NOS rear fender

Divco one

Senior Member
How can I tell if this is really a NOS rear fender? I'm going to offer it for sale and I don't want to mis-represent it.
Thanks, Bob Giles
 

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First you need to see if there are wear or scratches around the holes where the bolts and washers are to see if they are free of wear. Next you can look at the outside of the fender bracket hole in the outer bead. There is a reinforcing plate behind the hole area that is spot welded to the inner side of the fender bead and should show the dimples on the outside on both sides of the hole in the bead where the spot weld occurred. Repro fenders, even the good ones from Albrecht Towing, don't have the holes or reinforcing plates in them. Also, look at the reinforcing plate where the runningboard bolts are located. Repro fenders reinforcing plates are a little different than original Ford fender reinforcing plates. I have a NOS 28 fender and Albreght Towing repro fenders are very close in appearance to the NOS fender I have. I don't think many people could ever tell the difference. Probably the best way to tell, is find an original Ford fender and compare your questionable NOS fender with a known original Ford fender in the areas I mentioned above.
Rusty Nelson
 
A couple things that I noticed . it has what looks to be grey primer under the black, I do not see the reinforcement on the inside of the dog leg,
 
I think it is a repro.

The doubler at the running board does not have a bead at the top. I changed over the doubler on my repro rear fenders to originals because of that and they were lighter gauge.

As noted by another person the reinforcement is not at the bead hole.

The searations on the bead edge seems very pronounced. I would wonder if this was an early one as they seem better done then my repros where were a few years ago.
 
Curious as to how far ford kept stamping out body panels after the last model A rolled off the line...anyone know?
 
Curious as to how far ford kept stamping out body panels after the last model A rolled off the line...anyone know?

Ford or did Ford contract the work out?

I do not know the answer. But I have been told by those who know a lot more then me that Ford had later parts made by others. You have to be careful as they were not likely made to the same standard as Ford production years. One case I am aware of was a known 40's production NOS flywheel that was not well balanced compared to the dead on production year made part.
 
If I were you, I would list it as a nice repro. That way you can't be blamed if it is a repro, even though it could be a NOS fender. You might lose a little on the price, but have peace of mind. I bought a NOS 28 coupe/roadster fender a couple years ago for $400. Nice repros are going for about $350. The Albrecht Towing repro fenders are very close to duplicates of the originals. I used two of them on my 28 coupe and was very satisfied with them and I am picky.
Rusty Nelson
 
Also it appears to be missing the doubler that goes where the notch is for the splash apron.

If that is true then I have little doubt it is a repro.
 
Few more details.
 

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It definitely looks like a repro and not the better one from Albrecht Towing. The reinforcing plate for the runningboard area is formed incorrectly. In addition, the reinforcing plate for the outside hole for the fender bracket is also incorrect. You didn't post a picture of the inside where the cutout is for the splash apron. There should be a doubler like someone mentioned above. One more picture of the inside would help, but the fender sure looks like a repro and not NOS.
Rusty Nelson
 
A fender doubler is a small metal piece that is formed to fit inside the fender. I am not 100% sure the technical name is a "doubler", but it describes its function well. I just happen to have a doubler for a 28/29 coupe/roadster/pickup rear fender. The picture is of a right fender doubler. It fits inside and is spot welded to the fender to reinforce the top of where the splash apron bolts to the fender. I think you can see how it would fit in the fender. I haven't welded it in place yet after repairing some rust-outs in it.
Rusty Nelson
 

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Rusty's response in post #15 is spot on. That part serves as a local reinforcement to prevent cracking around the fastener holes.
 
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