Nickel copper brake.fuel lines.

I've never had any problems using steel tubing for my brake lines.
$5.00 per foot? What a joke
 
Once you use it you will see its far from a joke. It also works fine with the stock ford fitting on the fuel lines. Its forgiveness on forming is far better then the steel lines.
 
Pete,
Is that rule for copper or nickel/copper (kunifer)? As the two are different.
Why outlaw the kunifer? I have never seen it fail, never. Have seen steel fail, by rust or cracking. Kunifer is not regular copper tube, it's much superior.
Martin.
 
I agree with Scooder. Cunifer tubing is not copper tubing. It is an alloy with copper, nickle and steel . It does not work harden and crack like copper tubing.
John
 
scooder said:
Pete,
Is that rule for copper or nickel/copper (kunifer)? As the two are different.
Why outlaw the kunifer? I have never seen it fail, never. Have seen steel fail, by rust or cracking. Kunifer is not regular copper tube, it's much superior.
Martin.
Click to expand...

The rule says no copper so I would interpret it as anythng with copper in it.
Talk to the tech committee for a variance.
 
I guess that mean brass brake fittings, manifolds, nuts etc aren't allowed by the rules either. 8^)

Jack E/NJ
 
Well if that's the case, I guess I won't be participating in any model A hill-climb contests afterall. Not even with all steel cable mechanical brakes. That's if I had a Model A, which I don't yet.

Jack E/NJ
 
I just looked through NHRA rules and it only specifies metallic lines and max 12" non-metallic fuel lines from tank to engine. Nothing about copper. I wonder if there are other rule books out there. FAA regulations specify Aluminum, steel and titanium lines, but I would guess it would have to be inspected.

Cunifer™ is seamless, copper nickel alloy DOT approved brake line that is as strong as steel, completely rust proof and is easier to work with than any other brake line on the market. I suppose since it's DOT approved that would put it up there in terms of reliability.

I have looked online and still haven't come across any race sanctioning bodies that specify not using copper lines. Pete, can you get a source?
 
As a follow up to my earlier post of Cunifer, Fedhill's alloy brake/fuel line. Although it is expensive at $5.00 a foot in small lengths, which they offer, 3', 6', The longer the length, the price is less per foot. 12', $4.80, 18' S4.20, and 25', $3.60 a foot. The stuff from China that AGS sells through NAPA is about $1.00 a foot. You get what you pay for if when you understand price vs cost. What does it cost you when there is a brake or fuel line leak from inferior materials that make a poor flare, or the flare does not conform to the seat.
 
back in the 90's i was at a body shop in california and the guy was cleaning up the original brake lines to reinstall on a 55 chevy. we dont do that here in the rust belt, brake lines can rot in 15 or 20 years. i once used stainless on a project, wrecked two flairing tools and finally borrowed a hydraulic tool from a friend. it sure looked nice when done, but never again. this stuff sounds interesting
 
I used Cu/Ni brake line from NAPA on my '37 "Brand X" several years ago and have logged lots of miles on the car, including a 3800-mile round trip out to Rapid City. SD and on into Wyoming. Super easy to straighten, flare & run. I wouldn't use anything else.
 
the problem I had with the ACS stuff from napa is that you cant bend tight radius with it unlike the Fedhill stuff which will bend just as tight as steel brake tubing.

the AGS flares OK so if your ok with longer radius bends its OK but I prefer and use Fedhill.
 
Just a note: If using an Eastwood turret type flaring tool I found it doesn't like tubing that is too soft. I bought some nickel / copper stuff off the net and yeah too soft. The local stuff I get which by the way worked out cheaper can still be bend by hand good to work with and flared well. I don't know the makeup of it, it has a olive green coating on it..?
 
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