Nu-rex Timing wrench

Two thoughts:
- You're going to need a wrench to hold the cam anyways, so why not get one that'll pull double-duty?


- It does a pretty good job at setting timing; and with the manual spark advance on our cars, how exacting does timing have to be at idle anyways? As soon as you put the car into gear, you'll be changing the timing a whole lot more than any possible small error that this wrench might have.
 
It does a pretty good job, especially when you find yourself at the side of the road in need of checking or setting the timing on your car (or another car touring with you). But it's certainly not the only way to set the timing, and many experienced Model A guys pooh-pooh it as not necessary.

The design and the instructions they give you on how to use it help you get the slack out of the distributor drive shaft and drive gear mechanism as you set the timing. Not doing this is the most common reason people get their initial timing wrong, so it prevents the most common error made.

It's also a good choice for guys that are not comfortable with electrical stuff, like test lights and ohmmeters. There is really nothing to do except set the engine on TDC with the timing pin and then check/set the timing with the wrench. Almost foolproof. Almost.

If you want to see how good of a job it does, use the tool per the instructions, then check the results with a test light or meter, per normal shop timing procedure. I found it to set the timing just a few degrees after TDC, which is good enough for me. Fast and easy.

YMMV.
 
That has to be the most brilliant thing I've ever seen said on this forum.



I agree, I was also thinking around those lines too, but wanted a second opinion. With slop in the distributor, gears, advance linkage, fit of the distributor plastic body, etc. Did not think timing had to be a huge concerns if proper within a degree or 2 or 3. If out of adjust a small amount, the advance lever takes care of it.


Will get one and try it, cheap, and always like buying new toys.


Thanks.
 
Found it degrees off for 6.1 head to get enough retard and not worth the expense. Take a bulb and solder 2 pigtail alligator leads to it as a test lamp and connect leads to point arm and ground for fast / accurate timing.. The vendors offset cam wrench works well.
 
Found it degrees off for 6.1 head to get enough retard and not worth the expense. Take a bulb and solder 2 pigtail alligator leads to it as a test lamp and connect leads to point arm and ground for fast / accurate timing.. The vendors offset cam wrench works well.


Thanks for the info. Already ordered it, only a few bucks. Currently use meter with a buzzer across the points. Buzzes, stops buzzing when point open. Prefer this so I do not have to constantly check a bulb. Do the buzzer 1st, then check the adjust with the wrench. Figure if the Nu wrench is off, modify it's handle material - remove material or add(jb weld it) a washer at the check spot on handle at the check point.
 
About as accurate as you can get without a timing light. Close enough for a model A. Once running splitting hairs at idle retard is a moot point anyway. The wrench works just fine and is a lot easier.
 
I too concur that it is a good tool to use to set everything as correct as necessary for a model A. As others have stated, once started, you will be changing the spark so it is a moot point as to perhaps 2-3 degrees off from the absolute recommendations for the set point. I have used one for several years now on my car and others and when checked afterwards was quite accurate.
 
I don’t understand why the timing must be set so much. Everyone says I checked the timing———— blah blah blah. Once it’s set, it’s set. How can it change. Yes, I know the points as they change, affect timing, but once you reset the points, it’s back to where you set it originally. Slop doesn’t matter because the engine turning removes it.
 
Voice of experience here:
On a tour a couple years ago, one of our members had a failure with his dizzy. Not sure what the problem was, but he wound up just replacing the dizzy with a spare he had along. Then spent the next 30-45 minutes trying to time it correctly. Finally, I asked if anyone had one of the Nu-Rex tools. One magically appeared from the depths of stuff the several guys standing around had. Using the Nu-Rex tool, I was able to time his dizzy and get everyone back on the road in 5 minutes.

I now carry one in my tool bag all the time.
 
Voice of experience here:
On a tour a couple years ago, one of our members had a failure with his dizzy. Not sure what the problem was, but he wound up just replacing the dizzy with a spare he had along. Then spent the next 30-45 minutes trying to time it correctly. Finally, I asked if anyone had one of the Nu-Rex tools. One magically appeared from the depths of stuff the several guys standing around had. Using the Nu-Rex tool, I was able to time his dizzy and get everyone back on the road in 5 minutes.

I now carry one in my tool bag all the time.

Exactly why I carry one. I also found backing the up the New Rex setting with my timing light the NewRex setting was just fine and didn’t to use the timing light.
 
Two thoughts:
- with the manual spark advance on our cars, how exacting does timing have to be at idle anyways? As soon as you put the car into gear, you'll be changing the timing a whole lot more than any possible small error that this wrench might have.

I've been posting that for years and only got flack for it!!:confused: I still maintain some of us show our OCD when it comes to setting the timing.
 
Anybody have experience using this? Are they OK/worthwhile, or just good enough as a quick ballpark tool to get you up and running? http://www.nurex.com/timing
I found this to be a great tool when my distributor cam came loose while on a tour, my friend had one in his tool box..great tool, i now carry one in each 'A'..another great tool is the quick point gap setter..can be gotten at snyders part number a-12198..although a little pricey..i carry one in each 'A'..if your points close up on the road its a great tool for a quick fix.
 
I found this to be a great tool when my distributor cam came loose while on a tour, my friend had one in his tool box..great tool, i now carry one in each 'A'..another great tool is the quick point gap setter..can be gotten at snyders part number a-12198..although a little pricey..i carry one in each 'A'..if your points close up on the road its a great tool for a quick fix.

Easier tools you already have in your pocket. Business card is about .010" thick, Double fold it for .020" for your point gap. Good enough to get you home.

A dime is about .050", penny .060", nickel .075".

A plastic gift card is .030" so roughly spark plug gap.

Pretty much just need Ford tool kit, roll of electrical tape, pocket knife, and about 3 feet of steel wire and a bunch of Mac Guyver knowledge to utilize what you have on you.
 
Back in "the day" when paper matchbooks were plentiful, they were about .015" thick, just right for most points.
 
I found this to be a great tool when my distributor cam came loose while on a tour, my friend had one in his tool box..great tool, i now carry one in each 'A'..another great tool is the quick point gap setter..can be gotten at snyders part number a-12198..although a little pricey..i carry one in each 'A'..if your points close up on the road its a great tool for a quick fix.


Just looked up this tool on Snyder's and looked at the instructions. Without having the tool, could not make sense of the instructions. I got the impression it allows you to gap the points without need to rotate the motor to find the high spot on the cam? Yes? No?


If yes that would be handy on the road with a hot engine, hot day, or on a rainy day.
 
30 closed cab pickup..post no. 39...the answer is YES..Thats the point i was trying to make..really simple..you don't have to find the high on the cam. If you ever find you have to adjust the points on the open road, this really makes it nice.
 
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