O-ring for universal joint seal...

The cork is a very poor material there...getting it to try to conform to the compound curve needed is nearly hopeless.
Originals were FELT which goes in to the curve easily and seals. Pretty sure Nacewicz sells the proper part.
Same felt as used on the Wright flyer, I think...
 
That may be true. The Wright brothers would have used it for grease seals in the bicycles they sold & serviced. Heavy felt material was used extensively until synthetic rubbers were developed. When it is saturated with oil or grease it forms a fair dust and water shield.

Kerby
 
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D-002​
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Felt seal for U-joint housing cap (have you ever tried to $ 4.50/ea
install a cork seal in a one-piece cap?); 1932-48​

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There's the listing from Nacewicz...just found out his catalog was finally online! Anyway, there's the right stuff.
 
It is not a very troublesome location. Even the cork that has become the general substitute there doesn't generally leak, though getting it into the groove prperly and keeping it there long enough to assemble can be annoying.
Grease isn't really right though, that gets rather looser slime than grease.
 
Rem said:
:)

All this is sealing against is grease from the U/J, isn't it? Plus maybe a drip or two from the trans or the rear end if parked on a steep hill?
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Grease, as in axle grease, is not a good lubricant for a u/j. Too thick, and the u/j creates cavities in the grease. It can be thinned down by mixing it with some oil or stp. I'm using Penrite steering gear lube in mine, but it's gonna make a hell of a mess when and if I have to remove the rear end.... :D:D
 
Ross in East Texas said:
Thanks for the heads up, I just bought one of them. Now to replace the "Cheesy" cork that I just put in. I never felt good about it in the first place!
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What is wrong with the cork?? I have used them for 50 years and they work OK. Back in the 50's when I was shelling out transmissions in a 46 Ford, I pulled the rear end then the transmission and repaired it, I just put the bell back with the original cork and it worked good!! Never had a problem.
 
The cork is a pain to install, because it cannot handle the twist well like the original material. Keeping an already installed cork is a good idea, as it has finally adjusted to the curve, but the original felt can be slithered right into place without back talk and then conforms fully as the shell is tightened down. I think the cork started appearing in the gasket kits during the 1960's...no idea why. Probably actually costs more than the original...
 
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