O-ring groove in flywheel housing

Ford-A-baquet

Ford-A-baquet

Junior Member
I tried to align the flywheel housing with the crank. Without
papergasket it`s easy to proceed the job, set from BILL BARLOW.
Shimming here, shimming there, after 30 min. the job is done.
Instead of using now the thick paper gasket I apply a string of
silicone sealant the whole length of the sealing surface, place
correct O - ring in the groove milled in the flywheel housing
opposite the rear cam bearing, six screws are properly tightened
to the correct torque. So the rear cam bearing is impossible to
start leaking.
Received the housing today and yes ---- I am happy
Someone already knows this improvement ???????
 

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Ford-A-baquet said:
I tried to align the flywheel housing with the crank. Without
papergasket it`s easy to proceed the job, set from BILL BARLOW.
Shimming here, shimming there, after 30 min. the job is done.
Instead of using now the thick paper gasket I apply a string of
silicone sealant the whole length of the sealing surface, place
correct O - ring in the groove milled in the flywheel housing
opposite the rear cam bearing, six screws are properly tightened
to the correct torque. So the rear cam bearing is impossible to
start leaking.
Received the housing today and yes ---- I am happy
Someone already knows this improvement ???????
Click to expand...


What 6 screws? :eek: A Model-A engine block only has 4. Did you machine the cylinder case for two additional bolts?

Also, even in a pressurized scenario (-which the Model-A block is not) the paper gasket does not leak. The bigger issue is the flywheel housing will warp over time. In my opinion, all that really needs to be machined is the entire housing surface, and not a counterbore for an O-ring..
 
my problem is the engine block which warp at the four lower threads for the bolts. The flywheel housing, which is not original from this car, is very straight. I never thought that this can happen. So the block was processed (honing, modern crank bearing shells, new rods) but without make even the rear flywheel housing flange. Here in germany is not much experience around, regarding As and also with my training as a car mechanic -- I can not know everything.

I will not take the block on the milling machine again. So I thought for a solution and this was the way.



@ BRENT in 10-uh-C -- please note attached image, the holes for the six bolts are numbered. The dowel pins are not possible to tighten with a torque wrench. Also in my opinion the paper gasket is the cause of warpy housings.
 

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Ford-A-baquet said:
BRENT in 10-uh-C -- please note attached image, the holes for the six bolts are numbered. The dowel pins are not possible to tighten with a torque wrench. Also in my opinion the paper gasket is the cause of warpy housings.
Click to expand...

Ok, I now see where you are coming from on the 6 bolts. The 'warpy housings' actually are caused by the driveline. The rear wheels/tires push the vehicle thru the rear axle housings and along the Torque Tube that pushed the entire vehicle from the connection on the back of the transmission. That pressure from the driveline is what causes the flywheel housing to warp.



Ford-A-baquet said:
my problem is the engine block which warp at the four lower threads for the bolts. The flywheel housing, which is not original from this car, is very straight. I never thought that this can happen. So the block was processed (honing, modern crank bearing shells, new rods) but without make even the rear flywheel housing flange. Here in germany is not much experience around, regarding As and also with my training as a car mechanic -- I can not know everything.

I will not take the block on the milling machine again. So I thought for a solution and this was the way.
Click to expand...

How did you determine those four lower thread bosses were warped? Did you indicate them off of the crankshaft using the flange as the datum??
 
the rear engine flange I checked with a straight edge, same as the housing flange. For me now, faced with the problem, the cause is already clear.
When I started to revice my baquet, I invited 3 - 4 Ford A owner, because i wanted to know their experience. I wanted to suck their brain. But more than a oil change or a brake lining swap they had never done. Many problems and solutions I get from the service bulletins -- like the additional oil hole for the rear cam bearing. But to become the experience of 30 years Ford A in one year is not possible. I limp off with a few things afterwards.
But if I find a cheap solution like the O-ring groove for a big problem like the warpy engine block, I am very happy.
I am with you ragarding the force which cause the warpy housings.
But in my opinion it`s also the tension near the thread and bolts.
Near there the papergasket is getting thinner and thinner. Between the bolts the papergasket gives more force against. So the housing is getting more wavy. It`s the same as with the top water outlet. Why is it recommended to put a match on the outside? Because the papergasket near the bolt become very thinn and the neck of the outlet flange gets space to bend.
 
My experience has been that it is important that all six mounting bolts be torqued down evenly with the two .010 shims installed under the top two mounting bolts in order to get a proper measurement. In order to do this you need to obtain two shorter bolts for the mounting bolts at the ears because you would not normally have the throttle linkage bolted up.

The .010 shims are there to compensate for the gasket thickness used at the lower four mounting bolts. The problem is all the suppliers provide gaskets that are much thinner than the shims. For this reason I obtain gasket material from an auto supplier that is about .015 thick and cut my own gaskets. The .015 gasket will crush down to about .010.

Tom Endy
 
There is a FAR easier solution to sealing the rear cam journal. It involves NO machining to the block OR bell housing.
Shorten the rear journal on the cam by .300. Make a cup plug to go in the block.
 
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