Nu-Rex Timing Advance System

sorry folks I am new to this and still learning how to use the forum. if i would have searched my question i would have seen my question on the Ne-Rex timing system has been answered in detail with tons of great info! I will start searching my questions now before beating a dead horse and boring everyone to tears!
RR
 
I'm not sure what you're after but there are other ways to get centrifugal advance. Check them out too. I'm running the 12V FSI electronic ignition with centrifugal advance. Easy install, more forgiving than the original distributor, pulls all day long and has eliminated my skips and misses completely. I'll recommend it along with a Flame Thrower coil.
 
I have the Nu-Rex system on my coupe. I never had a problem with my distributor until I had to change points. For some unknown reason, I was never able to find the 'sweet' spot with the manual spark advance after I changed points. The car always drove like the spark was retarded and overheated above 40 mph. I have changed points many times before with no trouble in the past. Tried the Nu-Rex system 'just for kicks' and the problem went away. My coupe now drives like a different car. Great system!
 
Welcome to the fourm a lot of good info . I have it in my 31 speedster . I have no complaints. I am running duel stromburg 97s with high compression head . At time they are challenging. But no problem with the Nurex system .On my 30 roadster all stock .
 
The only issue I have had with the Nu-Rex Advancer is it advances a little too much when the engine is under load, such as going up a hill in a heavy car, my Town Sedan. But I have it set up so I can retard the timing with the stock lever as needed.

I have the Nu-Rex set so my timing is set at 28° all in. I'm running a Snyder's 5.5 head and Marvel Schebler carb, B cam.

Fun thing about the Nu-Rex, because the distributor looks stock, is showing a group how much "play" you have in your rotor and listening to some "ACE Mechanic" that knows nothing about my car explain what the problem is... :p :p
 
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I'm running a nu rex system on my coupe with a burtz block and a Charlie Yapp rocket 428 head, runs good. I'd advise to go with their timing kit also which includes the timing indicator. I've set mine for full advance at 26 degrees and because I still have the spark advance hooked up I can retard or advance to fine tune when starting or pulling a load.
 
I was thinking about adding this to my car now that I have the engine out and valve cover off, but I was under the impression that if you went with the Nu-Rex system, you had to ditch the spark rod.

Does the Nu-Rex system fight the spark rod, and wont it move the lever by itself when the system automatically advances the timing?

Regards
Bill
 
I was under the impression that if you went with the Nu-Rex system, you had to ditch the spark rod. Does the Nu-Rex system fight the spark rod, and wont it move the lever by itself when the system automatically advances the timing?

No, the Nu-Rex system operates only on the distributor shaft. It causes the upper shaft to advance farther as its rotational speed increases, which alters the moment when the points open relative to the position of the piston. You can separately move the upper plate, via the spark control rod, which adjusts the position of the points – not the shaft – relative to the piston. So you have two mechanisms of control that don't affect each other.

However, because the Nu-Rex system will advance the timing a full 29-30°, you would want to restrict the adjustment you make via the spark control rod to just a few degrees fine-tuning.
 
I have seen them advertised for years and always wanted to try one. I finally got my
chance. I built a Burtz kit for a customer with a 7-1 Brumfield head, Burtz cam and 1.75 intakes and stock exhaust valves with the block ported, Model B carburetor and bored out Model A manifold to suit. The advance it set at 26 degrees total and boy does this thing run.
I give the Nu-Rex an A+ (its also been converted to electronic ignition)
 
Be careful with any automatic advance mechanism that the timing is not over advanced, especially with high compression heads. Pre ignition and knocking can cause havoc with the rod bearings.
 
Be careful with any automatic advance mechanism that the timing is not over advanced, especially with high compression heads. Pre ignition and knocking can cause havoc with the rod bearings.

Yes, several members have indicated they set their total advance at 26-28°, as have I.
 
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