No fuel to fuel pump

C

casper_wcx13

Junior Member
I replaced the radiator and now i am not getting any fuel to the carburetor. I cannot find the fuse for it as suggested online. I am trying to fix all the prior owners mistakes.
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Assuming no add-on electric fuel pump there is no fuse. The stock pump is mechanical. There appears to be a filter (the brass object in the rubber hose in the photo). I would disconnect the hose above the filter and crank the engine to see if you're getting fuel to that point. If yes than then replace the filter if that's what it is. We need some history on the car if possible, such as any fuel lines replaced, etc.
 
Dobie Gillis said:
Assuming no add-on electric fuel pump there is no fuse. The stock pump is mechanical. There appears to be a filter (the brass object in the rubber hose in the photo). I would disconnect the hose above the filter and crank the engine to see if you're getting fuel to that point. If yes than then replace the filter if that's what it is. We need some history on the car if possible, such as any fuel lines replaced, etc.
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No fuel is getting to the bigger fuel filter right next to to carburetor when i crank it. I will try and see if the brass one is the one giving me problems.


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casper_wcx13 said:
No fuel is getting to the bigger fuel filter right next to to carburetor when i crank it. I will try and see if the brass one is the one giving me problems.


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Click to expand...


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I removed the hose and fuel squirted a little out of the filter but i dont think its enough pressure to make it up to the second filter then into the carburetor.
 
OK, now remove the rubber hose that has the brass piece in it (I don't think that's a filter now, it looks like a hose coupler) and crank again to see what comes directly out of the pump. If you still get only a small amount of fuel disconnect the inlet hose at the pump and blow compressed air into the hose after loosening/removing the gas cap. There could be some trash/crud in the line from the tank. The other possibility (remote) is that you created an air leak in one of the rubber hoses while replacing the radiator hoses. Do you have any idea of the age/condition of the rubber fuel hoses?
 
Dobie Gillis said:
OK, now remove the rubber hose that has the brass piece in it (I don't think that's a filter now, it looks like a hose coupler) and crank again to see what comes directly out of the pump. If you still get only a small amount of fuel disconnect the inlet hose at the pump and blow compressed air into the hose after loosening/removing the gas cap. There could be some trash/crud in the line from the tank. The other possibility (remote) is that you created an air leak in one of the rubber hoses while replacing the radiator hoses. Do you have any idea of the age/condition of the rubber fuel hoses?
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The hoses are old i am going to replace them right now when i go to the autoparts store. I will keep u updated as i try n figure this thing out.


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no matter where the problem is, I would also replace that plastic fuel filter next to the carb. with a metal one. that clear plastic filter has the possibility of getting hot and maybe melting enough to cause a leak and potential fire, being that close to the metal parts of the engine. it does not look to be supported by anything other than the rubber fuel hose. just my opinion
 
Alaska Jim said:
no matter where the problem is, I would also replace that plastic fuel filter next to the carb. with a metal one. that clear plastic filter has the possibility of getting hot and maybe melting enough to cause a leak and potential fire, being that close to the metal parts of the engine. it does not look to be supported by anything other than the rubber fuel hose. just my opinion
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Im doing that also [emoji1303]


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Are you sure that the fuel lines connected to the pump aren't backwards. On mine, the lower hole is connected to the line that comes from the gas tank. There might be "IN" and "OUT" markings, but some pumps don't have it.
 
casper_wcx13 said:
Im doing that also [emoji1303]


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Moved the fuel filter and added new fuel hoses. Finally got it running now i just need to get it tuned up. The air fuel mixture ratio on the carb seems a lil off , for a v8 it dont accelerate too fast. Ive tried setting it to the manufacturers specs bit it still seems a lil off. Any other info on what i can do to make it run better .
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First check that the points are in good condition, and set to the proper gap, next set the timing. If you do not have a timing light, disconnect and plug the vac. line to the distributor, and using a vac. gauge set to highest vac reading and then back it off a bit until it does not ping. then adjust to specified idle speed then adjust the mixture screws one at a time by turning them in until the engine starts to stumble then back it out just enough to get it to smooth out. this should get you good results if done properly and the engine and carb. are in good condition. I am sure others will correct me where I am wrong.
 
Daves55Sedan said:
Are you sure that the fuel lines connected to the pump aren't backwards. On mine, the lower hole is connected to the line that comes from the gas tank. There might be "IN" and "OUT" markings, but some pumps don't have it.
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The fuel lines look backwards to me too. On the Y-block fuel pumps I have the line from the tank goes into the pump fitting toward the front side of the housing and the fuel line up to the carburetor comes from the more rear side of the pump housing.
casper_wcx13 said:
... The air fuel mixture ratio on the carb seems a lil off , for a v8 it dont accelerate too fast. Ive tried setting it to the manufacturers specs bit it still seems a lil off. Any other info on what i can do to make it run better .
Click to expand...
casper_wcx13,
What carburetor and distributor are on the engine?

If it has the original style Loadomatic distributor from '55 it may need some extra attention.
Example photos below.
They are totally vacuum dependent for the ignition timing advance. If the vacuum line from the carburetor or the diaphragm in the vacuum canister is leaking you won't get any timing advance.
Also if the points breaker plate is stuck and can't turn, it needs cleaning & lubrication.
.
 

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dmsfrr said:
The fuel lines look backwards to me too. On the Y-block fuel pumps I have the line from the tank goes into the pump fitting toward the front side of the housing and the fuel line up to the carburetor comes from the more rear side of the pump housing.

casper_wcx13,
What carburetor and distributor are on the engine?

If it has the original style Loadomatic distributor from '55 it may need some extra attention.
Example photos below.
They are totally vacuum dependent for the ignition timing advance. If the vacuum line from the carburetor or the diaphragm in the vacuum canister is leaking you won't get any timing advance.
Also if the points breaker plate is stuck and can't turn, it needs cleaning & lubrication.
.
Click to expand...


If its not one thing or another smh i went to take it to the mechanic and could not get it started . The battery is fully charged it just clicks now and wont crank over


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casper_wcx13 said:
If its not one thing or another smh i went to take it to the mechanic and could not get it started . The battery is fully charged it just clicks now and wont crank over
Click to expand...
If the battery really is fully charged...
Any of the battery cable terminals could be dirty, including the ground cable to the block/engine.
If your '55 still has the 6 volt setup it needs large "0" size battery & starter cables.
 

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dmsfrr said:
If the battery really is fully charged...
Any of the battery cable terminals could be dirty, including the ground cable to the block/engine.
If your '55 still has the 6 volt setup it needs large "0" size battery & starter cables.
Click to expand...


Its been converted to 12 volts


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casper_wcx13 said:
The voltage on both connections on the external resistor glow bright red but the connection going to the distributor cap is very dim. Could the resistor be bad ?
Click to expand...
If the ballast resistor is bad or has an open connection you won't get any voltage on the "+" terminal of the ignition coil, unless the ignition key switch is in the "Start" position & triggering the starter solenoid.

Diagram below...
 

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