Odometer Can't Get Past 999.9

[51woodie]

The Odometer in my '46 was "stuck" with the last numbers at 999.9 miles, so I sent it out for repairs. It worked fine, but is now back at 999.9, and has stopped again. Shipping South and Customs fees are costly, so the question is; what can cause this to happen, and is this something a fairly handy fellow (me) can fix? Has anyone had one of these open and taken some pictures?

 

[Jack E/NJ]

I've used a hi-speed drill and dry spray lube on a few odometers./tripmeters to get the gears moving again. Jack E/NJ

 

[19Fordy]

I don't know anything about speedometers but. I suspect you wouldn't want to run your drill on high speed when working on it. Would probably cause damage.

 

[rotorwrench]

It doesn't take but a small piece of debris to stop the action of an odometer. Each wheel in turn operates the next with an interaction of an interrupter gear between all of the wheels to keep them from getting out of place and move in turn. I've had them stick when the number decals start to deteriorate and little bits fall off & get in the works. Crumbling paint from the indicator dial can also get in there. The problem is likely between the hundred wheel and the thousand wheel. Something in there with a number wheel or interrupter gear is not allowing it to advance. This is a point where all the number wheels, 1000 and below, have to turn at the same time to advance it to the 1000.0 scale. I hope this makes some sense. A person has to take a few of these apart to see how they interact and function. Designs vary but they are work pretty much the same way.

This link shows a basic design. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-driving-safety/safety-regulatory-devices/odometer1.htm

 

[cas3]

i have taken several apart, and never been completely successful with the odometer action. they seem to need to be "timed" when installing the stack of wheels. mine always would trigger the next wheel at 8, or 1 for example, and not trigger at 9 like it should. there is a pin on each wheel that triggers the next one each round, it should be easy to figger out, but i have not been able to understand the timing part of the equation. running with a drill for testing works fine. cant remember, did i run the drill in reverse?

 

[rotorwrench]

The position of the interupter gear and the keyway, slot, or pin that is there to trigger the movement of the follow on wheel.They do have to be timed together when reassembled. There is usually one tooth on the interupter gear that is longer or wider in a way to key the wheel change at the right time depending on the design. Not all are the same but they are all designed to work the same way. The link I posted has the little gears on the outside but the Stewart Warner speedometer design puts them in between the wheels where they can't be seen. This is what can make them vulnerable to jamming.