Oil Filters

Ford part M-6880-B50. You can buy it lots of places for $130-$150. Kinda expensive for the minor convenience, in my opinion.
 
Can you post the supplier and part number? I agree that a right angle would likely create less mess, and I'm interested.

Thanks.

I bought mine at Speedwaymotors.com
Part# M-6880-A50 90 degree oil filter adapter. Their website currently lists it at $89.99. I believe that’s what I paid a few years ago.
 
The 90° adaptor available these days looks kind of funky to me on a Model A as they are made of billet aluminum anodized blue. Altho they can be painted green, the billet doesn't do it for me. Try to find one of the original cast aluminum ones at a Pick-a-part or similar.

50669090963_2b513ea2c3_z.jpg
 
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The 90° adaptor available these days looks kind of funky yo me on a Model A as the are made of blue anodized billit aluminum. There to find one of the original cast aluminum ones at a Pick-a-part or similar.

50669090963_2b513ea2c3_z.jpg

I have the same one as yours Y-Blockhead. Raw aluminum painted to match the engine. It looks like that’s the one they’re currently selling.
 
The A50 is the one Y-Blockhead has, it has been discontinued and replaced by the B50. You can still find the A50 on some sites, but supplies will eventually run out.
 
The 90° adaptor available these days looks kind of funky to me on a Model A as they are made of billet aluminum anodized blue. Altho they can be painted green, the billet doesn't do it for me. Try to find one of the original cast aluminum ones at a Pick-a-part or similar.

50669090963_2b513ea2c3_z.jpg

I do like the look of that.
 
Ford part M-6880-B50. You can buy it lots of places for $130-$150. Kinda expensive for the minor convenience, in my opinion.

That's true. But spilled oil can be a real mess on clothes, skin, the car, and the floor. I keep cardboard on my garage floor and wear vinyl gloves when changing oil, but oil has a sneaky way of getting in places I never dreamed. Heaven forbid that I track that into the house.
 
Is there any data to show the FL1A filter won't work with the right angle adapters ?
Bratton's and perhaps others list the PH8A which cross references to the Motorcraft FL1A and the WiX 51515.
 
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I have been using a WIX 51085 with my right angle adapter for years.

I just switched to a ACDelco GM Original Equipment UPF48R because its a little bit thinner and fits better were the oil tube is.

I also like it because its black and I can remove the tag.
 
The 90° adaptor available these days looks kind of funky to me on a Model A as they are made of billet aluminum anodized blue. Altho they can be painted green, the billet doesn't do it for me. Try to find one of the original cast aluminum ones at a Pick-a-part or similar.

50669090963_2b513ea2c3_z.jpg

Yblock that is a real nice looking engine bay.

Are you running a damper with that vbelt?
 
Yblock that is a real nice looking engine bay.

Are you running a damper with that vbelt?

Thank you. Yes, I have a Murray damper. I am running the segmented because the Murray Damper is thicker than stock and I can't get the regular v-belt between the damper and the crossmember. Plus "they say" the segmented belt cuts down on vibrations.

I run segmented belts on all my power tools (table saw, disc/belt sander, etc.)
 
I run the 90 degree one also. I picked mine up at the local pick-n-pull wrecking yard.
They come on Ford V-6 motors. I think I paid like $10-$15 for it.
I also painted it engine color as well as the filter.
 
Please brain storm on this. Doesn’t the top of the oil pump assembly have a built in pressure relief by way of the spring that holds the oil pump/distributor assembly together by spring pressure. I recall that if oil pressure exceeds the spring pressure it will compress the spring a small amount and let oil flow into the valve chamber. This would be a safety mechanism if the oil passage going to the front oil chamber is blocked. Remember in 1929 oil was not what it is now and Ford engineers anticipated this and made this bypass, remember at that time the reputation of the durability car was a big selling point and at this point in history people had a hard time feeding their children let alone buying oil in the Great Depression. I put a Mikes filter on my 29 coupe but I am taking it off, I believe that during initial startup of the engine the filter set starves the valve chamber of oil for enough time to cause esscess wear over time. The oil system was designed as a low pressure splash and drain system, I think Fords engineers were a lot smarter than most of us including me. Really oil is cheap, we don’t drive them that much(use synthetic), with most of us if we can afford and love our machine we can change oil every 500 miles. I do not recommend an oil filter, right Des?
 
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I see no reason not to use an oil filter. The modern multigrade oils are low viscosity when cold and as soon as the engine is running, oil is pumped into the cylinder head chamber.

The only thing to remember about filter assembly is that it must be filled with oil beforehand.
 

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OK, let me ask this. If an oil filter setup is a good idea, then why have I never heard an engine shop that specializes in A engines ever suggest one? I had a 1956 Chevy when I was a kid, and that oil filter option was not elected when the original owner bought the car in 1956. Lots of lawn movers are splash-n-splatter oil systems, and don't have a filter.

Not trying to be difficult, just asking a question, so be nice.
 
OK, let me ask this. If an oil filter setup is a good idea, then why have I never heard an engine shop that specializes in A engines ever suggest one?

My understanding is that the oil filter is mostly useful to extend oil change intervals. If you want to change your oil less frequently than every 500 miles, you can install a filter and the oil will last a lot longer. That's really it. So rebuilders don't weigh in on it because it's a tradeoff of maintenance intervals, not a requirement to operate the engine.
 
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