Oil filters on flatheads

tubman said:
One way to do it is with a Frantz or similar type add-on filter. My dad sold them in the fifties and sixties and always added one to each new Oldsmobile he bought. Each one came with two tags. The first was like a regular old style "oil change tag" you used to stick on the door jamb. The second was the same format, but made of blotting paper and was divided up into several segments. You were to touch your dipstick into the corresponding spot every 200 miles after installing the Frantz filter. The oil would be absorbed by the blotting paper, and would show how "dirty" it was. It was amazing to watch the spots get lighter and lighter with each 200 miles that passed. It made me a believer.
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If I didn't want something that would fit inside the original canister (out of sight), I would probably have gone with the Frantz system.
The toilet paper replacement filters are much cheaper.
 
Hi,
I am new to the flat-head world and have already learned a ton. I have a 36 Ford with a 49-53 Merc Flathead V8 with no oil filter. I would like to put on a filter and then maybe start running conventional oil instead of straight 30W. I have seen a couple of filters for sale lately, and from what I am understanding so far I would want to run it as a partial system, Can anybody tell me how this would hook up to my engine? I know it mounts to the head bolts but have no idea how the oil gets to the filter and then back to the pan. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks...Dave
 
I would suggest that you find a stock 8BA setup. (It will bolt directly to the head unless you have an early '49 engine.) The "Partial Full Flow" system will require drilling and tapping of the block that is difficult and risky on an engine in a car. There should be a port with a 1/8" pipe plug on the right rear of the engine that is the outlet to the filter. There should also be a return port on the oil pan with a similar plug. I would expect that someone has removed the stock filter from your engine at some earlier time.

My considered opinion is that, for the way these cars are currently used, the stock Ford bypass filter system is superior to a full flow conversion. Typically, these cars are used sparingly on paved roads and have frequent oil changes. The stock bypass filter will remove much smaller particles than a full flow unit and provide better overall cleaning of the oil. If you are going to do several thousand miles a month on dirt roads, then you should probably consider pulling the engine and converting to a complete full flow system.

One last thing. I would not use non-detergent oil under any circumstances. If the engine has been run with non-detergent oil, the sludge is probably so built up that the detergent oil won't break anything loose. But at least it won't build up any more sludge.
 
Have you checked with NAPA or any other well stocked parts store?


Bubsyouruncle said:
I managed to screw up the internal threads on the brass block T-fitting for my factory-installed bypass filter on a '47 v-8 engine.

Can anyone help me? I would like to start using it again.
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davids2toys said:
Hi,
I am new to the flat-head world and have already learned a ton. I have a 36 Ford with a 49-53 Merc Flathead V8 with no oil filter. I would like to put on a filter and then maybe start running conventional oil instead of straight 30W. I have seen a couple of filters for sale lately, and from what I am understanding so far I would want to run it as a partial system, Can anybody tell me how this would hook up to my engine? I know it mounts to the head bolts but have no idea how the oil gets to the filter and then back to the pan. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks...Dave
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As stated, look for a stock setup for '50- '53 Ford/Mercury along with the necessary oil restrictor fitting.
They come up on EBAY from time to time and can sometimes be found at the Southbury swap meet as well as others.
This is an example of the components needed minus the tubing and fittings that are readily available locally.
Look at post #32 in this string to see a basic example of how it is mounted.


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As far as I have learned, I understand the oil filter was an accessory, not standard equipment. I do understand how the partial is the better way to go for my usage. I also do not want to be modifying the engine or oil pump to do this mod. I see the restrictor in the pic, can you tell me where these parts go and what needs to get modded.
 
tubman said:
I would suggest that you find a stock 8BA setup. (It will bolt directly to the head unless you have an early '49 engine.) The "Partial Full Flow" system will require drilling and tapping of the block that is difficult and risky on an engine in a car. There should be a port with a 1/8" pipe plug on the right rear of the engine that is the outlet to the filter. There should also be a return port on the oil pan with a similar plug. I would expect that someone has removed the stock filter from your engine at some earlier time.

My considered opinion is that, for the way these cars are currently used, the stock Ford bypass filter system is superior to a full flow conversion. Typically, these cars are used sparingly on paved roads and have frequent oil changes. The stock bypass filter will remove much smaller particles than a full flow unit and provide better overall cleaning of the oil. If you are going to do several thousand miles a month on dirt roads, then you should probably consider pulling the engine and converting to a complete full flow system.

One last thing. I would not use non-detergent oil under any circumstances. If the engine has been run with non-detergent oil, the sludge is probably so built up that the detergent oil won't break anything loose. But at least it won't build up any more sludge.
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So if there is an OUT and an IN, why am I drilling the block?
 
davids2toys said:
As far as I have learned, I understand the oil filter was an accessory, not standard equipment. I do understand how the partial is the better way to go for my usage. I also do not want to be modifying the engine or oil pump to do this mod. I see the restrictor in the pic, can you tell me where these parts go and what needs to get modded.
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davids2toys said:
that whole Southbury thing has been done for a few years now
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Shows the last time I went to Southbury. that was one of the better shows/swap meets.
As I stated, look at post #32 to see where the Tubing connects to the input side at the rear of the block. the return goes into an existing hole along the pan rail.
There is NO drilling or modifying required.

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WOW, I totally missed that post! Showing my age again,LOL
OK, I see it. This is on the drivers side then, one of the posters said it was on the right side so I assumed passenger side. just went and looked at what I have. The upper hole in the rear has got a sender screwed into it and the lower one is there right above the oil pan. If I don't have to any modifying, that is the route I would rather take. I saw a cartridge for sale with 2 filters for 45.00. So all I would need is the 2 lines with fittings and this restrictor? I am assuming the restrictor goes into the cartridge somewhere?
 
Is this oil restrictor something that an auto parts store might have? I ust went on ebay and found nothing. What is the purpose on the restrictor?
 
The original type part is old stock only as far as I know. If you want to build up something similar modern turbo oil restrictor come in a similar size.
 
OK, did some research and understand the purpose of the restrictor. It is confusing where it goes though. Some say it goes into a tee in the back of the block and the pressure sender goes into this tee also, and then some say it needs to go to the side of the filter. I don't see that it would matter as long as it is restricting the oil coming into the filter


i just found the ad. "1949-53 Ford oil filters and canister $45". So will this Ford filter work on the Merc engine? If the restrictor needs to screw into the filter, is the ford different than the Merc?
 
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davids2toys said:
OK, did some research and understand the purpose of the restrictor. It is confusing where it goes though. Some say it goes into a tee in the back of the block and the pressure sender goes into this tee also, and then some say it needs to go to the side of the filter. I don't see that it would matter as long as it is restricting the oil coming into the filter


i just found the ad. "1949-53 Ford oil filters and canister $45". So will this Ford filter work on the Merc engine? If the restrictor needs to screw into the filter, is the ford different than the Merc?
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The restictor can go anywhere in the line that feeds the filter, so long as it does not interfere with the operation of the pressure sender.
Suggest you re- read my post #45 You are looking for '50- '53 Ford or Mercury, they are interchangeable.
The '49 filters used a different mounting system. (head bolts )
So if you have '53 heads as you say, you don't want a '49 setup.
 
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Thank you, that is what I was thinking also about the restrictor.


I wonder why the seller is stating 49-53? I will have to ask him when we talk. So I would think you can buy different filter inserts for this. I would think for this type of partial filter you would run a real good filter(filter out the tiniest debris) for it. I see your is called a bypass filter, I assume this is what I am talking about. That Amsoil looks like a spin on? Are you running a spin on set up the same way you are telling me to hook up this cartridge setup?
 
All filters are the same size...only difference is stacked or folded filtermedia.
I buy them bulk in plastic bags from one of my heavy parts supplier intended for industrial engines half price for a good quality filter...best value for my money so far.
 
Just a bit of information. There is a slight difference between Ford and Mercury restrictors. I found this out when I put the '51 Merc engine in my '51 Ford. The "rounded" one pictured in Post 45 is the same as on my Mercury engine. The one on the Ford was completely square, with no rounded edges at all. They are functionally the same, but the lines attach slightly differently and you would be better served keeping the lines with filter/restrictor they came on as they are quite difficult to bend correctly.
 
If you want it to be 100% correct it matters, if you just want it to be functional it doesn't matter.
 
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