I just installed my crankshaft with all new bearings and when I tried to pry the crank to one end or the other to check for end play, there doesn’t seem to be any at all. The crank rotates freely and everything seems fine. When I got the block back from the machine shop I marked the caps so I would know the direction to put them back on. Perhaps they were wrong already? How can I tell if the caps are on the right direction? Are the bearing tangs on the same side or opposite sides of the shaft? I was using a set of feelers to check the end play.
No endplay in crank
- Thread starter Stoker280
- Start date
51woodie
Well-known member
You need to pry the crankshaft forward, and measure between the crankshaft and the rear main bearing. (min max is .002-.008 thou.) If you don't have that, you will need a bearing with a thinner flange. Also, confirm that there are no burrs or dirt that would keep the rear bearing positioned toward the front of the block.
Mart
Well-known member
The rear main you can't get mixed up.
The center one has the bolts centered, and the tangs go to the same side as the tangs in the block side of the bearing.
The front one has the bolts slightly offset and the same applies, the tangs both go on one side.
I showed it in one or two of my videos.
If it turns it should be ok. 2 thou isn't much. Try loosening the rear main and giving the crank a couple of controlled taps with a soft hammer to ensure everything is seated. Make sure the last taps are towards the front of the block and retighten the rear main. then check for clearance.
Mart.
The center one has the bolts centered, and the tangs go to the same side as the tangs in the block side of the bearing.
The front one has the bolts slightly offset and the same applies, the tangs both go on one side.
I showed it in one or two of my videos.
If it turns it should be ok. 2 thou isn't much. Try loosening the rear main and giving the crank a couple of controlled taps with a soft hammer to ensure everything is seated. Make sure the last taps are towards the front of the block and retighten the rear main. then check for clearance.
Mart.
Talkwrench
Well-known member
alanwoodieman
Well-known member
I use a rawhide hammer to bump the crankshaft to the rear and again to the front to check for clearance. It does take a pretty good thump to move it. be sure to have the bolt/nuts torqued to proper lbs before doing this
Ronnieroadster
Well-known member
Stoker I have found when using new bearings from Cleveite or King there's usually no end play. To me it looks like some manufacturers have added extra material thinking the crank will be worn so now the bearing thrust surface is now made thicker causing this problem..
To correct this issue what I do is carefully sand the thrust surface using a fine grade wet dry sand paper placed on a flat surface plate or a good alternative you can use a flat piece of glass. I make sure the same side is being sanded on each half so when they are back on the cap the clearance gained by sanding can be measured. It can be the front surface or the rear surface I only chose one side not both when I do this. It takes at lest three try's before the minimum clearance is gained being careful to not remove more material then needed.
Caution if the engine is run with no end play the bearings will grab the crankshaft causing a spun bearing which then becomes an expensive repair usually requiring line honing or boring to fix the damaged caused to the block and cap. Don't ask me how i know but it was part of the learning curve.
Ronnieroadster