Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
That green ****** fluid looks too thin. I'd drain it and buy some Mobil 636.
Newbie with several questions
- Thread starter Garagekulture13
- Start date
Garagekulture13
Senior Member
Transmission pictures. It appears the oil is coming from the holes where the shifting rods come through.
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Garagekulture13
Senior Member
I assume there should be a bolt there, lol.
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Garagekulture13
Senior Member
The emergency brake is not hooked up and it appears the pieces they hook to behind the wheels are not there. Also they brake light switch is intermittent and does not always work. Which switches do you all recommend?
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Garagekulture13
Senior Member
Here is the oil I am running in the trans. Also a picture of the end of the transmission.
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1955cj5
Well-known member
Snyder's and other vendors offer this to plug those transmission shift rail holes.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/front-******-seal
The instructions say it can be installed with the engine installed...might not be much fun though.
I'm told A & L parts offer the best brake light switch.
You need to call or email for a price list though..no online ordering..they are in Connecticut..
860-693-0112
anlel@aol.com
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/front-******-seal
The instructions say it can be installed with the engine installed...might not be much fun though.
I'm told A & L parts offer the best brake light switch.
You need to call or email for a price list though..no online ordering..they are in Connecticut..
860-693-0112
anlel@aol.com
Garagekulture13
Senior Member
I just ordered the plug for the transmission and a new radius ball from MAC's. But as far as the emergency brake I'm unsure. I really need to take the drum off and check to see if the emergency brake is even there.
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1955cj5
Well-known member
Just a thought on the engine oil leak...
I expect you have changed the engine oil and if you are like me you read that the oil pan capacity is 5 quarts....well, yes and no..
A completely dry or rebuilt engine takes about 5 quarts.
About one quart stays in the dip tray and is not indicated on the dip stick..and does not drain when the lower pan is drained.
An over filled engine will leak as there is no rear main seal like a more modern engine has.
So during an oil change add only about 4 quarts...some add less...
I expect you have changed the engine oil and if you are like me you read that the oil pan capacity is 5 quarts....well, yes and no..
A completely dry or rebuilt engine takes about 5 quarts.
About one quart stays in the dip tray and is not indicated on the dip stick..and does not drain when the lower pan is drained.
An over filled engine will leak as there is no rear main seal like a more modern engine has.
So during an oil change add only about 4 quarts...some add less...
1930artdeco
Well-known member
Welcome to the Barn! You just entered a great hobby. With the leaks you may want to pull the engine and ****** if you have the space, it does not take long. This way you can eliminate lots of potential problems and fix them once and for all. You also get to see what you have for an engine and ****** as far as bearings and gears go.
For the backing plates, if there is no opening for a hand brake lever then I think you have early 28 backing plates. If that is the case then they will need to be replaced with 29-31 backing plates so that you will have a parking brake that will work.
Mike
ps if you haven't already get into a club and get Les Andrews repair manuals.
For the backing plates, if there is no opening for a hand brake lever then I think you have early 28 backing plates. If that is the case then they will need to be replaced with 29-31 backing plates so that you will have a parking brake that will work.
Mike
ps if you haven't already get into a club and get Les Andrews repair manuals.
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
FWIW:
Looks like a few "mechanical" items were never 100% satisfactorily resolved on your Model A.
If you investigate, there may be a Model A Club nearby with a Model A member residing near you.
Every Model A Club has at least one (1) mechanical person who may be able to quickly "see" all of your unseen Model A problems, offer FREE advice, and within a short time you could have a prioritized "to-do" list that could save lots of time and still allow you to do repairs if so desired.
He could either come to your place ......... or you go to his ........ where he may have instruments and tools to quickly test and investigate.
Going to a nearby Ford Dealer with a Model A is usually similar to going to a local Ford Dealer with a horse and buggy for buggy repairs and new shoes for the horse.
Hope this helps.
Looks like a few "mechanical" items were never 100% satisfactorily resolved on your Model A.
If you investigate, there may be a Model A Club nearby with a Model A member residing near you.
Every Model A Club has at least one (1) mechanical person who may be able to quickly "see" all of your unseen Model A problems, offer FREE advice, and within a short time you could have a prioritized "to-do" list that could save lots of time and still allow you to do repairs if so desired.
He could either come to your place ......... or you go to his ........ where he may have instruments and tools to quickly test and investigate.
Going to a nearby Ford Dealer with a Model A is usually similar to going to a local Ford Dealer with a horse and buggy for buggy repairs and new shoes for the horse.
Hope this helps.
Last edited:
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
TIP# 371: Referring to the 2 leaking rear trans shafts, a friend cleaned the area with Brake Clean, cut 1/2" from the bottom of an oval plastic bottle, filled it with silicone rubber, SQUISHED it on & taped it with Duct Tape, until it cured. Cleaned the excess & painted it trans color. Looked like a "FACTORY" JOB!
Bill W.
Bill W.
Garagekulture13
Senior Member
I think you maybe onto something. I had just topped off all the floods when I noticed the oil REALLY leaking.
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1955cj5
Well-known member
Let's hope for a simple solution to your leaks....!
Like you I had been around old cars before the Model A came along last April.....it needed and still needs many things...it is a real learning experience!
I have gotten great advice and help from a local club member and Barn contributor.
And everything else I've either learned in the garage by doing or by watching posts and asking questions here on the Barn.
These cars have been around long enough that just about everything that could happen, has happened, and someone here on the Barn knows the answer...what a great resource!
I find the Judging Standards book to be very useful, along with the Service Bulletins and other repair manuals. Vendor catalogs can be of help too.
If nothing else the books help you identify what you really have bolted to your car and whether or not it's supposed to be there.....they are not just for those who want to compete.
Like you I had been around old cars before the Model A came along last April.....it needed and still needs many things...it is a real learning experience!
I have gotten great advice and help from a local club member and Barn contributor.
And everything else I've either learned in the garage by doing or by watching posts and asking questions here on the Barn.
These cars have been around long enough that just about everything that could happen, has happened, and someone here on the Barn knows the answer...what a great resource!
I find the Judging Standards book to be very useful, along with the Service Bulletins and other repair manuals. Vendor catalogs can be of help too.
If nothing else the books help you identify what you really have bolted to your car and whether or not it's supposed to be there.....they are not just for those who want to compete.
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Eighty year old differently manufactured Model A's have re-occurring differently manufactured weak points that one is sure to experience over and over after owning and/or observing several well used or poorly maintained Model A's.
Looks like you are locating them one by one.
They will all get far worse if not properly resolved in a professional mechanical manner.
May take time, but properly done with patience, one by one, you can definitely have a very reliable Model A.
A challenge, yes ...... and when you enjoy it ...... have at it ......
Looks like you are locating them one by one.
They will all get far worse if not properly resolved in a professional mechanical manner.
May take time, but properly done with patience, one by one, you can definitely have a very reliable Model A.
A challenge, yes ...... and when you enjoy it ...... have at it ......
Garagekulture13
Senior Member
Well thanks for the scare of the day. I went and checked and the bottom circle is what appears to be a crack. It actually is just a ledge just like the top circle. Thanks for looking out though!
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silversink
Senior Member
If you pull the eng. make sure you drain the oil first---------don't ask hahaha
Garagekulture13
Senior Member
As these things go I was replacing my old rubber ball over my radius ball when things didn't look right. When I tightened it up it was smashing the rubber pretty bad. So I did some searching and it appears I have pieces from two different replacement options. Is that what it appears to you all? The piece on the right was on top of the ball. First thing I noticed was it doesn't have the hole to allow oil through. The piece on the left was on the bottom.
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