Oil change

twilder

twilder

Member
I have had a '30 coupe for going on three years now. When I purchased it, the previous owner stated that it was using 30wND oil, and that I should continue. I want to start gradually introducing detergent oil on my next oil changes, Adding one quart over time until I'm using all detergent. Would this be a good idea or not? I know the oil thing has been beaten to death.
 
I don't think 1 qt at a time will do anything. Why not just go ahead and use detergent.
Depending on how long this monster has been using non-detergent you may consider dropping and cleaning the pan.
 
Patrick L. said:
I don't think 1 qt at a time will do anything. Why not just go ahead and use detergent.
Depending on how long this monster has been using non-detergent you may consider dropping and cleaning the pan.
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Very good advice. I would for sure drop the pan.
Wayne
 
i would not use any detergent period until the pan and valve chamber are cleaned out...
until you clean things out just continue with non detergent and youll save the risk of doing engine damage down the road
 
I'd leave it alone. What are you driving 500-750 miles a year? Many of us are driving 5000 miles over 10 years.
I'm lazy and not a fix what ain't broke kinda guy. Change the oil as often as Ford suggest.
Not inclined to start what detergent oil really is...perhaps not the best name for it.
 
I would drop the pan and the side cover, hopefully there's not much build up with the few miles most people put on the Model A (I put high miles on ours). Years ago we always started a new motor on non-detergent oil for the first few oil changes to seat the rings. Now, with much better rings most engine builders don't recommend doing that.
 
I agree with the others. Using detergent oil first will tend to loosen the sludge that has accumulated over the years which you don't want to do. Drop the pan and remove the valve chamber cover and then thoroughly clean out the sludge. As a caution, take care to not let any of the crud go down and clog up the valve chamber oil return holes feeding the bearings. In case you have never taken the pan off before, one qt of oil should be poured down the distributor shaft hole to fill the pan tray to prevent a dry start on the first startup.

Glen
 
At the next oil change you could bend a coat hanger 90* and stick it up the drain hole and spin it around so it scrapes the bottom of the pan. Carefully lift it out and see if it picked up any sludge.

In 1970 I bought a 1952 Studebaker Land Cruiser with a 232 overhead V8 that had used non-detergent oil. You couldn't see the rockers for all the build up. I scraped it all out as best I could using a wood popcycle stick, then used detergent oil. The detergent oil slowly cleaned up the remaining mess. Never had a problem and that was a very strong engine.

How many miles has been put on this engine using non-detergent oil?

You start a heated argument with your wife, then you'll be glad to be out in the garage dropping your oil pan.:D
 
Thanks for all the advice. I think I'm gonna go with what Willie Krash said earlier, until I drop the pan. Car only driven about 2-300 miles a year, Everything running and sounds good for now so I think I'll just continue with the ND oil for now
 
Mitch//pa said:
if you reread my post i suggested that also GEEZ
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And I was agreeing with you as well, Mitch. (it's beginning to be a habit)

While talking about it I often wondered if sludge wasn't a by- product of leaded gas or at least contributed to it. I'm mindful that give enough time oil will begin to solidify. When lead was removed oil would stay honey colored thru an oil change. I spent my first couple of years as 'hippie helper' scraping pans with a putty knife. It seemed once lead went away so did the sludge. Also I'm mindful that technology was/is advancing.
 
Willie,
lead was phased out in 1975 and i have seen many sludged motors even now so i am not sure of what role lead played.. i attribute it to non detergent back in the day and lack of maintenance since detergent oil has been used. a bad or no thermostat also can contribute to sludge, i am sure you know all this
i am talikng modern cars here mainly
 
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Thanks Mitch. I moved back to the auto industry in 1977 but not motor work.
I really didn't know so I asked. I do remember 50 and 60's car so full of sludge it was like clay. I made my observation upon oil color. Also to the point in smaller towns many cars spent their life never getting to 180° and we quickly learned carbon is everywhere. Yes detergent oils was a game changer. I do recall motors that had regular oil changes to be a lot cleaner. My old man would change the oil every five years rather it need it or not, back then.
Mike.
 
FWIW:

No doubt above replies are based on true & actual experiences accompanied by different variables under different driving, mileage, & climatic conditions.

Here is just one (1) of my Model A experiences:

I bought a Town Sedan, owned for 30 years by car collectors , who said they stored this car in heated storage in New York & reported that they only put about 200 miles on it in 30 years, using "only" non-detergent oil.

Not only was the bottom side of the camshaft badly pitted from rust caused by lack of use, lack of oil & moisture condensation; but, immediately after acquiring same, when I tried to drain the oil, nothing came out.

Stuck my finger through the thick sludge, & clean oil came out ....... removed oil pan & valve cover & had enough chicken manure looking crud to fertilize a half acre cabbage patch.

After thoroughly cleaning everything inside, replenished engine with fresh detergent oil.

In my opinion, "clean" oil gives one peace of mind; is cheaper than paying for new Babbitt, cylinder boring, providing new pistons & rings, & avoids later embarrassment of driving down the road smoking up the neighborhood & looking like a retarded senior idiot driving a smoking mosquito spray truck.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
FWIW:

No doubt above replies are based on true & actual experiences accompanied by different variables under different driving, mileage, & climatic conditions.

Here is just one (1) of my Model A experiences:

I bought a Town Sedan, owned for 30 years by car collectors , who said they stored this car in heated storage in New York & reported that they only put about 200 miles on it in 30 years, using "only" non-detergent oil.

Not only was the bottom side of the camshaft badly pitted from rust caused by lack of use, lack of oil & moisture condensation; but, immediately after acquiring same, when I tried to drain the oil, nothing came out.

Stuck my finger through the thick sludge, & clean oil came out ....... removed oil pan & valve cover & had enough chicken manure looking crud to fertilize a half acre cabbage patch.

After thoroughly cleaning everything inside, replenished engine with fresh detergent oil.

In my opinion, "clean" oil gives one peace of mind; is cheaper than paying for new Babbitt, cylinder boring, providing new pistons & rings, & avoids later embarrassment of driving down the road smoking up the neighborhood & looking like a retarded senior idiot driving a smoking mosquito spray truck.
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or a crop duster
 
Here is my two cents, whether or not you run detergent or non detergent, I suggest you open the engine (drop pan, and open the valve chamber) and clean it out. No harm can will come with it and you will have the knowledge that any gunk or sludge is gone and the engine is using the full amount of oil it was designed to to. The cleaning out can be done with the engine still in the car and the gasket are cheap, and it's an easy weekend job.
 
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