no start

Guys, I am utilizing a stock ignition switch (pop out) that was rebuilt. Is there a way to test the switch? How about a test to know if it is in far enough vs. too far?
 
Wire inside the original electolock would break or short out with age , which is why few Model A s have original locks . Also condensers are a noted problem spot. Wire that connected the upper and lower plate in distributor can loosen or short out. Had a 37 Ford V8 that would shut down intermittently, due to bad coil overheating. Finally traced it back to generator over charging.Good luck on finding the problem.
 
gdmn852 said:
Wire inside the original electolock would break or short out with age , which is why few Model A s have original locks . Also condensers are a noted problem spot. Wire that connected the upper and lower plate in distributor can loosen or short out. Had a 37 Ford V8 that would shut down intermittently, due to bad coil overheating. Finally traced it back to generator over charging.Good luck on finding the problem.
Click to expand...

Switch is rebuilt.
Distributor is rebuilt. I looked within it just today... all appears very nice.

This truck was running recently. Died and would not start since. I have done all the voltage tests suggested within this thread and all have "passed".

I did turn the switch out of the distributor one turn just this morning. No change in behavior.
 
Points open and you have measured battery voltage at the points with the switch on you good ! Turn the switch off you should have 0 volts at the points. Turn the switch on, (with the points still open ) and watch the ammeter, it shouldn’t move ! If it moves you have a short or ground. Speaking of ground is the distributor NOT grounded by paint ? Take a temporary wire and ground the moveable plate to a known good ground like a head nut, try to start it. One other thing are you sure the distributor is turning ? watch the rotator while cranking the starter. You still might have a bad new condenser.
 
The infamous black wire that attaches the lower distributor plate to the upper one can fray, have broken strands or terminal and become an open or a short. It is often intermittent and subject to the position of the spark advance lever.
 
Have you pulled the dash off loosely and checked to make sure nothing is shorting
in back of the dash and down the channel that the wires go thru. Continuity test the wires from the box to the dash. I had a short on the ignition switch wire in the channel and that will keep a car from starting. Good luck....
 
One fellow recently had a bad coil wire. You just never know what might die on these old Fords. Thorough testing should confirm the culprit. If something is suspect then try a known to be good component.
 
Our popout failed this summer. Pushing in the switch would shut off the engine but would ground the coil and overheat it. Not enough draw to blow the fuse but would kill the battery and have some tar run out of the coil. I had a NuRex switch and cable which solved the problem. Dale
 
There were two basic designs of the pop out. The older one from 28/29 had contacts to pass current flow but the later 30/31 types used a solder joint at the switch. Both types can be tested with an Ohm meter. Switch open should give no continuity indication at all. Switch closed should have continuity with fairly low resistance.
 
Okay, update time. Thanks all for putting up with me.

Here's what I did:
Backed ignition switch off within distributor body one full turn.
Visually checked the distributor again. Everything appears fresh, clean, no fray, etc.
With ignition off, I checked for voltage at both sides of the coil (6.3) and at both "wing nuts" at junction block (6.3).
With ignition on, I checked for voltage at points with them set open (6.3).
Placed distributor end of coil wire near head bolt and grounded points. Got a GOOD spark to jump each and every time.

Gas flow to carb is excellent.

Put all back together.

Attempted to start. Amp gauge bounces as expected. Engine started, sounded good for about twenty seconds. Acted as if it ran out of fuel. It didn't.
Tried to start again and noted amp gauge NOT bounce.

Now I'm back to a no start condition.

I have a little more hair I can pull out. Not much....
 
Replace points and condensor. Make sure point are set at 0.020 to 0.018 inch when they are fully open. No need to re time engine. Use a good quality condensor.
 
I think I have located the culprit.

The ignition switch worked and then didn't work. After I jiggled it (rear of panel) it worked again.
I have ordered a new one.

I'll update ASAP.
 
That brings up memories, 53 years ago when I was driving my new to me A home 45 miles away 45 from home I bounced over a RR crossing. It died pulled over on the side of the road turned off the switch, got out and wondering what to do ? After awhile mom said let’s go I said hope it starts??!! It started ! From time to time she would die, turning the key off and on several times helped as the condition became less and less. This was exciting when it would happen coasting in gear turning the switch off and then back on ! Kaboom !!! Until I blew the muffler apart
 
A good diagnostic tool to have with you is a ignition jumper cable that bypasses the ignition switch. Available at most suppliers or you can make your own.
 
And wire your car's coil connection to the junction box as the November, 1929, page 390 of the Ford service bulletins tell you to. Then keep your eye on the ammeter as it becomes your first go to diagnostics tool for the primary ignition!!!!
 
Planojc said:
Sometimes just because something has been rebuilt doesn't mean it's good.
Click to expand...
Oh gosh, this I had come to realize as far back as the 1970's. These days it is much worse.
New? Rebuilt? Means much less than it once had.
 
ARGGHH! Deep breaths, in and out....

Okay, installed a new repop switch today. The one that looks pretty much like a pop out.
Checked all the places for voltage, etc. All good per everyone's advice.
Engine started and ran quite nicely. Shut it off and restarted a number of times. Then shut it off and it didn't.
I did note that the amp gauge needle bounces at times and at other times does not bounce.

The hair is getting pulled out... soon to be bald. Who'd a thunk a Model A could make a guy bald?
 
If you are not getting the bouncing needle then the points are not switching on and off. Here is what to look for:


  • The points should be shinny and clean and gapped correctly.
  • The stationary point has to have a good ground. Is there paint under it or another reason it is not grounded?
  • The distributor has to be grounded. Some people will run a wire from the grounded side of the condensor to a grounded point on the engine.
  • There has to be good electrical conductivity to the moving point. With the points open or a piece of cardboard between them and ignition on, measure the voltage at the moving point while you wiggle wires from the starter motor terminal all the way to the points.
 
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