Not liking the old school ******

AnthonyG

AnthonyG

Well-known member
I gave it the '14 Spring, Summer and Sept. cruising so far after I put a fresh mildly juiced 8BA in my '35, went with new Clutch, PP & FW also a rebuilt '39 ****** last winter. Thought I wanted the old school ride all the way but truth be told I can't stand the old school ******. Guess I've become spoiled with the modern 4,5 and 6 speed trannys with full syncro's. I think I'll be researching putting a newer more modern 4 speed this winter. I know I see a lot of chatter about the T5's. What else is used? Also is there a conversion to go with an open drive shaft but stay with the stock rear when going with a modern ******, or is the only solution to go with a newer rear that's already set up for the open drive shaft?
 
I'll let you know if I do. Depends on how much major mods it will take. Car is a beauty and don't want to chop it up as I know the value is in it being as stock as it is with just a few old school '50's hot rod touches. I have all the original stuff and it could easily be returned to stock configuration save the 8BA. If too much modification is required I may just sell the vehicle and start with a chassis setup with a 9" rear and go from there.
 
Regarding the rear, The Hot Rod Works sell a conversion for the banjo diff to open drive. I used an 84-87 Ford F150 RTS trans behind my '47 engine. It is 3+1, that is 3 speed plus overdrive, with the top shifter almost in stock location. It has synchro on all, shifts fast, and is bulletproof behind a flathead.
 
How about adding a Mitchel OD? That is what I did for my 36 woodie. Gives OD and I didn't have to make any permanent modifications. May have to modify floors for other body styles. I consider no synchros in first not a significant problem. Stop to shift into first.
 
When switching to a open drive. You have to have somewhere else to connect the radius rods.
 
your problem is like a lot of other guys have-they want the "old school" look but not be old school, if you want modern go buy a new brand X with all the syncro's and such, and save the old original car to look at, drive once in awhile or better yet sell it to a guy who will appreciate the "old school" look and feel
 
bart78 said:
When switching to a open drive. You have to have somewhere else to connect the radius rods.
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And strength of the arms really needs bettering. And the need for another "torque arm" of some description. To stop the rear end trying to rotate up through the floor.
Gonna take more than a weekend.
What do you actually miss in the function of the three speed? Lack of overdrive? Can be sorted with a in torque tube overdrive.
no synchro on first? Learn to double clutch, or stop before shifting into first. These vehicles will mostly pull from an almost stop' or complete stop in second gear.
Just want to wiggle the stick more? Get a toy one and tape it to the seat, and wiggle that.
Are any of these worth the work of getting a different trans in there? Gonna be frame modifications, fabricating parts and a lot of down time and agro of doing this job on a complete car, if you don't have a four post lift or such. Or money if you don't do it your self.
choice is yours, answer the questions and decide what you want to do.
I'd say don't do it to this car, do it on a complete build from parts maybe.
This is my opinion. Others will have there own.
Martin.
 
The T170FT (RTS) TOD 3-speed with OD from F150 pickups has been modified to work with a torque tube to keep the top shift. Certain T5 transmissions have also been modified to work with a torque tube. All the other current options have to use open drive modifications that make it a much bigger challenge but do-able.
 
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Anthony,
I build a lot of " '39 trans" every year. Having said that I have on a few
occasions driven/worked on early Fords with T 5's....the T 5 is in my opinion the
ultimate trans for these cars. I seriously considered installing a T 5 in my '41 1/2 ton
until I decided I'd have to seriously alter my perfect frame then deal with parallel
springs or make the cross rear spring work with an open drive. Practically speaking
once done it would be a real task to 'put it back'....of course nothing is impossible.
I'm running a healthy 8ba with a tall rear gear, the motor is strong enough
to pull the truck any where with a minimum of shifting. I can easily haul *** up hills
in my area with one 2nd to 3rd shift that challenged the truck with its previous
Flathead requiring numerous 2nd to 3rd shifts.
Still no 1st gear syncro with the '39 box BUT I'm glad I did not cut things
up, this after 3 years.
Charlie ny
 
Allenwoodieman are you the guy who will appreciate it? Send private message and maybe we can come to terms. Truly I don't want to chop it up and would start from scratch with a frame setup for what I want rather than destroy the integrity of this car.
 
In going to T5, make sure it's a good one. I had one in my '35 Tudor that was rebuilt but kept popping out of 2nd.......more frustrating than my '35 3 speed in my '32 pickup.
Yes, it needed to be pulled and corrected but things go wrong with newer stuff as well.

And yes, keep me in mind for that '39 trans of yours.
 
Consider going to a higher gear in the differential. A 3.54 made a big difference in my `35 and I live in hilly country. If I lived in level country I would consider a notch higher.
 
jimTN said:
You also have to butcher the x member which destroys the car going back to original.
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No, that is not right. Chassis Engineering sell a wishbone mounting plate, and a bolt on ****** mount can easily be fabricated so no butchering apart from a couple of bolt holes. I wish people would get their facts straight on things before making emotive and erroneous comments.
 
Have Chassis Engineering send you a catalog. Replacing the '39 trans with a modern trans will reguire alot of modifying. Chassis Eng. will supply you with the modifications you will need. All their products can be installed with the help of a 3/8 drill motor. No welding required. Proper planning will be your reward.
May I ask; is there something about the shifting that isn't correct? Maybe you should have another "ole car guy" drive it an see if there is a problem that can be corrected.
Often when rebuilding the '39 trans they get reassembled slightly improper. Making a drag on the gears and difficult ( not fun ) to shift.
Great hobby
Have fun
Bill Herbert
 
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