No Spark

Aloha,
Do the point spark? Or you donʻt get spark at the spark plug?
Did you just lay the spark plugs atop the engine and check for spark?
Did you check the if you had spark in any of the spark plug? or they all not firing?
Could it be a cracked distributor body?
Let us know?
 
I would first check to see if the ignition switch is broken. Test for power on the coil side of the switch. If you have power on coil side, turn the switch on and check for power on the distributor side of the switch. The power must pass through the switch for the distributor to have power. If you have power on the distributor side of the switch you can then check to see if you have power to the distributor. Check the wire to the distributor by unscrewing the wire from the distributor and check for power at the end of the plug . If not, you have a broken wire from the switch to the distributor. If you have power to the end of the plug, you may have a short in the pigtail wire from the lower plate to the points. You can check this with an inexpensive multi-meter. Put the multi-meter on the ohm scale. Place a piece of paper folded into square between the points. Turn on the key. Place one probe of the multi-meter on the open point arm and the other to the distributor body. If it reads zero you have a short in the distributor. This can be caused by the ignition wire screwed in too far, the pigtale connection is shorting out at the upper plate or to the distributor body, or the pigtail wire is broken. I would only screw in the plug in 3 turns as stated above. If that does not fix the problem, try replacing or repositioning the pigtail wire. Good Luck!!!
 
Caution: Be sure you do not have car battery voltage present when you probe any
terminals/connections using the OHMS scale on a multi-meter to check for
opens/shorts. Else, you may blow the meter.
 
Hey all, and thanks so much for all of the information! I have done the tests that Tom recommended, and have come to the conclusion that the ignition switch is burned out. Now there is one in the mail.

This place is a wealth of knowledge that I wish I had utilized years ago.

Thanks again!
 
I was giving you things to check without having to take anything apart. Always do the quick easy checks first. Now that you think it's the switch, you should confirm that by removing the 4 panel screws and pulling the panel forward enough to check the switch as Dick just mentioned. My repro switch touched the gas tank and shorted the voltage before it could reach the points. I fixed that by bending the switch terminals to the side. My other repro switch went bad by the contact having intermittent connections. I took the switch apart and modified it some to make a more positive contact.

I do have a good original popout that I will install when I restore the car.
 
Anteek 29--You are so right. I must have thought too hard on this one. Using the ohm scale you do not want any current from the distributor. The multi -meter has its power from the 9v battery. Thanks for catching that mistake.
 
30aadoodlebug said:
Hey all, and thanks so much for all of the information! I have done the tests that Tom recommended, and have come to the conclusion that the ignition switch is burned out. Now there is one in the mail.

This place is a wealth of knowledge that I wish I had utilized years ago.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Just curious if you jumped the switch out and made sure it would run before you ordered the new switch?
Glad you found it.
 
Check the rubbing block on the movable point. I've seen them so worn that the point shorts to ground. Does the ammeter move when you turn the ignition on?
 
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