Newbie with some questions...

Dad's Dream

Dad's Dream

Junior Member
Hello All,

I just inheirited a 1930 Town Sedan that belonged to my Dad before he passed. I know nothing about it (or A's in general) except that it has been restored at some point in it's life. I had no interest in A's but since it was my Dad's I decided I wanted to keep it - and I kind of fell in love with it while working on it. I was able to get it running last time I was up to see my Mom but have discovered some things that need attention.

Before I go to far, let me say that the car is located in Saginaw, Michigan and I live in San Antonio, Texas so I can't just go out and look at it. I plan on going up at the end of the month to work on it and prep it for transport down to Texas. So I need to order parts now to make sure they're there when I get there.

I need to buy a new battery box support bracket as the old one does not have a "plate" for the battery to sit on, just a cross bar. Are the support brackets bolted or welded in? Also, there is nothing securing the battery in/on the bracket, should I get the battery hold brackets that hold the corners of the battery, or would the battery hold down frame be better?

Next thing, the radiator is leaking. As soon as I pour water in, it comes out the bottom driver's side of the radiator - but I don't think it's from the lower radiator hose. Where is the overflow tube drain at? Also, if I remember correctly, in the filler neck the overflow tube is facing forward (the wrong way, right?) and I don't think there's any baffle in it. Can I buy a baffle somewhere or do I have to make one?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Gerry
 
Gerry: My suggestion would be to not do anything to the car while it remains so remote. Most transport services and even open trailers, if you plan to move it yourself, have a winch available to load the car on the trailer. Then, once home, you can address the issues as they arise.

To answer your questions, the plate on the battery is spot welded in place. You can buy just the plate and weld, or have it welded, in place. I prefer the hold down frame but they do present a grounding issue where the negative lead passes over the hold down frame on it's way to the starter terminal.

The overflow tube does run down the aft drivers side of the core and you may be seeing excess water draining as you fill the radiator. The baffle is important and it would probably best to have a radiator shop address that issue but it is something you could make and install yourself. You would have to remove the top tank. Gar Williams
 
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Hello Gerry, first of all let me welcome you to a great hobby and you have found the right place for answers to a lot of your questions here on Fordbarn just a great group of people! I to am a newbie also just having my first 29 Tudor just under a year and just now getting to drive it and working all the "kinks" out of it! As for the battery mine was just like yours I bought a bottom plate that fits in the bottom I think it originally was welded but I just ran self tapping screws down in mine for mine is a driver I just needed it to hold and I got the powder coated square hold down bracket make sure you have the screw in studs and nuts for the top. About the radiator my overflow tube comes out on the drivers side at the bottom as for the baffle I can't answer that one for you but I would think that a good radiator shop could install one also need to clean and rod it out if possible just in case but if it is basket case just try and by a new one they are expensive but it could save you a lot of headaches believe me, but try and salvage yours first. As for the parts I have bought from seems like all the different parts houses and I prefer Brattons and Synders both have good quality parts or I think so. Robert DeBord
 
Welcome, I am a newbie also but a few years in, also had a car in vt. and I live 200 miles away so I understand the frustration.. I don't think I can answer your questions, but I will offer some advise. Check the lower radiator outlet pipe for a pet-**** that could have been left open. Also check the bottom of the radiator for one. I purchased the battery hold down frame as it keeps it from wandering and you don't want any shorts. I would put a "plate" under it again for stability, wood would do. Now the hard part , how are you gonna transport it home? If it is being trailered home just make sure the tires hold air and the wheel bearings are greased and free to rotate you can then drive it on a trailer or have it winched on. You don't need water just to move it 20feet but do not run it longer than a couple of minutes. Make sure there is oil in the engine. Now if you are thinking of driving it down or even flat towing you got a lot of work to do! Besides all of the above you will need spare tires [yes plural] water in the radiator replace grease in water pump,transmission,rear end and lube everything check and rebuild brakes etc. so what I am saying is Don't try to drive or flat tow it... It will cause a lot of grief, worry , anxiety, and money if you have a vehicle that can, rent a car hauler and have a fun adventure maybe a friend is up for a road trip. See if you can contact ayone where you live who is active in a club to help answer your questions. Hope you enjoy and have a ball ! p.s. I named my tudo miss elizabeth after my mom and each time I am with her mom is there in spirit.....
 
agree with all the above: welcome to the family! just be ready-one leads to two-two to three etc. etc.
a little trick i use when adding water to the radiator: take a golf tee and install into the over flow pipe until the radiator is full, BE SURE TO REMOVE THE "T". keeps from making a mess in the garage.
b.j.
 
Gerry, welcome to a great hobby. Sounds like you have a great start.

About the battery thing. Mine was so rusted and the plate was missing. So I just bought a whole new battery box and got the hold down top. Works great. The reason I suggest the whole new thing is that often times the bolts that hold the hold down top are rusted or stripped and you have a hard time to bolt down the hold down thing. Plus getting the hold down top holds the battery very solid in the frame and if you have to remove the battery, it is a lot easer. Worth the few extra $ (maybe an extra $10) to do all of this. Be sure you get a good quality box because the one I got I had to "remake" to get it to fit but after a bit of rework it is doing a great job.
 
First off, thanks for all the responses.

I guess I wasn't very clear during my first post (which is pretty normal for me).

For the battery box, I want to purchase the entire battery support box, not just the plate (see the attachment). Does it bolt or weld in? I was going to purchase new cables and hold down brackets/frame anyways, so I thought I might as well buy the entire support box since it's only $19.

I think the radiator is only 5 or 6 years old - I found a receipt in the car's paperwork for a heavy duty radiator - so I don't think it's in need of service. But, I totally spaced on the petcock - I bet that's the leak, as it continues to leak after I've stopped pouring water in the radiator - thanks bobbycoke. I've spent hundreds of hours working on cars, but for some reason, I forget everything about them when I get near the A.

I will probably have a transport company haul it down to Texas, but if the transport truck is a tractor/trailer combo, it won't fit in my subdivision, so I'll need to be able to drive it a short distance (about a 1/4 mile). If it wasn't for that, I would just wait until it was here in Texas to work on it.

Again, thanks to everyone that replied.

Gerry
 

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Fred K,

Where do you recommend I buy the battery box from (or where should I NOT buy a box from). I would prefer not to have to "remake" the box I buy.

Thanks,

Gerry
 
BatteryTrayRepro.jpg

BatteryTrayE29.jpg

BatteryTray9.jpg

BatteryTray10.jpg


Here are some pictures to show why it's best to restore the ORIGINAL battery support. The first picture shows a junk repro part that will NOT fit the frame. Notice how the top is a straight fold, not a 90* formed corner to clear the frame. Unfortunately my friend doesn't remember where he bought it and he powerdercoated it before trying it for fit.

Use a cold chisel and angle grinder to remove the remains of the old bottom plate. Grind each of the old spot welds, but don't grind into the main support frame, then use the cold chisel to get between the two parts and knock the remains of the old plate off. Grind any remaining high spots off the old spot welds, but just grind until it's level with the frame. Sandblast the frame, then C-clamp the new plate to the frame. Use a marker to make 4 dots on each side, to show where each spot weld will go.

I only have a 110 volt spot welder and that's too small for this job. I went to the local high school and used the shop class 220 volt water cooled spot welder to make proper spot welds. As soon as you see the metal turn red out to a circle where it shows discoloration in thses pictures, you know the weld has proper penetration. It only takes a few seconds per weld.

None of the repro frames are near as nice as the original frame, but the repro plates I've used look and work just fine.

BTW, if you look carefully you will see that the second picture shows how most Model A support frames look. The last two pictures show a 1928 battery support with the forged ends welded on the top.
 
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Dad's Dream said:
Fred K,

Where do you recommend I buy the battery box from (or where should I NOT buy a box from). I would prefer not to have to "remake" the box I buy.

Thanks,

Gerry
Click to expand...

Gerry, the one I bought was like the one Tom shows a picture of. I think I bought it from Mac's. But I was able to get it to fit with some cutting away of tabs that fit on the frame and cross member. I did not try to restore my original because it was almost falling apart at the bends at the bottom so I had to do something else.

This is my experience. Maybe someone else knows where to buy a good one that fits. I do not know where to find a good one but maybe someone will get on the let you know who has one like the orginal.
 
Hi Gerry, 13 years ago I sold my 1930 Town Sedan to a man from Michigan. My Model A was painted Washington Blue and was a Canadian built A with the square head robertson screws in the dash and window moldings. Is this what your Dad's car has ??
 
Regarding transport ....

Regarding transport ....

If you want this to arrive on the same trailer it was loaded on
then a Broker is not the way to go

If you want this to arrive in the condition it was loaded onto
a trailer, then a Broker is not the way to go

Talk directly to whoever is doing the transport
Pay no deposit - settle up at drop off

Do not worry about it running, just make sure it
steers and that the tires hold air for the trip ;)

Allow time for someone to schedule connecting loads
so they can get to the pick up point and from the drop off point

4 to 6 weeks is a reasonable minimum amount of time


Jim
 

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Dad's Dream said:
I will probably have a transport company haul it down to Texas, but if the transport truck is a tractor/trailer combo, it won't fit in my subdivision, so I'll need to be able to drive it a short distance (about a 1/4 mile). If it wasn't for that, I would just wait until it was here in Texas to work on it.

Gerry
Click to expand...
'

Call AAA! My son had that problem we called AAA to have it towed a block.

I have to agree with the suggestions given having to do with getting it home before you work on it. You say you got it to run but for how long and did you drive it? Either way better safe then sorry.

PS it your Dad had any special tools for the A now is the time to look for them.
 
A lot of info to mill over here. All very good info.

Get it home, first off. That's way to far to drive it, so you will be transporting it. Unless that's your goal to drive it home. Think' work it out later.

Good luck and "great choice". Something about history that you can share with your late father. The connection will come apparent while your working on it. At least that' my experience.
 
Peter Pucak said:
Hi Gerry, 13 years ago I sold my 1930 Town Sedan to a man from Michigan. My Model A was painted Washington Blue and was a Canadian built A with the square head robertson screws in the dash and window moldings. Is this what your Dad's car has ??
Click to expand...

Peter,

Dad bought the car in Florida about 6 or 7 years ago. It's black with red wheels and a grey interior......can you tell by my description how much I know about A's:).

Gerry
 
Mike V. Florida said:
'

Call AAA! My son had that problem we called AAA to have it towed a block.

I have to agree with the suggestions given having to do with getting it home before you work on it. You say you got it to run but for how long and did you drive it? Either way better safe then sorry.

PS it your Dad had any special tools for the A now is the time to look for them.
Click to expand...

Mike,

I don't have AAA so that's out of the question. I plan on having it trailered to Texas - the safe way is always the best way.

I wish I had been able to spend more time going through my Dad's garage. I'm hoping that not too much has disappeared since the last time I was up there. When I've been able to get up there, I spend much of my time fixing things around the house, doing insurance/survivor benefit paperwork, and moving things for my Mom. Hopefully, this trip I'll be able to spend more time going through the garage looking for A related stuff.

Thanks for the catalog and book list, that's on my list of things to do/find.

Gerry
 
Batteryholder2.jpg

Batteryholder3.jpg

Batteryholder4.jpg


Here are more pictures showing the junk repro battery support compared to a good original support frame.

If the original frame is too far gone on the bottom under the plate, then I'd cut out the bad section and make a replacement for it, or cut and weld that portion from a repro part. You want to try to save as much of the original as possible, especially the top parts where it bolts to the frame.
 
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