No Voltage on Ignition 1929 Phaeton

Ford1930

Ford1930

Member
I need help. If haven't got voltage on the points in my 1929 35A. I have renewed the upper and lower Ignition Plates and the Points (Nu Rex). I have checked the newly installed Coil and the Ignition Switch, they work. I have screwed back the Ignition Switch Cable a bit in the Ignition Housing and still no voltage. The Fuse is oké. The Battery is new. What am I doing wrong?????
 
Keep it simple

Follow the power and see where it stops.

Armored wire going to the bottom plate, make sure you didn't screw it in too far.

The flag terminal on the bottom plate that the armored wire goes to. I replaced mine and lost voltage to my points. Drove me crazy till I found the terminal too close to the upper plate causing a break in the system. I pressed the terminal down with my finger and that is all that was needed to allow my points to work. The amount of time it took me to solve that is embarrassing.

Good Luck
 
Verify voltage at coil, red wire. Check for voltage on points held open. Not much in between, just switch and cable plunger contact.
 
do you have voltage at the end of the ignition switch cable ----
Is the lower plate a reproduction, or modified ---what does it have for a wire, are the terminals touching the upper plate --remove the upper plate with everything else in place and see if you have power to the wire----then move through the connection to the points,
 
I have a Modern Upper and Lower Plate. Cordless connection.
How far may an Armored Wire be screwed in? I can see a few millimeters of the treaded end when I look in the distributor.
 
Ford1930 said:
I have a Modern Upper and Lower Plate. Cordless connection.
How far may an Armored Wire be screwed in? I can see a few millimeters of the treaded end when I look in the distributor.
Click to expand...

It doesn't need to be screwed in all the way. It could ground if it is. Easiest way to check thats its right is to see if you have 6 volts at the points with the arm open. Volts should read 0 with points closed.
 
The best troubleshooting device that I have found is a test light built into a handle of what looks like a screwdriver with a pointed tip. You clip a wire to any convenient ground point and then you go through the wires, starting at the starter switch, and confirm you have power at each key point as you go.

Look for something like this photo.

Put a piece of cardboard, like a business card, between the points to hold them open. You should be able to trace power from starter switch to points with the key on and the points held open.

A volt meter will also work. I like the light.

:cool:
 

Attachments

  • Test Light.jpg
    Test Light.jpg
    33.7 KB · Views: 4
Ford1930 said:
I have a Modern Upper and Lower Plate. Cordless connection.
How far may an Armored Wire be screwed in? I can see a few millimeters of the treaded end when I look in the distributor.
Click to expand...




I had issues and have heard others have had issues with Nurex Wireless Plates. After some time, the mechanical "shoe" connection causes a poor connection. Since the top plate moves every time you adjust the spark lever on the steering column the shoe rubs the top distributor plate.


After a couple of thousand miles I had multiple strange issues including stall at stop, and engine missing when starting from stop under heavy load (starting up hills). After replacing most electrical components and trying a different known good carb from a friend without resolving the issue, went back to non-wireless plates/components and issue was resolved.
 
Ford1930 said:
I have a Modern Upper and Lower Plate. Cordless connection.
How far may an Armored Wire be screwed in? I can see a few millimeters of the treaded end when I look in the distributor.
Click to expand...

I always turn mine in three full rotations. No more, no less. Never have had a problem.
 
Many folks don't like the 'modern' upgrade. [I guess then it shouldn't be called an upgrade should it]. The originals were wired and I've added a fine strand wire to a wireless plate. They work fine but some have trouble adjusting the points because the adjustment hole isn't in the plate. [ I drilled/filed one in mine]. The quality of most new points is horrible.
 
I have found the problem (I hope) The Armored Wire seems to be the problem. I am going to replace it by a new one. I'll replace the switch at the same time.
Thank You All for the HELP!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top