Nice surprise, front crossmember

LSGUN

LSGUN

Senior Member
crack2.jpg


crack.jpg


A few shots of the underside of my '30 Coupe front crossmember. Doesn't look nearly as bad as others I've seen on here. The rest of the crossmember looks great, I'll guess I'll pull the rad/front end to get a better look up top. Maybe I can weld them up but the metal looks pretty fatigued. Might have to graft a new piece in.
 
We have experienced this many times. Clean the metal as throughly as possible, Vee-grind the crack, and then weld with good penetration. Grind & metalfinish the welds and you are good to go. As far as the square hole for the tie-bolt, take a piece of .500" brass square-stock to use as a form. Stick the brass stock up through the hole and weld around the brass where it is worn. You will find this will be the right size for the tie bolt when everything is metalfinished smooth.

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That one is easy because you at least have all the metal pieces.You can weld that with penetration clear through to the other side,that A frame metal welds like butter.I only have a wire feed welder,so it has to be perfectly clean to start.I weld the little locater holes to the sides of the center bolt hole shut.They are easier to drill out after then it is to try and save them.One thing to remember is,that car will probably never be run again with a loose spring as it was in the past to cause that.It will never get the abuse again it had in it;s past either.You'll be fine.
 
Keith True: You haven't driven on some of our Saskatchewan roads and highways. We are in the same oil boom as the North Dakotans and the increase of numerous heavy trucks plying our roads really rut, ripple and pound out the pavement! Just saying.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
We have experienced this many times. Clean the metal as throughly as possible, Vee-grind the crack, and then weld with good penetration. Grind & metalfinish the welds and you are good to go. As far as the square hole for the tie-bolt, take a piece of .500" brass square-stock to use as a form. Stick the brass stock up through the hole and weld around the brass where it is worn. You will find this will be the right size for the tie bolt when everything is metalfinished smooth.

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That's a good idea using the brass. I'll probably remove the rad and front stuff tomorrow to get a better look at what I'm dealing with crack wise.
 
Looks about like mine looks. Later this spring when I take the frame back down from the ceiling that will likely be one of the first things I tackle before taking the frame the rest of the frame apart for blasting and repainting. Rod
 
Finally had some time the other day to tear the front end down. Here are a few pics from the top, it looks like someone had tried to repair it in the past.

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There are a number of these cross members offered on EBAy at times. You may want to check on them and maybe think of replacing the one you have. If you do buy one off EBay, be sure you get a 30-31 type.
 
Mine was a little worse than the picture, I veed the cracks, tapped all the pieces down where they belong and welded it up. After grinding smooth I feel it is good as new and will outlast me.
 
RichPA said:
Mine was a little worse than the picture, I veed the cracks, tapped all the pieces down where they belong and welded it up. After grinding smooth I feel it is good as new and will outlast me.
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That's what I would do, sandblast the area, V the cracks, weld and grind smooth. It might be easier than changing the crossmember, if you use rivets.
 
I feel your pain, a few months ago I was where you are. My crossmember I thought was ruined but I posted it on this site and got the same replies that you are recieveing from many of the same awsome guys. I tried to locate a replacement crossmember but the ones I was finding needed work as well. I finally resorted to locating an experienced Tig welder who welded it up for me and I finished it. It was not as difficult as I expected it to be.
Here is a link to my post http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86101&highlight=crossmember+blues

You can do it!
 
Somebody sells reproduction cross members. It might be Snyder. There is one on the market that will lower the front end about an inch. I think lose u-bolts cause most of the damage. A piece of leather is suppose to be installed between the spring and the cross member.
 
the repair was done with poor penetration, most likely the crack was not V'd out. I have repaired many of these with good results, using the same technique Brent described. If you are not much of a welder or not skilled at welding upside down, find a certified welder. It's worth what he would charge for the quality of work and piece of mind.
 
I've finally had some time to work on this a little bit. I'm a college student and have been swamped with summer school classes. I v-ground and welded the top side last month and v-ground and burned in the bottom side tonight. It looks like I have good penetration.
 
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I am not a welding expert but it looks like you do NOT have good penetration. I would do as Brent suggested and V-grind from the top and reweld. It looks like a lot of spotting from the heat marks on the top of the crossmember, which indicated it is not a hot continuous weld. V the top very well and put a good hot weld on it, dress smooth and it will be fine... The key to a good fix is doing it right the first time...
I would NOT replace the crossmember... it is not bad enough to destroy the integrity of the original placement and rivets of the crossmember.

Larry S
 
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