No start,no spark

J

josh1331

Senior Member
Hey Fellas, 1941 super deluxe, won't start, no spark at plugs, 1.0 v at the resister under dash, 6v at the ignition on two posts but none at the other posts. I know I'm not doing something right on testing as I'm trying to Learn on this flathead. It's new to me. When I originally went out to start it started up but I lost it then after no start. I know by reading this site I'm suppose to get at least 3v at the resistor so it's somewhere maybe in the ignition switch? How show I test ignition switch? I don't even get the heater to turn on and those wires are on the ignition switch. Your help will allow me to get some sleep tonight. Thanks john. Ford103041@gmail.com
 
Pull the wires off the switch and brighten up the ends where they attach, then clean and tighten ground wires.
 
Bypass the switch with a jump wire directly from battery to coil. If voltage ok then at coil, go back and do what "ponymare" suggests.
 
Ok guys will do its driving me crazy. I thInk there's 4 posts on the ignition some have more wires then others but I'll do it as suggested. Is their some diagram that shows what wires on ignition go where I don't see any in my green service manual I got from parts vendor? Maybe there's a Better book I should have?
 
Do you have this diagram? It's for a 40 but should be about the same as 41. May help.
Flathead_Electrical_wiring1940dlx.jpg
 
Here's a 41 schematic from Vanpelt's.

Bob
 

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Tried everything except battery to coil, before I do that, question, doing that will put 6v directly to coil would that harm coil? Because it's suppose to only get 3v from resistor? How is best was y to check voltage at coil, assume with tester post on coil neg to ground on motor? I'm green on this testing but willing to learn thanks john
 
My recommendation is to read the wiring diagram very carefully and then take a volt-meter (or even just a current tester "light") and start tracing from the battery, through all the connections/circuits until you find your problem. Be very methodical about it - starting at the beginning (the battery) and working through the system - all the way to the coil. You'll find a place where the voltage either drops substantially, or isn't there at all. If the wiring is stock and the fuse(s) are in place, then the most likely cause is corrosion or a bad connection in general. Take your time . . . you'll figure it out.

From what I can tell on the wiring diagram, there is a main wire to the ignition switch that comes off the junction where the heavy gauge power lead comes from the battery to the area where the ignition resister and what I believe are circuit breakers(?) exist. I'd start at that location, then head to the ignition switch, then to both sides of the resister . . . you'll find the issue.
 
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Hi there, the internal contacts and brush inside the ignition switch wear out and don't make good contact. Just join all three connections on the back of the ign switch together and start the car to test the system. No need to run wires to the coil. This is a very common fault on old ford V8s. New switch plates and brush contacts can be purchased. Genuine ford is better than reproduction parts. Regards, Kevin.
 
;) A jump to the coil will let you know if coil is the problem. Will save going through the whole switch system needlessly. Ask me how I know.
 
Josh, to get a good clear image of the '41 wiring diagram, click on the URL link that JSeery posted to the schematic diagram on MacVP's website. Then save that into the picture files of whatever system you are using to view Fordbarn (iPhone, iPad, tablet, PC, etc.), and then view it in your picture file. You can then enlarge it as much as you want, and everything will or should be clear and readable.
This won't work if you try to view or download and view a thumbnail picture like Bob C posted.
 
A couple of 21w bulbs soldered in parallel with clip leads is a great piece of test equipment.
Works as ballast to testrun motors, if it lights up bright you got a shorted coil.
Measure both sides on the dropping resistor if you got full battery voltage on one side and 1v on the other you probably have a resistor issue.
If you dont have full battery voltage look at the switch.
 
Thanks guys , I will work on today and let you all know how it turns out. Can't thank all for the great response. Being on this site gives me confidence that I'm not alone. John
 
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