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big job

big job

Well-known member
I guess its true about all the war stories people did to these back then. Using
rocks or wood drills fixin valves. Seats so far being concentric with the guides,
I thought my mill DRO took a dump. Hard to beleive runout could be measured with a yard stick. Hard to beleive counter boring 8 seats took two days due to
boring bars dont like interupted cuts. (like egged big time) anyways thats done.
Passed my test we use the shop vac on the ports, havent even lapped em yet.
So the question is, adjustable lifters. going to be a big phone bill. They advertize
them but nobodys got them. Thats telling me they are made across the pond?
So anyone know of a supplier that has them.
thanks sam
 

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I don't have a set but do you need standard or OS? I can call a couple of people here in Oregon and see what they have, if they do I'll pass their number on to you.
 
Have you tried all the usual suspects? Lang's, Chaffin's, Bob's, Snyder's, Birdhaven, Smith & Jones, Model T Ranch, etc.
 
More phone calls for lifters, nobody stocks them for std. bore. So with no choice the
origionals are going back in, problem is there is like a .030 lash. I dont want to recut the
seats cause I got them perfect. I sit staring at this how in hell do I make a longer valve?
Then I had a flashback, wait a minute, big Y block (Lincoln) like 332s trucks had exhaust rotators,
tore the shop apart looking, and found six. Off to Napa, they cant find any listing. Belittling, for a machinist asking another machinist for help but a shop right down the road dont know the shop but, I brought a valve, and the guy said Oh you need these.
He stocks packs of eight. They are cups with shims used on race engines they build.
Results are with these the lash is right back to zero. I do have an old jig no more than a clamped sort of valve guide to the grinder. I always lash flatheads with out the timing
gear on so I get the true bottom of the cam heal. First lash without valve springs, then with valve springs. Then another jig to run in and recheck lash turning around 100 rpms.
to simulate a running engine. This shop has been doing this for 75 yrs. ny father on the left in the 40's
 

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Did you get the message I sent with the contact information of a guy that has a set of standard lifters in stock?
 
Oh no, redmodlet, I keep forgetting to look up there for pms. anyways its back together.
thanks
 

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You went through all of that meticulous work and used exhaust gaskets instead of the proper rings and glands?
 
Doug Money said:
You went through all of that meticulous work and used exhaust gaskets instead of the proper rings and glands?
Click to expand...

Huh, I have rings and glands, theres no leaks. You gotta try the shop vac
trick. stick it in the carb then, the exhaust pipe and listen while turning over the crank.
 
The ones Doug is referring to are junk, (green or silver) especially if just flat with no alignment rings. Use the alignment glands and individual coppr rings which will keep the Ex manifold from warping. Honest! ws

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Bill is totally correct. The flat gaskets usually indicate that the exhaust manifold is warped & the glands no longer line up. There is very little more frustration that can be eliminated for $85 than a leaking manifold. New threads are a bonus!

Model T Ford Exhaust Manifold

Replace your Model T Ford exhaust manifold with a nice top quality U.S. made manifold. This replacement exhaust manifold will bolt up just like the old original. Fits to a "T"!! U.S.A.
(Snyder's) Part Number T-3060-B Price $85.00 / ea.
 
Thanks guys, what can I say, the old school old man needs gasket, gets one from Napa.
All I know we straight edged them and were good. Or we fly cut it heres a 272 Y manifold
that was way of just eyeballin it.
 

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Your manifold is probably flat as shown by your straight edge but could be warped as shown in this picture. When this happens the recesses for the glands in the manifold & the block do not line up. The flat gaskets are the short term fix but they always leak. With a jig & a lot of heat they sometimes can be straightened. At $85 it seems the best route to install a new one. If it is not warped it will save a lot of future trouble to install the glands & copper crush rings.

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All I can say 'right now' it runs fine and we painted each exaust port and the paint burned
even. Thats what we use to do on Detroit Diesels.
 
With all due respect, what they are trying to tell you is yes it will run fine until you need a manifold because the rings are missing. Then you get to spend the money on $85 on a new manifold, or you can just put rings and glands in now for a few bucks. And no, it is a Model T not a Detroit Diesel.
 
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