Not sure anyone said never use a straight copper line throughout. I could be wrong. Most of the time I am. I wouldn't on anything not connected to the engine without a indeterminate.


Sometimes these things get a bit out of line, no fault to poster or responded party. Water off a ducks back.
 
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OK, I don't know the first thing about those examples, but I do know that Ford used copper plated rolled steel fuel lines, a product that is still being manufactured today. As you are still learning, you should know that copper tubing will stress harden over a period of time from simply straightening the annealed coil; Regardless of anti-vibration coils, vibration still occurs; And... heat/cool cycles of engine oil will do the deed much quicker.
 
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