Oil change process

Clem Clement

Clem Clement

Well-known member
I have not run my restored 40MEREC since mid July. She waits for a oil change which I am fully remiss in doing. I'm in cardio rehab so my tin waits. The oil is dark

do I start it her and warm up the setting oil before draining out the oil; or drain it static? I do not have a filter.
 
You always want to drain the oil warm as it decreases viscosity and drains out better.


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Since the car has not been run for a long period of time, the old crappy oil has drained into the oil pan.
Starting it to warm it up just pumps that oil that has managed to drain out of any lubricated parts back into the system.
In your case it really does'nt matter if it drains better or quicker.
Just drain it cold and let it do so for as long as it takes to stop dripping.
 
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I understand the "garage floor" cardio experience. I drain it cold. As stated no need to wake up the sleeping crud. Take out the drain plug and let it drain overnight. Next day replace the filter and fil put in the new oil... Chap
 
Thanks. In 6 months the big lumps should be at the bottom. When I gain strength I'll do it. Interestingly the restorer painted the big plug. I'll have to figure out how to release it without messing up the paint.
Merry Christmas
 
A few times, I've drained them cold and then refilled with the cheapest oil I can find. Run the cheap oil for a warm up cycle and then drain that warm.

Once the cheap oil is drained, I refill with good stuff. Seems to catch the left overs from the cold drain.

Just another approach on how to do it
 
Tim Ayers said:
A few times, I've drained them cold and then refilled with the cheapest oil I can find. Run the cheap oil for a warm up cycle and then drain that warm.

Once the cheap oil is drained, I refill with good stuff. Seems to catch the left overs from the cold drain.

Just another approach on how to do it
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Agree with Tim, this is the approach I would take.
 
Clem Clement said:
Thanks. In 6 months the big lumps should be at the bottom. When I gain strength I'll do it. Interestingly the restorer painted the big plug. I'll have to figure out how to release it without messing up the paint.
Merry Christmas
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I would use something like an Exacto knife to cut around where the plug meets the pan.
 
Clem Clement said:
Thanks. In 6 months the big lumps should be at the bottom. When I gain strength I'll do it. Interestingly the restorer painted the big plug. I'll have to figure out how to release it without messing up the paint.
Merry Christmas
Click to expand...

Put masking tape on two sides and use a BIG crescent wrench - not a pair of Channel Locks like most tend to use. Or, maybe a big-*** socket. I have a crescent wrench the size of God - works well for that big ole' plug. No idea as to why Henry had to make it that way . . .
 
Tim Ayers said:
A few times, I've drained them cold and then refilled with the cheapest oil I can find. Run the cheap oil for a warm up cycle and then drain that warm.

Once the cheap oil is drained, I refill with good stuff. Seems to catch the left overs from the cold drain.

Just another approach on how to do it
Click to expand...
Not to say this is wrong, I would do this if it was sitting for years without starting. For six months it's probably not really necessary. With that said, if mine is pretty dirty, I will drain the pan ,wait for it to stop dripping and pour a half quart of new oil in the filler to push any left old oil out.


If you are using synthetic or blend, it's not a good idea to flush with mineral type oil.
 
solidaxle said:
Not to say this is wrong, I would do this if it was sitting for years without starting. For six months it's probably not really necessary. With that said, if mine is pretty dirty, I will drain the pan ,wait for it to stop dripping and pour a half quart of new oil in the filler to push any left old oil out.


If you are using synthetic or blend, it's not a good idea to flush with mineral type oil.
Click to expand...

Deleted comment
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Put masking tape on two sides and use a BIG crescent wrench - not a pair of Channel Locks like most tend to use. Or, maybe a big-*** socket. I have a crescent wrench the size of God - works well for that big ole' plug. No idea as to why Henry had to make it that way . . .
Click to expand...

It was the precursor to speedy lube. Fast drain times.
 
Just changed the 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee cold. What I learned: Too may years of "old school", where you wind up with hot oil running down you hands and arms. Now on to the "cold oil change" for the 53' Merc and my wifes 70 Cougar. Thanks guys for the lesson learned.
 
Tim Ayers said:
A few times, I've drained them cold and then refilled with the cheapest oil I can find. Run the cheap oil for a warm up cycle and then drain that warm.

Once the cheap oil is drained, I refill with good stuff. Seems to catch the left overs from the cold drain.
Click to expand...

What he said. When you consider what it protects, oil is cheap.
 
Does the idea of draining the warm old oil and then putting in a quart of kerosene
(without the engine running) help in draining out the old oil and sledge that may have accumulated?

Add fresh oil after kerosene has drained out. QUESTION: Will the residual kerosene harm the engine by doing this?
 
Old timers way back when would get hold of a customer's gummed up, neglected smoker. Drain the oil fill it with kero let it sit idling until the smoke quit (the rings now were free ) drain and fill with fresh oil. The neighbors loved it. NOT!

BTW Hydraulic Lifters ended such therapy.
 
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A few years ago in the early 50s when I was in High School I worked in a SERVICE STATION. Note service. Well we would flush engines. 1/2 oil and 1/2 kerosene and run the engine until good and warm. Drain the engine and put fresh oil in.
 
19Fordy said:
Does the idea of draining the warm old oil and then putting in a quart of kerosene
(without the engine running) help in draining out the old oil and sledge that may have accumulated?

Add fresh oil after kerosene has drained out. QUESTION: Will the residual kerosene harm the engine by doing this?
Click to expand...



Likely won't do any good. The kerosene will just make a beeline for the drain opening and be gone. To do any good, it has to slosh around in the engine awhile. And while many engines have been flushed (supposedly) with kerosene or Diesel fuel and survived, I don't want my engine's oil diluted with a non-lubricant!
 
Clem I bet your fine just draining the oil and doing a oil change. Better then not doing a oil change. If you didn't know the engine, then a pan drop.


Don't worry!


.
 
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