Noise when clutch is engaged?

Tinker

Tinker

Well-known member
Hello.

I picked up a 29' coupe that I am starting to clean up and fix issues.

My question is when I engage the clutch it makes a chirping noise. I was suspecting it's the throwout bearing but I took off the inspection plate and all the parts move as expected. The throwout bearing looks new and spins smoothly. The clutch operates fine when driving except for the noise when clutch is engaged.

I will try and get some video posted.

I plan on pulling the rearend to replace a broken shackle and would like to pull the transmission then.

I've been working on flathead v8's for a little while and have a decent grasp of them but this is my first A. I have picked up some great books but I wanted to get as much info as I can, so when I pull everything apart it will go smoothly.

Thanks for listening (reading).
 
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I always like to dismantle things but pulling the rear-end to change a shackle seem a little extreme, but if you want to open the transmission thats a better reason.
 
Greased the throwout a couple nights ago. I started it last night and clutch was doing it. I will have to drive it around a bit to see if it will help. I'm hoping that is all it is.

frankin, I know it seems like overkill but it'll just be easier to work on everything without having to crouch under the car. It's just a matter of unbolting brakes, clam, speedo, and suspension/spring. I have done shackles before on my 38 and it can be a bear to get the steel bushings out. Plus I can go over everything with it out much easier.

I also thought I could get the transmission in the same teardown.
 
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If you are new to As, be aware that removing the rear spring can be a dangerous affair. The old, rusty center bolt may give way at any moment.
Use caution and ask questions here.
 
"It's just a matter of unbolting brakes, clam, speedo, and suspension/spring."

Tinker, that made me laugh out loud. Those clams are the darndest things to work on with a Model A! :D
 
Ha ha!!! I'm glad I made someone laugh. I have my moments.

I call it a clam but maybe it's called something else. It's the shield that goes around the torque tube connecting to the transmission.
 
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Tinker said:
Since we are on the subject. What is the best procedure to remove the spring?
Click to expand...

Unless you are going to re-hab the the rear spring, leave it bolted to the frame. It's easier to pull the rear end & torque tube w/o the spring (Don't have to lift frame as high).
If you decide to pull the spring....I would use your spreadder to remove it from the rear axle. pull the rear end. Wrap both sides of the spring with heavy chain (not swing-set chain) and remove the U bolts. Carefull, the spring is heavy don't drop it on the floor, as the center bolt may be ready to go.
If you decide to re-hab the spring, then (still wrapped with chain) carefully undo the center bolt.
 
Thanks Tom. The rear spring clamps where loose when I received the vehicle (don't get me started) and I had already unbolted them with no issues and rebolted after getting things level. I must have a angel over my shoulder becuase everthing went okay. As mentioned, I have removed the front and rear springs on my 38' pu so I have respect for steel under pressure, but thank you tom for reminding me.

Any thoughts on the video link I posted?
 
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Tinker said:
Hello.

I picked up a 29' coupe that I am starting to clean up and fix issues.

My question is when I engage the clutch it makes a chirping noise. I was suspecting it's the throwout bearing but I took off the inspection plate and all the parts move as expected. The throwout bearing looks new and spins smoothly. The clutch operates fine when driving except for the noise when clutch is engaged.

I will try and get some video posted.

I plan on pulling the rearend to replace a broken shackle and would like to pull the transmission then.

I've been working on flathead v8's for a little while and have a decent grasp of them but this is my first A. I have picked up some great books but I wanted to get as much info as I can, so when I pull everything apart it will go smoothly.

Thanks for listening (reading).
Click to expand...
the greaseis tired in the t o bearing.
 
When I want to rehab the rear spring, I remove the center bolt and the two side clamps with the springs still in the cross member and the U bolts still tight. The car weight, Xmember slot and U bolts hold things in place. Then loosen or remove the U bolts. Car weight and Xmember slot still holds the spring. Then, with the lifting device (coffin jack or whatever) providing some lift to remove some weight on the shackles, spread the spring, remove the shackles. At this point, the main leaf is the only one under tension. Remove spring spreader. Spring is now dissambled. Lift the car a bit more if necessary. Springs will fall out. Keeping the springs in the Xmember groove and using the car weight to control release of tension is a pretty safe way to do it. Keeps the leaves in place and under control if something slips or breaks.
 
Okay I just took it out for a 20 minute spin and it's starting to quiet down. Little more grease and some more driving should do the trick. Thanks for everyones help. I was hoping that was what it was but I didn't want to believe it it was that simple.

Since I won't be removing the transmission I'll leave the rearend in and just replace shackles and move on to other fixes. Good information here! Thank you.
 
on the clutch noise ..... i had a little chirp like sound from my clutch . it was a broken spring (clutch disc spring) that had wedged itself & would rub now & then ...............
use alot of caution on the rear spring . you could lose a head . one heck of alot of pressure there . the front is ez , but the rear can kill ................ steve
 
Adjusted the point gap tonight, big improvement.

Thinking about it some more while working, I,ll probably have to pull it and fix it right. I can't drive it without thinking about it. I do love driving it though, so I might procrastinate a little! Down here in the south, now would be the time to fix it and enjoy it this winter.

You guys have put the fear of kinetic energy in me, but I think it needs to be done.
 
If the chirp starts just as the clutch starts to engage it is probably the pilot bearing squaking, if the chirp happens after the clutch is engaged and just as you take your foot off the pedal I would look toward the throughout bearing as the cause
 
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