Observation on 10w30 motor oil

CBoz

Member
One person's observation, for what it's worth:

I had been running Castrol 30W since the engine was rebuilt (I live in NC so we don't have really cold weather here). This last time I went to Castol 10W30 and started noticing some oil spitting out the exhaust pipe, as if some oil was getting past the rings before the engine heated up. No major smoking or anything. Went back to 30W and the problem went away. I'm no expert here, but it seems to suggest to me that 10W30 weight doesn't act exactly like straight 30W.

6000 miles and going strong!...
 
Castrol 20/50 works best if you don't drive below 40 degrees. Thin oil in these engines result in oil consumption, low oil pressure, leaky water pump bushings on 37 to 48 engines and possibly more out the cotter pin hole below the clutch. An engine running over 180 will also use more oil. 30 years and 110,000 miles on my 39 convertible confirms these facts. I recently switched to Valvoline 20/40 in my diesels which looks like one of the best oils so a few weeks ago I put it in the 39. I didn't any noticeable change in oil pressure. Oil seems to be a personal choice so let's not open that debate again. If your happy with what worked for you stick with it. As I said before there is such a debate over the wide brands of oil I think maybe Weston cooking oil would work. G.M.
 
........... I'm no expert here, but it seems to suggest to me that 10W30 weight doesn't act exactly like straight 30W.

6000 miles and going strong!...



10W30 is intended to act differently than straight 30. When the oil/engine is cold it will be "thinner" and have the properties of 10 viscosity oil. As the engine/oil warm up it will gradually take on the properties of 30 oil. In cold climates 5W30 is commonly used, and since the advent of synthetic oils viscosity 0 (ie 0W30, etc.) has been readily available to accommodate cold weather start up and operation.
 
Oil seems to be a personal choice so let's not open that debate again. If your happy with what worked for you stick with it. As I said before there is such a debate over the wide brands of oil I think maybe Weston cooking oil would work. G.M.

I agree, let's not open that debate ;) Just sharing one man's / car's experience. I'm sure whatever we're throwing in the engine now is way, WAY better than what was available when they were new.

Reminds me, when I fill up I'm often asked if today's gas is good enough (we have stations here that offer gas without the ethanol blend, thank goodness). I laughed and said I think the 87 octane stuff is ok for low-compression engine.
 
Conventional 10w30 is 10wt oil with additives to get it to 30 when hot. Synthetic 10w30 is 30 wt oil with additives to get it to 10wt when cold.

Actually the thinner the oil the better as far as wear. Most wear is when the engine starts up.

Back in the 30s the gasoline octane was 75-80 straight run from the crude and thermally cracked stocks and maybe some lead. Today it is 87 or 93 nolead with platinum reformed high octane components, and catalytically or hydrocracked components as well that didn't exist back then.
 
The same is true of multi-weight gear oils compared to S.A.E. 90 or S.A.E. 140 . Different stuff .
One person's observation, for what it's worth:

I'm no expert here, but it seems to suggest to me that 10W30 weight doesn't act exactly like straight 30W.

6000 miles and going strong!...
 
Some laugh when I describe the effect of heat on oil but I stand by what my eyes see. With say 20/50 in the engine and the outside temperature over 60 pull the dip stick and count the time between drops as it drips off the stick. After an hour or so drive when the engine has been run to near 180 degrees coolant temperature pull the stick and count the drips again. See what you find. Grease or butter acts the same way??? G.M.
 
We learned about multi weight oil back in the dirt track days, it turned to milkshake. I run straight weight in my cars and diesels and have no problems.
 
In 1965 I bought a new Plymouth Barracuda, I was told by the dealership not to use 10W-30 oil or my warrantee would be voided. So I used straight 30W Havoline oil. Yet, since then I have used 10W-30 Havoline religously and my 1999 van has over 249,000 miles on it without an issue of any kind.
 
Some laugh when I describe the effect of heat on oil but I stand by what my eyes see. With say 20/50 in the engine and the outside temperature over 60 pull the dip stick and count the time between drops as it drips off the stick. After an hour or so drive when the engine has been run to near 180 degrees coolant temperature pull the stick and count the drips again. See what you find. Grease or butter acts the same way??? G.M.

I may not be grasping what you're actually getting at here.

Assuming we all understand that oil gets thinner the warmer it becomes then surely the oil is behaving the way engineers will predict. That being so, they will allow for the thinning in viscosity when designing an engine, and that engine is operating at a range of temperatures to which the suitability of the oil has been taken into account.

I am interested in the observation mrtexas makes about Synthetic oil, to my mind (and I am no expert on oil) the way David describes how synthetic oils work seems a very good idea. The question now arises, is the oil descibed by David suitable for our engines?
 
I stopped using multi-visconsity oil and just use straight weight after reading this:

Drawbacks of Viscosity Improving additives
Multi-grade motor oils perform a great service not being too thick at cold startup to prevent engine wear by providing more instantaneous oil flow to critical engine parts. However, there is a draw back. These additives shear back in high heat or during high shear force operation and break down causing some sludging. What's worse is once the additive begins to be depleted the motor oil no long resists thinning so now you have a thinner motor oil at 210 degrees. Your 10W-30 motor oil can easily become a 10W-20 or even a SAE 10 (10W-10) motor oil. I don't have to tell you why that is bad. The more VI additives the worse the problem which is why auto manufacturers decided to steer car owners away from motor oils loaded with VI additives like the 10W-40 and 20W-50 viscosities.
The less change a motor oil has from high to low temperatures gives it a high Viscosity Index. Synthetic motor oils that are made from Group IV (4) PAO base stocks have Viscosity Indexes of more than 150 because they are manufactured to be a lubricant and don't have the paraffin that causes the thickening as they cool. But petroleum based motor oils (Group I (1) & II (2)) usually have Viscosity Indexes of less than 140 because they tend to thicken more at the colder temperature due to the paraffin despite the addition of Viscosity Improving additives. The higher the Viscosity Index number the less thinning and thickening the motor oil has. In other words, high number good, low number bad. Low numbers thicken more as they cool and thin more hot. You see these Viscosity Index ratings posted on data sheets of motor oils provided by the manufacturer.
As already mentioned, VI improving additives can shear back under pressure and high heat conditions leaving the motor oil unable to protect the engine properly under high heat conditions and cause sludging. Also there is a limit to how much viscosity improving additives can be added without affecting the rest of the motor oil's chemistry. Auto manufacturers have moved away from some motor oils that require a lot of viscosity improving additives, like the 10W-40 and 20W-50 motor oils, to blends that require less viscosity additives like the 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 motor oils. Because stress loads on multi viscosity motor oils can also cause thinning many racers choose to use a straight weight petroleum racing motor oil or a PAO based Synthetic which do not have the VI additives. But only the Group IV (4) PAO based synthetics don't need VI additives. (Read more here: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/)
 
That is the way it has been in my tests. Take it out of the freezer its like 90 wgt. and heat it in a pan and like water. I have not tested synthetic oil yet. Marv
 
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