Newer brakes on 40--need some help

RPM

Senior Member
I am installing 56 F100 front brakes and 66 Bronco rear drums (12" and 11" respectively) on a 40 pickup. Both these newer brake setups use the smaller 3/16" lines (stock 40 was 1/4"). I plan to re-plumb whole chassis. Questions--Will 3/16" pipe be adequate? What dual master cylinder works best or should I use stock 40 with reducer fittings? I will be using stock pedal under floor. Are residual pressure valves and proportioning valves necessary ? Would a 67 Mustang dual master for a drum brake model work if I adapt the 2 bolt master to 3 bolt pedal? Want to keep number of fitting to a minimum of coarse and have good pedal feel. Your ideas welcome. RPM
 
Use the 67-68 Mustang dual cylinder for drum brakes. If the master cylinder sits below the wheel cylinders you will need to use the residual valves. An adjustable proportioning valve is always good if you are using a big/little tire combination. Used a similar set up on my 35 years ago.
I now have a 40 pickup with F-100's on the front and a Mustang rear end. It's using the stock master cylinder. It stops fine, but I'm converting to discs this winter with a dual master cylinder. I prefer the discs as the F-100's do have a tendency to fade a bit when they get hot.
 
TJ thanks for the reply. I do wonder why the residual valves are necessary as the master is below wheel cylinders on a stock 40 too and Henry didn't use them. Am I missing something? RPM
 
The stock master cylinder has a built in check valve(residual valve). Most dual cylinders do not have one as they are firewall mounted..
 
Give Engineered Components Inc. (ECI) a call and ask for Ralph. I'm using their disc-drum set-up on my 41 pickup. Dual master cylinder, residual valves, a metering valve in front for disc, original rear end. Stops on a dime No proportioning valve needed with the m/c used in their kit.
 
Last edited:
I like the idea of front disk brakes, I have several friends with the early ford hydrolic braked and find they are marginal at best in today's traffic. I think the front disk is a better and cheaper solution especially for those that weren't to up grade from mechanical, Your just adding hyd to an already obsolete braking system, Speedway has a very reasonable conversion kit, among others.
 
Give Engineered Components Inc. (ECI) a call and ask for Ralph. I'm using their disc-drum set-up on my 41 pickup. Dual master cylinder, residual valves, a metering valve in front for disc, original rear end. Stops on a dime No proportioning valve needed with the m/c used in their kit.

:D
You need some square backed spindles for their brackets. I love the disc setup I have on the 36 woodie. It uses a Ford disc and chevy caliper.
 
My questions were about installing the DRUM system. I can give you a dozen reasons why I chose this drum combo, but it would be quite boring.. I am familiar with disc brakes, been building / running 4 wheel disc setups since the 60's. I just REMOVED a 4 WHEEL DISC system from my 40 PU (had Eldorado park brake calipers/Mark8 rotors on rear). Want to run stock Henry wheels (that take small 40 original cap) as wheels fit drums but not disc, therefore the later Bendix drum chosen as original rims bolt right up. (plus new service parts are readily available including drums). Have you priced reproduction 40 drums lately? Or the old type vintage Lincoln drum setup complete?!!! Or adjusted the pain in the a-- 40 set up lately?? Anyway, I've heard a 67 Mustang drum brake master has built in residual valves? Will run smaller lines and proportioning valve. Speedway looks to have most of the parts. RPM
 
Back
Top