I know this must have happened before to someone. After 4days still won't start. Last time it went squish,squish, through carb I think I have done all were suppose to do but the compression was not done lately.new rebuilt engine by third party. Ready to do more after I get feedback from u my good friends thank you josh
No start stiLL STILL TRYIMG
- Thread starter josh1331
- Start date
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
This is my generic no spark troubleshooting list,
No Spark
Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.
Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse or fuse block.
Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.
Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.
If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.
Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?
Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?
Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points. If not,
The points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.
No Spark
Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.
Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse or fuse block.
Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.
Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.
If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.
Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?
Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?
Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points. If not,
The points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.
30ccpickup
Well-known member
I too like what mike posted. Here is a quick check list to narrow it down. I missed your first post so I am unsure on what was tried.
Quick Fuel Check:
Crank engine fully choke for seven or eight revolutions. If gas leaks from the back of the carburetor your line of fuel is not blocked.
If Fuel Line is Blocked
1. Use a stick to check the fuel level in the gas tank.
2. Repeat the above Quick Check for Fuel with the gas cap off.
3. Remove fuel line at carburetor. Test for fuel flow using the gas shut off valve for means of controlling flow. If blocked blow into fuel line to temporally clear blockage.
4. If gas flows from the fuel line reattach it to the carburetor making sure the line does not extend more than 1/8 of an inch from the ferrule into the carburetor, repeat the above Quick Check for Fuel.
5. Detach the choke lever and remove the center bolt of the carburetor and separate the two halves. Check for fuel flow.
6. Remove valve and check for fuel flow. If no flow check screen for blockage
7. Clean and blow through float valve
Quick Check: Ignition (Primary)
With ignition on, turn the engine over and observe the ammeter. If the needle jiggles the primary side of the electrical system is working. This includes: ignition switch, pop-out cable, points, condenser, primary side of coil, and the hidden wire in the distributor connecting the upper plate to the lower plate. (Paraphrased from Tom Endy’s article “Model A Ford Ignition Diagnostics”)
Note: For early Model A’s up until November 1929 the ammeter was not wired into the primary ignition circuit. To convert:
Disconnect the battery. Open the terminal box on the firewall. Locate the black wire leading from the coil to the terminal on the passenger side, move this wire to the terminal on the driver side. The Ammeter Needle will now jiggle to help with diagnostics.
(Paraphrased from Tom Endy’s article “Model A Ford Ignition Diagnostics”)
Quick Check: Ignition (Secondary)
To check the secondary side of the electrical system, remove one brass spark plug connector from the distributor and position it approximately a ¼ of an inch above its terminal on the distributor. Using the key turn the engine over and observe the gap to see if a bright yellowish-blue spark, with a loud snapping sound is being created
No spark/poor spark; Culprits include:
Quick Fuel Check:
Crank engine fully choke for seven or eight revolutions. If gas leaks from the back of the carburetor your line of fuel is not blocked.
If Fuel Line is Blocked
1. Use a stick to check the fuel level in the gas tank.
2. Repeat the above Quick Check for Fuel with the gas cap off.
3. Remove fuel line at carburetor. Test for fuel flow using the gas shut off valve for means of controlling flow. If blocked blow into fuel line to temporally clear blockage.
4. If gas flows from the fuel line reattach it to the carburetor making sure the line does not extend more than 1/8 of an inch from the ferrule into the carburetor, repeat the above Quick Check for Fuel.
5. Detach the choke lever and remove the center bolt of the carburetor and separate the two halves. Check for fuel flow.
6. Remove valve and check for fuel flow. If no flow check screen for blockage
7. Clean and blow through float valve
With ignition on, turn the engine over and observe the ammeter. If the needle jiggles the primary side of the electrical system is working. This includes: ignition switch, pop-out cable, points, condenser, primary side of coil, and the hidden wire in the distributor connecting the upper plate to the lower plate. (Paraphrased from Tom Endy’s article “Model A Ford Ignition Diagnostics”)
Note: For early Model A’s up until November 1929 the ammeter was not wired into the primary ignition circuit. To convert:
Disconnect the battery. Open the terminal box on the firewall. Locate the black wire leading from the coil to the terminal on the passenger side, move this wire to the terminal on the driver side. The Ammeter Needle will now jiggle to help with diagnostics.
(Paraphrased from Tom Endy’s article “Model A Ford Ignition Diagnostics”)
To check the secondary side of the electrical system, remove one brass spark plug connector from the distributor and position it approximately a ¼ of an inch above its terminal on the distributor. Using the key turn the engine over and observe the gap to see if a bright yellowish-blue spark, with a loud snapping sound is being created
No spark/poor spark; Culprits include:
- Failed condenser
- Lower plate wire broke or shorted
- Point gap closing up
- Pop-out cable to tight and grounding out in distributor
Patrick L.
Well-known member
Is this the first start attempt after the rebuild ? If you have compression, fuel and fire, add a just a little oil in the cylinders then just give it a little pull or push.
Rusty Homestead Fl
Senior Member
Last time it went squish,squish, through carb
Could it be as simple as flooding the carb..? just a thought.
Could it be as simple as flooding the carb..? just a thought.
Charles Coe
Senior Member
I don't know what you mean by squish squish through the carb. Is it possible you have some stuck valves?
johnbuckley
Well-known member
or squish squish like a blown head gasket?
Patrick L.
Well-known member
If you have compression and spark then while looking at that see what the plugs look like. If they are saturated with fuel from flooding the engine, clean, blow/dry them off. Add some oil to the cylinders and try again.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
You're doing a lot of replacing.
You need to narrow the problem first.
Do you have a nice blue spark at least 1/4" long while you hold the coil wire near a head nut?
You need to narrow the problem first.
Do you have a nice blue spark at least 1/4" long while you hold the coil wire near a head nut?
johnbuckley
Well-known member
If there is a) good spark b) correct timing of both spark and valves c) compression then consider contaminated/stale fuel. Don't like using the stuff myself but a spray of EasyStart (ether type aerosol) through the carb should make the diagnosis conclusive to either electrics or fuel.
Last edited:
James Rogers
Well-known member
I just had a problem similar to this with a motor I knew was good. We couldn't get it to run on #3 and #4. We changed the plugs, the manifold and carb and, checked the compression for stuck valves. Nothing worked, it still wouldn't fire 3 and 4 even though it had some spark. Before we pulled the engine back out, I suggested we change the distributor cap because I have had bad ones even new. Fired up and ran as smooth as any new motor ever. Check the cap and rotor.