no start

Kube

Kube

Super Moderator
Guys, I think I know the cause of my issue but would like your advice.

I have 6.32v. at both sides of the coil and at both sides of the junction box and of course, at the starter. These were tested with the ignition switch on.
With switch off, I tested the moving arm of the points while they were blocked with cardboard. Yep, 6.32v.

Engine turns over very well. In fact, it had been running up until a few days ago.
I did install another new short proof condenser, and everything remained the same.
I placed a screwdriver near the terminals of the distributor cap and don't see any spark jumping.
 
If your ig switch is off/open, you shouldn't have voltage at the points regardless of their being blocked open by cardboard????
 
Last edited:
Here's a couple goofs I've made when working on our A.

Turn the fuel on. Turn the ig key on. Put the rotor back in the distributor. Push the coil wire up all the way into the coil. Push the coil wire all the way down into the distributor cap.

Do you have a spark tester? One that the vendors sell. It goes into the top of the distributor. It's easy to see the quality of the secondary spark.

Do you get a snappy blue spark when you open and close the points manually?
 
Last edited:
Rob Doe said:
If your ig switch is off/open, you shouldn't have voltage at the points regardless of their being blocked open by cardboard????
Click to expand...

Rob, I misspoke. The ignition was on when checking points.
Here's where I am at currently: Made certain all plugs were well grounded. They are. Double checked timing. Spot on.
Installed different coil.
Tested spark at #1 the good old-fashioned way. Set my little fingers on fire :)
Tried to start the engine. Fired right up. Ran a little rough like perhaps too rich.
Then, after about five minutes, it just stopped. No sputtering, nothing. Just plain stopped.
Now? Won't start, no spark at plugs.

Now? I'm about to have a brandy.
 
Last edited:
I’ve had success with asking myself “what was the first thing I fixed after it was last working?” Seems to me that logic would point to the condenser, based upon your description. Heat (warming up) seems to affect things, so I’d swap the old condenser back in to see if the problem is negated.
 
You have an open circuit or a short circuit. Start by unscrewing the armored cable plug that goes into the side of the distributor one complete turn. Check that the ignition switch is not grounding out on the tank by pulling the instrument panel out a little ways. Check the wiring inside the distributor for shorts or broken wires. Check that the points have the correct gap (0.020). With ignition on and points open there should be 6 plus volts at the moving point and with the points close there should zero volts at the movable point. If still 6 volts with the points closed, clean the points with 400 grit wet and dry paper and then run some cardboard through to remove the grit.

It is amazing to me how many typos I can find the next day when I re read my posts.
 
Last edited:
t You have an open circuit for a short circuit. Start by unscrewing the armored cable plug that goes into the side of the distributor one complete turn


what I meant to say...........
 
Guys, thanks so much for the great advice. Might be a few days before I can what you've recommended. I promise to report back.
 
First simple and easiest thing I do when a car won't start is to put a test light on the points side of the coil and with key on and cranking it should flash on and off. If no flashing, check and clean the points.
 
I'm not sure if you are running a stock breaker set or if you are running modern points but when you mention blow proof condenser, I figure it's stock. Be sure that the wire on the bottom of the points plate is in good condition, It moves with any change of the spark control and can get fatigued or loose. The coil will have power on the input NEG terminal but the circuit is open if the ignition is off (switch open). With switch closed, it is live but the points have to be closed to complete the circuit. In other words, the ground side of the breaker points should indicate no power in that part of the circuit when points are open. Use of a volt meter or test light probe can complete the circuit to ground when testing a coil so a test is limited in what it will tell you.

Ar you running a modern ignition switch or a an Electro-Lock switch & cable? Any problem in the control part of the circuit can show up as intermittent or wide open so just make sure its working strong.

Coils can be temperature sensitive if there is an open in a fine secondary winding. They will function till it heats up and the cracked wire ends grow apart and open. The primary is less susceptible to this due to the heavier windings. The old coil testers always required a warm up period before starting the test. As manufacture has moved to the third world more and more, I'm losing track of the reliability of any particular brand of coil. I still use Echlin 1.5 Ohm coils when I can but they were bought out by Standard motor parts some time ago. I don't know where the Bosch 1.5 Ohm coils are made either. Old originals are always suspect just due to their age.

PS: If the ammeter is connected properly per the 1929 service bulletin then the ammeter will wiggle during start phase which indicates points are opening and closing. This is the best test of the ignition and you can see it in the drivers seat.
 
Last edited:
If you suspect that the failure is because the coil is getting hot, as rotorwrench suggested, you can cool it with the electronic spray used to find components that are failing because of heat. Or wrap it in ice.

Regarding coil brands: There are some fake branding of coils out there, so beware. Bosch is one brand that has a lot of fake coils being made.
 
Last edited:
I want you guys to know I am sincerely grateful for the advice thus far. I am not a "model A guy" but am becoming one quickly. Lots to learn.
I believe you guys have given me some good direction which I will closely follow this next week.
Thanks again!
 
If you have the bucks, the vendors sell the Les Andrews blue book, " Troubleshooting and Diagnosis". It has a logic chart for diagnosing these issues. It takes a few hours of study and some practice, but will advance your knowledge very quickly.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Good morning guys.

It appears I will finally have a chance to get back to this car.

Is there a sure-fire way to install the ignition switch cable to the proper depth within the distributor

Thank you!
 
Since it is a hand tightened item then there is no torque or anything like that. The distributor has to be turned on the cable thread attachment until contact it made to the lower plate bridge. The MAFCA distributor primer just states that and to be careful not to turn so far that is bends the bridge into contact with the casting. Basically, a person has to feel for the point that turning resistance is felt and stop before it gets too tight. The contact is spring loaded but it doesn't have to bottom out. You can't see in there so the next step is confirmation. Perform a continuity test with points open (no continuity) and with points closed (has continuity). Install the distributor then the cable clamp.

This is for Electro-lock types. The currently available cable can be shoved in through the firewall conduit and connected up to the dash switch. This allows it to be connected to the distributor after it is installed. This isn't possible with an original type Electro-lock switch.
 
Last edited:
rotorwrench said:
Since it is a hand tightened item then there is no torque or anything like that. The distributor has to be turned on the cable thread attachment until contact it made to the lower plate bridge. The MAFCA distributor primer just states that and to be careful not to turn so far that is bends the bridge into contact with the casting. Basically, a person has to feel for the point that turning resistance is felt and stop before it gets too tight. The contact is spring loaded but it doesn't have to bottom out. You can't see in there so the next step is confirmation. Perform a continuity test with points open (no continuity) and with points closed (has continuity). Install the distributor then the cable clamp.

This is for Electro-lock types. The currently available cable can be shoved in through the firewall conduit and connected up to the dash switch. This allows it to be connected to the distributor after it is installed. This isn't possible with an original type Electro-lock switch.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Man oh man, I keep learning. This has the authentic switch assembly.
 
X2 on what Rotorwrench said. But leave it to me, I managed to leave mine too loose once in the early days of our coupe. For lack of a perfect method, I'd suggest pushing with your thumb on the spring loaded end to get a feel for its springiness?? and then turn the distributor onto the end counting turns. Lastly, the end should not be floppy in the threads??? It is a feel thing, as stated above.
 
I put a sharpie mark on top of the cable, then turn four full turns after the threads engage. Haven’t had a problem that way with many distributors. No particular science to that but it’s a place to start.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top