Oil again question

Don

Well-known member
We've just got a new Rural King store around here,,they have Castrol Gtx 15/40w for diesel for $10 -4 qts ..seems like I read on here that diesel oil had a different additive package than regular oil ..although it prob ally better than what was used in the day....just bought 5 qt container Castrol at WM for $16 ,is there much difference ,it didn't say it was for diesels tho????
 
The 15W40 motor oils for diesels have extra additives, such as zinc, that the diesels need. These same additives are also needed for engines with flat tappet cams (almost all the Fords here). Engine oils for current production engines don't contain these additives because they use roller cams, and the EPA made them take the additives out. Using an oil with these additives is a smart thing to do for the older engines with flat tappet cams, especially after rebuild.
 
I have always loved to read any threads on oil for antiques on The Barn. Many have spoke many have differed. My policy has always been drive a little change a lot. I never let on to my wife what it costs to run my junk.:D

Lately I've gone on to Google to search the zinc question. What I found is that higher zinc levels rose during the fifties. Then, when Detroit began offering more power through radical valve lifts and compression in the sixties, a new level of zinc was being run to protect the accelerated cam ramp speed of muscle cars.

Naturally with -(as has been mentioned right here on The Barn)- catalytic converters, and the resort to factory roller cams. Zinc had to be reduced.

My readings of oil labs indicate that today's oils ( snowflake / star )have enough zinc to compare with pre and post war (that's us) oils. They are also blended with lube factors that were unheard of then.

My studies on The Barn find that the rebuilders, who have decades of experience keeping early V8s rolling, use valve spring pressures that are cam lobe friendly. -(unless you run a racer motor: Drags, Bonneville, etc high spring pressure is not desirable)

In conclusion I ask that it be considered that zinc is not oil. It is a form of metal that was useful to prevent galling on our radical rides of yore. It kept a burnish on 'hot' high lift cams. The down side is that too much will actually break into the surface and create more wear.

Well, thanks for letting me ramble. (don't shoot the messenger) Thanks to The Barners that have educated me. Many names I could have, should have, would have, mentioned, (but my memory is becoming more far sighted) One that sticks, in my mind, the is the grin from 'Ol Ron 'Easy on the springs, the oils are good enough' or sumfin like dat:)
 
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I had to replace a cam in one of my engines with only 2500 miles on it the new cam from ISKY came with a warning to use only oil formulated for racing as it has sulfer and zink and all the other good stuff that the new formuler oils don"t have.this oil leaves a residual film on the metal after shut down. so when you restart the moving parts have some lubrication.the flat head engine relies on splash in the pan to lube the lifters this may not occur until some time after startup. So from now on it's Valvoline racing oil for all my older engines.
 
I have always loved to read any threads on oil for antiques on The Barn. Many have spoke many have differed. My policy has always been drive a little change a lot. I never let on to my wife what it costs to run my junk.:D

Lately I've gone on to Google to search the zinc question. What I found is that higher zinc levels rose during the fifties. Then, when Detroit began offering more power through radical valve lifts and compression in the sixties, a new level of zinc was being run to protect the accelerated cam ramp speed of muscle cars.

Naturally with -(as has been mentioned right here on The Barn)- catalytic converters, and the resort to factory roller cams. Zinc had to be reduced.

My readings of oil labs indicate that today's oils ( snowflake / star )have enough zinc to compare with pre and post war (that's us) oils. They are also blended with lube factors that were unheard of then.

My studies on The Barn find that the rebuilders, who have decades of experience keeping early V8s rolling, use valve spring pressures that are cam lobe friendly. -(unless you run a racer motor: Drags, Bonneville, etc high spring pressure is not desirable)

In conclusion I ask that it be considered that zinc is not oil. It is a form of metal that was useful to prevent galling on our radical rides of yore. It kept a burnish on 'hot' high lift cams. The down side is that too much will actually break into the surface and create more wear.

Well, thanks for letting me ramble. (don't shoot the messenger) Thanks to The Barners that have educated me. Many names I could have, should have, would have, mentioned, (but my memory is becoming more far sighted) One that sticks, in my mind, the is the grin from 'Ol Ron 'Easy on the springs, the oils are good enough' or sumfin like dat:)
Very well said indeed. Thank you.
 
Actually phosphorous is the anti wear agent. Present oils have a minimum of 600 ppm and a maximum of 800 ppm. Oils in the 50's generally had 800 ppm phosphorous, so present oils should be just fine for out flatheads. Besides the phosphorous has been blended in better formulas and there have also been other anti-wear agents blended in to todays oils.
 
Anyone have any thoughts on Detergent versus non detergent oils? I've been using 30W non-detergent as per the previous owner. I do change the oil and filter every spring. I don't put a lot of miles on the old girl.
 
It has been pretty much proven that almost any oil of 40 or 50 weight works
in these engines and longevity has been pretty good. With that said who knows
how much wear would be reduced with an oil that had superior lubrication
qualities? Oil has been improved years ago with additives that just about
eliminated sludge. Here is an oil that has been tested and the results published
on the attachment. I have a number of diesels and switched to Valvoline Blue
and since I have it on hand started using it in some of my old Fords. G.M.
 

Attachments

Anyone have any thoughts on Detergent versus non detergent oils? I've been using 30W non-detergent as per the previous owner. I do change the oil and filter every spring. I don't put a lot of miles on the old girl.

If you go to detergent oil all the stuff now stuck in the motor will come loose after a while and end up somewhere...hopefully in the pan.
I would stay with the nondetergent and frequent oilchanges...just my 2c.
 
All oils start with a stock base oil. There are 4 or more base grades. The better
end result quality comes with the best base oil used. G.M.
 
The latest question was as i understood it to convert to detergent in an engine ran for years with non detergent.
If the detergent additives do their job they will dissolve stuff stuck to the inside of the engine and they will either end up in the filter, pan or oiling system.
So for an engine driven very little i would stay with the non detergent until a good cleanup/overhaul is done.
For a fresh rebuild the choice of oil is based on other facts.
 
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