No Spark

Vetcol,
Don't sweat it. You did the right thing. Sometimes it's hard to find the exact answer you need. It's no problem to repost questions that have already been answered, or answered differently. It happens all the time. Ray Horton was just offering a helpful suggestion. I doubt he was trying to be smart. As long as I've been on this board, he has always offered thoughful and helpful solutions, so don't read too much into his post. It really is the etiquette to suggest the search function. Sorry it came off the way it did.

Now back to the issue... Were you able to resolve the issue?

If not, let's keep trying... Everybody here sincerely wants to help.
 
No, problem not resolved and after the PM's that I recieved from this post, this will probally be the last post here.
 
Since you said you had 6 volts going into the switch, but asked how to check the other contact, I assume you have an original popout switch, where the other contact is not readily available, until the distributor is removed from the cable end. Then you can check the brass contact for voltage (with the key on). When you check the brass contact for voltage be sure to flex the cable and also push the contact in and out, in case there is a broken wire or bare insulation on the wire hidden in the steel cable.

BTW, a loose or corroded poor connection can pass voltage, but very little current. So if you don't find the problem with the usual voltage checks, you could load the circuit by using a 6 volt headlamp bulb to check for voltage. Since the bulb will draw about 5 amps you will put a fair load on the circuit. Of course if the current is passing through the coil and you are checking the ground side of the circuit, the coil will drop some of the voltage as well as the bulb filament, so the bulb should be lit dimly on the ground side of the coil circuit, but brightly on the power side. Clear as mud?:D:confused:
 
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Switch test according to the table in the Brattons catalog. These are my results
switch off-A to B no reading
A to C 6 volts
B to C no reading

switch on A to B no reading
A to C 6 volt
B to C no reading
 
Vetcol said:
Switch test according to the table in the Brattons catalog. These are my results
switch off-A to B no reading
A to C 6 volts
B to C no reading

switch on A to B no reading
A to C 6 volt
B to C no reading
Click to expand...

That's a good check that Walt posted in his parts book. Note that the switch is out of the circuit, so you are making a continuity check using an ohm meter (or using the buzzer on the Sperry SP-152A meter), NOT a voltage check.

If your switch is still wired to the coil (I assume it is since you list 6 volts), then you use the DC volts scale to measure voltage. You say you have 6 volts A to C, and since C is ground, your switch has a problem. A should never be connected to ground. In the OFF position the points are connected to ground (B to C) as Walt listed. But, in the ON position NOTHING should be conneced to ground (C).
 
OK, I guess I have a bad switch. Is there a way to jump across and eliminate the switch? What is the best replacement switch to get?
 
I don't think it has been mentioned , but if you have a fuse block assessory mounted on the side of the starter switch, check the fuse, because this may be the culpret. I use a 30 amp fuse on mine. If you are running an original armoured cable and switch, they can cause problems. Some , myself included run a short section of armored cable to reduce clutter under the instrument panel and the replacement switch. The low cost replacement switches are just a problem waiting to happen, I know that myself and others have had problems with the low cost replacement switch. If you are using the short armored cable and replacement switch check for continuity from the tip of the cable end to the connection at the switch. I use the more expensive replacement switch that looks like the popout switch from the instrument panel side, not the repro popout cable and switch. We can only guess at possibilities. Like it or not, I don't believe that Ray Horton meant any harm. Ray is one of the GOOD GUYS here. It is only a common thing to suggest that a person do a search or in some cases, check the judgeing standards for an answer. Sometimes there are many possibilities with model A problems. Most problems have already been discussed many times and a search can be helpfull. Good luck,Model A's can at times be a pain.
 
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Popout8.jpg


What type switch do you have? The popout used with the round speedometer (mid 30 to end) has a removable rear cover, and is pictured here. I had to fix a frayed wire in the cable. I find these a bit easier to work on than the earlier style used with the oval speedometer. There are a couple guys that specialize in restoring popout switches. Maybe someone can list them, as I don't have the names.
 
Any of the vendor's have replacement sw's. Depends on how much you want to spend. As others have stated try to avoid the cheapest one. Although I just picked one up (I thought the quality was quite good compared to the one I replaced from the late 80's) at A&L Parts Specialties, New Hartford, CT 860-693-0112 8am-6pm EST (although they may have summer hours), Call them, VERY knowledgeable and great people to deal with. There is also a small catalog available.Mail address: P.O. Box 301, Canton, CT 06019-0301
Paul in CT
 
Roadster62 said:
Has anyone ever done and PRINTED a step by step test of EVERYTHING elictrical you need to get a Model A running? EVERYTHING, bit by bit, how do you test it and with what tools? If every part was known to work, and installed correctly I would think more cars would be running. We can repair dents because we can see and feel them, electricity is somewhat like religion you have to believe in something you can't see. Bob
Click to expand...

I think this is close to what you want;

Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.


Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse of fuse block.

Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.

If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.

Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?

Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?
 
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