Nu-Rex wrench ???
- Thread starter wcmill
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alexiskai
Well-known member
Get calipers and measure the distance from the edge of the contact (the circular piece at the end of the points) to the edge of the rubbing block. Just eyeballing it, the distance looks different between the two. That could account for the problem.
Your bang on my friend! 6.90 to 7.50 thousands difference!
I put the old points on and everything lined up perfectly. Well, perfectly enough for a 90 year old car.
You can see here in the picture the difference.
You know I bought the points from Napa, said on the box made in China…..should have raised a red flag right there. You’d think that Ford V8 points from 57-74 wouldn’t be hard to duplicate……lesson learned.
As they said in Apollo 13 “you sir, are a steely eyed missile man”
.Awesome forum!!
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The Master Cylinder
Well-known member
You never mention, what are you setting you point gap at? I find the Nu-Rex wrench works best when the points are set at .020". Gap too wide will open sooner.
That's with original style points, I have never used 'modern' ~65 yo design points.
That's with original style points, I have never used 'modern' ~65 yo design points.
KR500
Senior Member
Just to add more confusion for you fellas. I had used a NuRex wrench and the wrench was totally off for where it used have been. Since I own at least two of the wrenchs I did a comparison of one wrench to another. One wrench had the slot off in orientation to the other. When I used the other wrench to set the timing the engine started right up. Here are a couple of pics of the two wrenches.
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KR500
Senior Member
In regard to the NuRex wrench having been formed 90 degrees off when placing possibly in the forming or bending jig, I informed Bob Gary of the issue and he immediately told me he would send out out a new wrench and to destroy the bad one. I can't say how many wrong formed wrenches could be out there or what suppliers may have gotten wrong formed wrenches. Never assume everything is correct till you can prove it to yourself.
Yes, Bob from Nu-Rex also asked me if I had an “older” incorrect wrench while we were troubleshooting my problem. We determined that I had the correct one.
Holding the wrench in your left hand up to your eye level, with the instructions facing you, the tab should be at the 5 O’clock position.
Holding the wrench in your left hand up to your eye level, with the instructions facing you, the tab should be at the 5 O’clock position.
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What was the part number on the box of new NAPA points?[/FONT][FONT="]
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[FONT="]Blue Streak FD8183V are the upper tier quality points by Standard Products. They are copper plated for better connectivity and have a rubbing block of different material (harder?), a felt wiper to help keep the cam lubricated.
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[FONT="]Blue Streak FD8183V are the upper tier quality points by Standard Products. They are copper plated for better connectivity and have a rubbing block of different material (harder?), a felt wiper to help keep the cam lubricated.
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I just solved this exact problem yesterday on an A I just acquired. It has modern points and when timed with the NuRex wrench it was way too advanced and when I it timed correctly the wrench was passed the #4 distributor post but would start missing when the lever was advanced on steering column because the rotor was too far away from the post in distributor cap. I found the previous owner converted an original upper plate to use the new points and put a wireless bottom plate on. The little brass peice that connects the points to the bottom plate was straight up and down so when the points were mounted with the connector lined up with the notch in upper plate it caused the points to be in the wrong location. I looked at a NuRex plate and that little connector has an offset in it to allow the points to line up correctly.
I hope this makes sense.
I hope this makes sense.
Once again, this is why I move the point cam with the wrench, but determine the position of points just opening with a test light. Then you can hold the cams position with the wrench as you tighten the screw. Counting on where the tang is on the wrench and where the handle is on the cap to set your timing to me is iffy at best.
[FONT="]What was the part number on the box of new NAPA points?[/FONT][FONT="]
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[FONT="]Blue Streak FD8183V are the upper tier quality points by Standard Products. They are copper plated for better connectivity and have a rubbing block of different material (harder?), a felt wiper to help keep the cam lubricated.
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The first incorrect set was the part number you listed……FD8183V, this was the set where the arm was approx .070” shorter then the correct one.
The one that I got from Napa was part number CS755SB which again was the right one.
I think it’s more likely that the FD8183V that I got was was a repro “made in China” set. Said so right on the box, even though it was labelled OEM. That same part number from a more reliable source would probably be just fine.
Anyway……was a good learning lesson!
Seems like most of the more experienced YouTube or other social media platform guys “Paul Shinn” “Jack Baum” etc, state that the most accurate way is to time with a test light.
The wrench is great to get you going quickly on the road or for helping others out.
alexiskai
Well-known member
My recommendation is that, for any given distributor, you check the wrench’s result against a light/ohmmeter. If it’s the same, you can then save time by using the wrench with that particular distributor in the future, unless you change something.