oil bath conversion

cvicky

Senior Member
i want to cut inside of breather and put paper filter
55 fairlane 272
anyone know which fram air filter fits
 
IMO, the oil-bath air cleaner is superior to a paper filter. Oil-bath system is less restrictive on air intake and will still allow air through even when there's lots of dirt in the oil. The paper filter will clog and restrict air flow even more as dirt enters the filter.
Only drawback to the oil-bath type is occasional cleaning and re-oiling can be messy unless you are set up for it. I used to know some folks who would keep a second identical oil-bath air-cleaner cleaned, covered in cellophane and ready to install while using the other one and swapping when the used one got dirty, so they could set the used one aside until they found a convenient time to clean it and store it for swapping back after the other one got dirty.
If the cleaning process involves wiping the exterior of the air-cleaner with solvent (gas or whatever), resulting in destroying the paint finish, then somebody has painted the wrong paint on it. Refinish it with the original FOMOCO Argent silver enamel and you will not have that problem again.
 
Whether you're talking about a two barrel or a four barrel air cleaner makes a big difference too. Both carbs were available on '55 272's.

Sal
 
I don't believe a 57-up air cleaner assembly will fit the Holley 4000 "Teapot." Oil-bath air cleaners are efficient, but it sounds like you prefer the convenience of a disposable paper element, which Ford used, beginning in 1957. A paper element is fine. When it's dirty, replace it.
 
I am restoring a 56 fairlane 2 door sedan, original oil bath reservoir has filter that can't be replaced....... can it be cleaned, has anyone done it or can I just keep using it like that since air particles fall to ground and rarely into carburetor. thanks for all input
 
I am restoring a 56 fairlane 2 door sedan, original oil bath reservoir has filter that can't be replaced....... can it be cleaned, has anyone done it...
Does it have a metallic mesh looking material inside the air cleaner lid?
If I remember correctly (it's been about 45 years) you can rinse them out with solvent then let it dry and re-oil. :confused:
Also drain out the old oil from the base, wash out the base with solvent, dry and refill it to the indicated level.
.
 
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The 1955-57 Thunderbird parts stores offer a reproduction chrome dress-up air cleaner assembly with a paper element that will fit 55-56 Teapot carburetors, but it isn't cheap.
 
When the oil is at the proper level some is sucked up into the mesh when it drains back it carries dirt with it so the mesh is pretty much self cleaning
 
dave55sedan is correct in saying that the oil filter is better than a paper filter. I little messy, but no big deal to service
 
I've heard that dust particles can still make it through, and that at times the oil droplets can get into the air intake. I've been on the fence about ditching my oil bath, what do you think?
 
I've heard that dust particles can still make it through, and that at times the oil droplets can get into the air intake. I've been on the fence about ditching my oil bath, what do you think?

PERSONALLY ... :D ...

I have no use for one unless the vehicle is a dedicated restoration. A paper element is going to allow some particulate through as will an oil bath but not an oil mist like you describe.

NASCAR outlawed them in the late fifties. Also think of the K&N oil impregnated filter that they say will not allow oil migration but FORD says not to use, period. That filter can and will cause MAF failure and throttle body contamination.

If a nice car maybe find another filter assy to modify and save the best one for either restoration or the next buyer?
 
I bought a replacement top cover as the original has a couple of dents in it. Is there a way to use the new cover with a paper filter with the existing base? This is for a 55 T-bird.
 
PERSONALLY ... :D ...

NASCAR outlawed them in the late fifties.

They are fire hazards on an automobile. That is why NASCAR outlawed them (and also why the manufacturers went to the dry type).

It is bad enough to run the roads with a H4000 with the fuel bowls above the carb venturies, but an oil bath ACL just adds another seat cover sucking situation if that oil ignites.

They are fine (IMO) for a dedicated restoration or a farm tractor if you don't pull wheel stands with it.
 
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