Oil filter adaptor

[Bob from Northport]

Are the spin on oil filter adaptors worth the effort. I have seen alot of comments pro and con. Does Dennis Carpenter make the best ones, or is there a better one that does not leak.

 

[RKS.PA]

Bob, I put one on my 312 ci Y block and it leaked. Not sure if it was originally from Carpenter. Seems like the gasket and the adapter plate don't mesh well enough to make a good seal.

Tried another gasket I had on hand and tightened it more than I thought I should have and I finally stopped the leak.

To answer your original question, I think the spin on is a better option than the original canister on these engines, but I still use the original canister on my 59 AB...trying to keep that on as original as possible.

 

[KULTULZ]

Unless you can find a NOS FORD KIT (B7A 6882-A), I would leave it alone as the aftermarket kits will not seal correctly.

It's a PIA to change the cartridge style but at least you don't have to worry about leakage (if good quality cartridge kit is used).

 

[miker98038]

It’s been some years since I had a leaking adapter and my memory is fuzzy on the details. One thing was some were stamped wrong (“TOP” was actually the bottom), and the other was to buy a canister filter and use that gasket between the adapter and block. I’m pretty sure a search at yblocksforever will turn that up with Ted Eaton’s comments.

 

[dmsfrr]

I had two of the spin-on kits blow out their rubber gaskets within the first couple miles of use.
Replaced them with a machined aluminum version that has a captive O-ring in the back side. Working fine after 3000+ miles. They were listed on ebay, made in the USA, but that seller no longer offers them.
If you look closely at the ones listed on ebay now, they all seem to be made in china.

 

[paul2748]

No,matter which one you finally end up with, both will spill oil on removal because they are not installed straight up.



I had bad luck with two of the conversion kits ( both were non-Ford) that I installed myself and went back to the canister and never had an issue after that.


However, I had one engine built and the builder installed a kit and I never had a leak from it. Maybe it was my fault on the other two, but I followed all the directions.


I hear from some people that real problem with the aftermarket kits is the gasket between the block and the adapter - most use a rubber/neoprene gasket when a fiber type gasket should be used.

 

[RKS.PA]

Paul, you are spot on! The gasket needs to be fiber.

 

[KULTULZ]

Let me try this again -

Unless you can find a NOS FORD KIT (B7A 6882-A), I would leave it alone as the aftermarket kits will not seal correctly.

It's a PIA to change the cartridge style but at least you don't have to worry about leakage (if good quality cartridge kit is used).

The diaphram used in the aftermarket kits are of a thinner gauge metal and distorts when you torque the adapter nut down. That is what causes the leaks, not necessarily the gasket (unless possibly it is a box store special).

Oil Filter Diaphram - ECG 66891-A - Incl w Spin-On Adapt Kit - B7A 6882-A - Modified

The correct gasket is EAA 6838-A and if not available from FORD, is still sold through their tractor dealers. Or possibly BEST GASKET.

You guys are beating yourselves to death for no reason ...

 

[1930artdeco]

K-I have the exact same adapter for my filter (minus the two holes). It is an older adapter as it is made of some decently thick steel. Do I need the holes and how do I tell if the 'top' is actually TOP and not a misprinted one?

Mike

 

[paul2748]

Regardless where it says top, the holes should be at the top. If no holes, anywhere could be the top if it is the same all the way around. Personally, never seen an adapter w/o the holes. Not sure how the holes function, but there must be a reason for them. Maybe some one smarter than me knows.


I had an adapter with the misplaced "TOP" but since I saw the holes were in the wrong place I figured "TOP" was wrong.

K-I have the exact same adapter for my filter (minus the two holes). It is an older adapter as it is made of some decently thick steel. Do I need the holes and how do I tell if the 'top' is actually TOP and not a misprinted one?

Mike

 

[dmsfrr]

Regardless where it says top, the holes should be at the top. If no holes, anywhere could be the top if it is the same all the way around. Personally, never seen an adapter w/o the holes. Not sure how the holes function, but there must be a reason for them. ...

Aren't the holes and/or slot the oil inlet to the filter from the oil pump?
I believe they are at the 'top' to hold more oil inside the filter when the engine isn't running,
providing oil slightly sooner on start-up. Less drain-back when parked.

 

[KULTULZ]

Aren't the holes and/or slot the oil inlet to the filter from the oil pump?

I believe they are at the 'top' to hold more oil inside the filter when the engine isn't running, providing oil slightly sooner on start-up. Less drain-back when parked.

Correct. The plate holds oil in the galley for wet start-up same as a drain-back valve in a spin-on.

I ran the PN on EvilBay and are still available. (NOS).

Too bad the aluminum adapter is not available.

This plate has been modified (extra holes drilled) to allow more flow into the filter.

 

[dmsfrr]

I was looking on ebay to see what was available. This one says it's Made in the US and sold by Shoebox Central, it should be more reliable than the off-shore versions.
It also includes a Wix brand oil filter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162923551615?hash=item25ef001b7f:g:kuYAAOSwVmteVUOi

.

 

[KULTULZ]

That's an aftermarket kit. It has the thin diaphram.

I don't know how they get away with copyright infringement -

 

[1930artdeco]

Ok, so I found and ordered the gasket that Kutulz mentioned and of course it is rubber so it will eventually leak. At least that has been my experience with rubber gasket valve covers. I was going to copy it into cork. Anyone have experience with these gaskets leaking/not leaking, should I just copy it into cork and then seal it up before I ad the plate?

Mike

 

[paul2748]

I wouldn't use a cork gasket. The original was a fibre type gasket and they usually came with the filter for a canister. You may have to buy a new canister unit to get the proper gasket. Check before you buy.



Another thing - Most kits come with a specific torque setting. Exceeding this setting may result in the adapter being distorted , and then leaking.

Ok, so I found and ordered the gasket that Kutulz mentioned and of course it is rubber so it will eventually leak. At least that has been my experience with rubber gasket valve covers. I was going to copy it into cork. Anyone have experience with these gaskets leaking/not leaking, should I just copy it into cork and then seal it up before I ad the plate?

Mike

 

[1930artdeco]

Thanks. I just always used cork on valve cover gaskets and they have never leaked. Neoprene on the other hand always did. This adapter wasn’t made in China-at least I didn’t see any made in China markings and the gauge of steel indicate USA origins. I hope.