No Brake Lights

mike42

Well-known member
Evening…….all of a sudden I have no brake lights on my ‘40 Sedan. After checking the wiring I made up a jumper wire and plugged into each pig tail wire off the master cylinder brake switch and lights came on immediately ! Bought a new brake switch and still no stop lights ! I have headlights, parking lights, and taillights, no stop lights.

Any suggestions ?

Thx…..Mike
 
if jumper power was from a different source (battery) you may have lost power to the brake switch
 
No……I just made up a 4” wire to connect the two pigtail wires that attach to the master cylinder brake switch. Bang…..the stop lights came on immediately ! Strange !
 
Look at the above post from KUBE on "40 Brake Lamp Switch". Took him five switches to find one to work.
 
I agree with deuce lover, use a mechanical switch. I've always used the switch from the early Chevrolet pickups and mount them to the upper floor boards. These switches are also readily available at parts stores or on e-Bay.
 
Mike. I had the brake light pressure switch fail on my '46 Coupe about five years ago, and I replaced it with a Harley Davidson OEM switch, P/N 72023-51E
It has worked perfectly with good reliability and no leaks.
 
This is the one I got from Amazon. Been over a year and it still operating perfectly.

WQSING Hydraulic Rear Brake Light Switch DS-272191 Compatible with Harley Davidson Sportster Softail Touring Dyna Super Electra Glide Road King FXR Deluxe Fat Boy Low Rider Heritage 72023-51A
 
Check the voltage going to the switch. I had only three volts going to the switch. Enough to light the lights if jumped but would not light the brake lights if hooked up to the switch.
 
mike42 - i'd try the switch Kube recommends first, simple R&R. I did the mechanical switch years ago, and no issues.
 
For my correct original car, I would never add an obviously wrong mechanical switch. Some years ago replaced the hydraulic switch with a Harley switch like the one recommended by Kube in #9 above. Works great. Activates with much less pressure. But one problem:

Harley switch has male spade terminals. Ford wiring is female bullet terminals. You will need to cut off your wire terminals and replace with female spade terminals.

Bothered me to cut the original wires, so made up a 1" long transition, spade ends to bullet ends. Have to accept 1" of rigged, non-correct under the car for drivability. Some future owner can easily put it back to stock.
 
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Replace the switch.I stopped using those MC switches or in line hydraulic switches years ago as they are a pain.The lever switch sold by Speedway ($7,now 11.99) mounted on the frame ,easy to mount and works every time.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Mechanical-Brake-Pedal-Light-Switch,1972.html


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For my correct original car, I would never add an obviously wrong mechanical switch. Some years ago replaced the hydraulic switch with a Harley switch like the one recommended by Kube in #9 above. Works great. Activates with much less pressure. But one problem:

Harley switch has male spade terminals. Ford wiring is female bullet terminals. You will need to cut off your wire terminals and replace with female spade terminals.

Bothered me to cut the original wires, so made up a 1" long transition, spade ends to bullet ends. Have to accept 1" of rigged, non-correct under the car for drivability. Some future owner can easily put it back to stock.

I did the same. Just made little jumpers with female spade on one side and female bullet on the other
 
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Guys.....thanks for all the input. I've been offline due to storms up here in Northern Michigan. What a mess we've gone through !!

So....before the power went out.....as some of you have mentioned.....try more than one new switch !!!!! Well......after trying 2.....the 3rd one was a charm. I have no idea where the other two were made, but the last one was made in Mexico and all of a sudden I have tail lights again !! Damn relief I can tell you.

Thanks again to all for your help and assistance.


Regards, Mike
 
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