No voltage to points - HELP?

Thanks, Dave.

So because I got a reading over 12 ohms, I'm assuming there's a problem?

Since that test, I took the distributor out, unscrewed the armoured cable and measured only 0.94 volts to the plunger with ignition on. I have 6 volts everywhere else.

I'm assuming that means a shorted armoured cable, as opposed to anything shorted in the distributor?
 
Yes, you have bad armoured cable. Predicted in post #14.

If it makes you feel better, it was a failure waiting to happen. Best to have it happen now rather than on the road somewhere and cause an intermittent dead motor.
 
Horsewhisperer, I'm not sure what scale is represented by "200m" but on ANY scale the needle or readout should be maxed for "infinite" = open circuit. A reading of 12.7 MAY be ok if your scale is at the megaohm level (per P.S. post).

I am far from an expert on testing the popout cable, but here's my thinking. A resistance reading of zero, even an intermittant one, suggests that the wire is shorting out inside the popout cable, probably because the wire insulation cracked and is letting the bare wire touch the inside of the cable. The low voltage reading at the plunger would be consistent with a damaged popout cable.

I imagine someone who really knows those cables will chime in. Good luck.

And see, P.S. did just that while I was typing! :)
 
Appreciate the help, guys. At least now, I know what the problem is.

I'm hoping Dick Crabtree is still restoring these original pop-outs. He did a fine job on the cable in my Roadster a few years back.

Many thanks!
 
Horsewhisperer, if your source isn't available, I believe that John Holland (330-483-3896) in Ohio also restores popout cables. He's the same fellow recommended for shock rebuilding.

P.S. Glad to lend a hand - being able to tell someone how to do the test is 90% of the deal!
 
Pilotdave said:
Horsewhisperer, if your source isn't available, I believe that John Holland (330-483-3896) in Ohio also restores popout cables. He's the same fellow recommended for shock rebuilding.

P.S. Glad to lend a hand - being able to tell someone how to do the test is 90% of the deal!
Click to expand...

Thanks, Dave. I just received word from Dick that he is still restoring them.

I've met John Holland and he did a nice job on shock rebuilds for me. I forgot that he also did cables.
 
HoarseWhisperer said:
Thanks, Dave.

So because I got a reading over 12 ohms, I'm assuming there's a problem?

Since that test, I took the distributor out, unscrewed the armoured cable and measured only 0.94 volts to the plunger with ignition on. I have 6 volts everywhere else.

I'm assuming that means a shorted armoured cable, as opposed to anything shorted in the distributor?
Click to expand...

With a short anywhere between the coil and points, one coil primary post should read zero volts or very close to zero.:)
If 6 volts was still present at both posts then it would indicate an open, rather than a short.

Most of the original popouts should have the wire replaced if it hasn't already been done. I worked on one that was only slightly touching ground due to bad insulation. It had enough spark to run, but too weak to get up to any speed past 25 or so.:mad:
 
This is my generic no spark troubleshooting list,

No Spark
Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.


Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse or fuse block.

Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.

If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.

Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?

Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?

Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points. If not,
The points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.
 
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