Non-removal leaf spring lubricant?

jwilliams81

jwilliams81

Senior Member
I wanted to ask what you guys would do to lube the springs without removing them from the car. I just got her running and I would like to be able to drive her for the summer before really tearing into the springs and removing them.
So this would be a temporary solution.

I was thinking I could unload each side at a time and either spray Slip-plate, or some type of PTFE Dry Teflon Lubricant on and in between the leaves.
Which would be better?

I have been spraying them with PB blaster to get them moving and that worked really well.

Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks
 
Jack up the car and support by the frame so the suspension unloads.

Take a tapered chisel or such and spread open each leaf to lubricate...

Wear gooogles

Removing the spring clamps may help
 
This works to spread the leaves:
 

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My 29 Tudor was bone dry and had the typical red rust showing on the springs edges. It rode like a lumber wagon. Just squirting oil all over the springs made a world of difference.

I see restored and nice original cars at the meets with dry springs and rust showing, and can only shake my head and wonder.
 
There is a lube point in the hand crank bearing after some time in 29 that helps lube the front spring--- while I had the oil can I squirted the springs --- front and back , made a mess, then after 20 miles I had to tighten the shock adjustment some to stop the bounce, made the ride better too
 
I unloaded my springs, as Mitch suggested, but sprayed mine with a graphite lube that I got from my local NAPA store. Admittedly, not as good as grease, but sure stopped the squeaking and red rust. At least for now. I am about due for a reapplication too. I think they have both a liquid and a dry product in a spray can. I think I used both, thinking the liquid would penetrate better and carry some of the dry in with it.
 
Kurt in NJ said:
There is a lube point in the hand crank bearing after some time in 29 that helps lube the front spring--- while I had the oil can I squirted the springs --- front and back , made a mess, then after 20 miles I had to tighten the shock adjustment some to stop the bounce, made the ride better too
Click to expand...

I think that would lube the saddle contact point more then the actual leave separation....

Most dont know about that hole
 
Thanks guys. I guess I thought that if I unloaded the springs, without taking them off the car, and not using a spring spreader I could work in some type of lube.

What would be the best type of lube to actually use in that instance?
 
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jwilliams81 said:
I have been spraying them with PB blaster to get them moving and that worked really well.
Click to expand...

Have you tried PB Blaster with Graphite? Spread them apart and spray. After the carrier fluid drys it leaves a graphite coating on your springs. Be carful of overspray, it's hard to remove after it drys (especially on painted surfaces).

After I lubed mine with the graphite I greased them and installed spring covers to keep water and dirt off of the leaves. The covers also have a pad that you apply grease/oil to.

Below is a picture of a tool I made out of some round stock for lubing leaf springs.
 

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Mitch//pa said:
I think that would lube the saddle contact point more then the actual leave separation....

Most dont know about that hole
Click to expand...

I just oiled that first over several drives and watched the oil spread down the leaves--- I did seal around the hole to the frame when putting on the crank bearing so all the oil went down to the spring

This is also the same time I realize d that a good squirt of oil in the dist oiler oiled the top bushing
 
jwilliams81 said:
Thanks guys. I guess I thought that if I unloaded the springs, without taking them off the car, and not using a spring spreader I could work in some type of lube.

What would be the best type of lube to actually use in that instance?
Click to expand...

Oil will seep in and spread to do a great job. Use an oil can to squirt, or use a 1/2" or 1" wide paint brush dipped in drain oil. Drain oil will work as well as new oil. Do it in the grass or dirt so you don't have drops on your driveway.
 
I've often seen people suggest here that a seized nut or bolt can be freed with a mix of ATF and acetone. Would that not work on the springs?
 
Synchro909 said:
I've often seen people suggest here that a seized nut or bolt can be freed with a mix of ATF and acetone. Would that not work on the springs?
Click to expand...

It will work to get the springs moving and help with running rust but long term, I think ATF is too thin to provide much lubrication.
 
Atf will work, in 1936 Ford put fittings on the centerbolt for spring lube, the spec for spring lube was somethiimg like 77% ice machine oil, the balance talc with a touch of ground asbestos, ice machine oil is about the weight of ATF, talc is a dry lube/ polishing media used in some slip plate products

If you don't have properly working shocke leave your springs dry---the dry springs dampen movement in the place of shocks
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Have you tried PB Blaster with Graphite? Spread them apart and spray. After the carrier fluid drys it leaves a graphite coating on your springs. Be carful of overspray, it's hard to remove after it drys (especially on painted surfaces).

After I lubed mine with the graphite I greased them and installed spring covers to keep water and dirt off of the leaves. The covers also have a pad that you apply grease/oil to.

Below is a picture of a tool I made out of some round stock for lubing leaf springs.
Click to expand...

Very clever and well done. Does the entire tube fill up with grease before it needs to squirts out?
 
Thanks old31. The 'Tube" is solid. The hole for the grease is only from the zerk fitting to the outlet.

I would like to take "credit" for the design but I copied it from one I seen on epay. I see them occasionally, usually from England.
 
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