newly rebuilt and a knock

As mentioned in post #16 use a mechanics stethoscope. long hardwood dowel or a long screwdriver pressed to various areas of the engine and to your ear to localize the location of the knock.
Resist the urge to open the engine up trying to find the knock as your "builder" may say that you have voided the warranty by doing so.
 
samsonized said:
how would you know if the oil pump was working
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There is a small pipe plug on the rt side of the block about 1 inch above the pan gasket surface in line with the oil pump/distributor shaft center line.If you take that plug out and crank it over oil should squirt out that hole if the pump is working.May be best to take the spark plugs out and crank it over with the hand crank.That should really be done before a new engin
e is started anyway.
 
I would re-time the engine if you had the distributor out. Do you have a high compression head with the engine to far advanced? Do not over tighten the distributor nut and screw on the side of the engine.
 
If you cannot take it back, take off the valve cover and see what is going on with the distributor drive. Know that will probably void any warranty. Guy will say it is your fault. but he is saying that anyway.
 
Suggest you state your location. Maybe someone close with more experience will respond to come and help you diagnose the problem.
 
I have a friend who rebuilt an engine, replaced the distributor/oil pump drive gear with an .004 oversized gear...it caused a knock! Also maybe the spring in the valve chamber is not in correctly. Best would be to take the motor back!
 
lrf said:
Best would be to take the motor back!
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I think it would be best to decide what is causing the knock. You need not touch the timing, maybe just make sure of the timing. You already have the ability to retard the spark and eliminate timing knock.

Where are you located?
 
Listening to see which general area it's coming from from seems like sound advice.

One afternoon my car sounded like it was trying to throw a rod, or several. Could not pinpoint it with a stethoscope. Long story short the nut holding the cam gear had come loose.

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I am in the same camp as Old Ugly. The rebuilder should take a more active interest.

Here is an idea: Make a video of the knock and send it to the rebuilder.

Since you pulled the distributor and replaced it and the knock happened afterward, then logic would say it is related to the distributor. If the screw that holds the distributor in the engine is too tight, it can bind the shaft and cause a knock. Look there first. You can pull the distributor back out and try turning the shaft with your fingers to see if it is binding. Look for witness marks on the shaft that might indicate where the problem is. If the distributor was hard to push in, there is something wrong with the shaft. If you have access to another distributor, you could try that, but you would have to time that distributor.

Of course there are a bunch of other possible sources of a knock, but the evidence points to the distributor.
 
i do not know if it was knocking before i took the distributor out. the rebuilder said there was no knock when he ran it but i had to take the distributor out to put the ignition lock cable in and i did not try to start it previous to that
 
As others have said, state your location. I had a problem that I was trying to solve on this forum and a fellow spoke up that wasn't too far away. He drove to my home and helped me fix the problem in a couple minutes. You have too much money in this engine to let the rebuilder off the hook. First check EVERYTHING that was done after the engine came out of the box from the rebuilder. That's where he will lay the blame.

John































John
 
Do not remove and ship the engine. Your rebuilder needs to hear the noise with everything as is. He can find a lot of excuses otherwise.
 
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