No spark

CB919ER said:
Ok, followed the directions as best I could, points open, used a screw driver across the point (got a little spark here) and put the wire from the distributor near a head bolt and I got no spark. I have power to the points and on both legs of the coil, but nothing through the line to the distributor...
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Try a new or different condenser if you have one....

Number 9 in this drawing...
 

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the spark at the points tells you that bottom plate, ignition switch and shield cable are working properly.
 
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I believe the wire that goes from he coil to the distributor is bad. I can take my circuit test and touch it to my battery and it lights up, if I connect the wire and do the same test I got nothing
 
CB919ER said:
I believe the wire that goes from he coil to the distributor is bad. I can take my circuit test and touch it to my battery and it lights up, if I connect the wire and do the same test I got nothing
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Are you using a test light?

It will not check continuity, it will only tell you if only if power is present.

You can clean both ends of the coil wire, and also the socket in the coil.

To test continuity in the large coil to distributor wire, put one end of the wire to a 6 or 12 volt power source, put the test light on the other end of the large wire, and then complete the circuit with the test light lead to the other post of the power source...

Are you able to post pictures? That would help...
 
CB919ER said:
Ok, followed the directions as best I could, points open, used a screw driver across the point (got a little spark here) and put the wire from the distributor near a head bolt and I got no spark. I have power to the points and on both legs of the coil, but nothing through the line to the distributor...
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You need to check it with one end of the wire connected to the coil....

Remove the large wire end from the distributor and place it next to a head stud....leaving the other end plugged into the coil..
 
You realize that the ignition switch controls the ground side of the circuit.
What post on the battery are you connecting your tester to.

Bob
 

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CB919ER said:
I'm facing a similar problem. I spent all day flushing the tank, changed the plugs, put my freshly cleaned carb on the car and it won't start. Has a new battery and turns over strong as can be, but it won't catch and run, I cleaned between the points and I pulled a plug while I hit the starter I had a friend watch for spark. She said there wasn't any. I'm open to suggestions
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Have you verified that you are getting fuel to the carburetor?

Did you clean the sediment bowl?

Was the spark plug you took out to check for spark wet or damp with fuel?

Has this engine been running recently?

It seems that since you have been working on the fuel system that might be the first place to look..
 
Bob C said:
You realize that the ignition switch controls the ground side of the circuit.
What post on the battery are you connecting your tester to.

Bob
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I was going to mention that too. The distributor primary circuit is on the ground side of the circuit. If you connect a light on one side to ground and touch the other side to (a) the points inside the distributor (b) anywhere along the inner conductor of the armored cable (c) at the ignition switch or (d) at the red wire on the coil, you would get no light lit up if the points are closed, which is most of the time. Put a business card in between the points and make sure the key is on and you should get a light at any of those points. Also, from the black wire side of the coil to ground you should always get a light, providing your main fuse isn't blown.

If he was talking about the thick heavy high voltage wire that goes from the output of the coil to the center top of the distributor body, then, no, there would never be 6 volts DC and the only thing that would light up is him if he happened to be too close to the 20kv output of the coil wire at the right time. At least then he would know he had "spark" :) (Not lethal but pretty attention-getting)
 
Clip your test light to ground and the point to the starter switch to be sure the bulb lights. Now take you high tension coil wire and connect one end to the starter switch and touch the other end to the point on the test light. If the bulb doesn't light, you might have a carbon wire. Throw away a carbon coil wire and buy the correct solid wire one from a parts vendor.

You said you had a small spark when you shorted the points contacts with a screwdriver, so that means you DO have voltage getting to the points.
 
Oddly enough my local auto parts store had an ignition coil, so I replaced it.

Using the method with opening the points, gapping with a screw driver and putting the wire to a head bolt i'm getting orange spark, not blue... I'm beginning to think this may be over my head.

To answer, I've put fresh plugs in it and when I checked them they were damp with fuel, so I know I'm getting gas. I just put a new sediment bulb and filter on the car.
 
CB919ER said:
Oddly enough my local auto parts store had an ignition coil, so I replaced it.

Using the method with opening the points, gapping with a screw driver and putting the wire to a head bolt i'm getting orange spark, not blue... I'm beginning to think this may be over my head.

To answer, I've put fresh plugs in it and when I checked them they were damp with fuel, so I know I'm getting gas. I just put a new sediment bulb and filter on the car.
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Since it looks like you have hijacked this thread I guess I will add to the pandemonium.

Let's restart from the beginning.

From what you just wrote, you do have spark from the new coil you installed but nothing to the plugs. My first check would be to take some lipstick and place it on the center connector of the rotor. Short of the lipstick, magic marker or Dykem Blue or Red. You need something on that spring steel to make sure it is hitting the stationary button in the top of the cap, whichever style you are using.

It seems to me that this is an often overlooked area that really can cause problems.

Now, KNOWING that the spring is indeed touching the top of the cap, grab one of the plug wires and have someone crank the car over with the key ON while you lean against the fender. Even with long pants between you and the fender, you will know when it fires.
DISCLAIMER: If you have a pacemaker installed, I do not know what this will do, so DON"T try this at home!!

I will bet it is something as simple as this that is causing your loss of spark.
 
My apologize for high jacking the thread. I figured since we were on the topic I wouldn't start a new one.
 
By the way, I was in Harbor Freight today and noticed an in-line spark checker for about $4.99 or so. It's for connecting to a plug with standard plug wires, but no reason you couldn't connect it to the high tension coil wire either at the output of the coil or going into the top of the distributor cap.

Might save one from the "pacemaker" effect.
 
Since I'm getting spark from the coil to the block I'm going to get a new distributor and rotor, probably get new copper plug wires while I'm at it. It'll Thursday before I can install them.


Magicbox51 said:
By the way, I was in Harbor Freight today and noticed an in-line spark checker for about $4.99 or so. It's for connecting to a plug with standard plug wires, but no reason you couldn't connect it to the high tension coil wire either at the output of the coil or going into the top of the distributor cap.

Might save one from the "pacemaker" effect.
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I saw those, I didn't know how they would work. I'M going to avoid the pacemaker test as I'm absolutely terrified of electric shock.
 
CB919ER said:
Since I'm getting spark from the coil to the block I'm going to get a new distributor and rotor, probably get new copper plug wires while I'm at it. It'll Thursday before I can install them.

I saw those, I didn't know how they would work. I'M going to avoid the pacemaker test as I'm absolutely terrified of electric shock.
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Then paint the top of the spring ear on the rotor and turn the engine over a few times and see if the top button rubs the painting off.
 
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