Newbie with several questions

Garagekulture13

Garagekulture13

Senior Member
I'm not new to old cars but am new to A Models. I got my first Model A a few months back. It's a 1930 Coupe and from the best I can tell was a flipper car for the previous owner. I try to drive the car at least once a week and it runs out great. But she does leak coolant and oil at an alarming pace. The coolant is coming from what appears to be a repaired cra k in the block. What if anything can be done about this. Most I speak with say to clean up the crack and JB Weld it. Your opinion? Now for the oil leak it is pouring from the bell housing. I have to add oil to the transmission and motor about every 4 trips out. Your opinion? Any help would be much appreciated.
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That's a nice looking coupe. I can't help much! Had a crack in the same place and some other places too, I had to junk the block. As far a s the oil leaks go, Is it engine oil? Or trans oil? If it's from the engine, There is a small tube (about 1/2" or 3/8" X about3"-4"long) that screws into the main bearing cap. If that tube is missing or loosening it will cause severe leaking at the rear main which finds it's way to the fly wheel housing. If it's the trans leaking, pull the trans and replace the bearing on the input shaft. In my very limited experience, It is the rear of the trans that leaks the most, not the front. I hope this helps.
Terry
 
This mighhttp://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ceramic-motor-sealt be worth a try. ceramic sealehttp://www.irontite.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1r.
 
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In the third picture down where the front axle wishbone connects
to the flywheel housing the bolts look loose and the rubber is coming apart.
It looks like you have the replacement type with the rubber ball, the original
had no rubber.

Bob
 

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Oh ok thanks Bob C I will check it and replace if needed. By looking at your pics it looks like it definitely needs to be replaced. I checked the trans oil it was at the tip of the opening. It now is about an inch down. I guess over filling could be a possibility. But I do plan to pull the oil pan as I continue to see people mentioning a tube that maybe stopped up or fallen off. But as stated the trans fluid level is low. So at that this point I'm not sure if the oil is coming from the engine or the transmission. Motor has 15W40 and the trans has Macs 600W, which to me seems a little thin.

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It is common to find a trans leak in two places. One is on the rear drivers side of the transmission case where you will find a rectangular plate held in place with a bolt through the center. This plate holds two parallel shafts in place. You can purchase an inexpensive seal (cover) from most Model A suppliers which goes over the plate. Be sure to keep the rectangular plate in place when installing the cover. Use a bit of sealant on the cover. The second place to look is where the shifting rails (detent shafts), located in the shifting tower, protrude into the bell housing when shifting. Trans oil follows out with the rails and drips oil into the bell housing. Mitchell Manufacturing makes a product called the "Real Deal Oil Seal". It will seal the area where the trans oil drips. It can be installed through the clutch housing inspection cover, however, it is a bit difficult to do. (I have done it so it is possible)

You might be able to adjust the rear main babbitt cap to slow down or stop motor oil coming out of the bell housing. If the babbitt is too far worn, you are looking at a total rebuilding of your engine. Another possible reason for this leak is a plugged rear main cap tube. This tube returns the oil from the rear main back into the pan. You will have to pull the pan to inspect either of these possible fixes.
 
It looks like the rear main is leaking for some reason, bad gasket, missing return tube or improperly installed, etc. Are you running any of the old style stop leak in the coolant? It might seal the leak and give you some more time. You might want to fool with it and turn this into a learning experience while looking for a good block just in case. It needs to be gone through as you don't know what else is going on in there. Most people eventually have to take one apart.
 
Hi GK,

FWIW: Just one (1) experience with many Model A cracked blocks.

Not trying to be so blunt, but in my humble opinion, driving with a leaking, cracked 80 year old Model A block can be compared to being as risky as an 80 year old driver driving with a leaking heart valve.

On the bright side, heart valves have been known to have been successfully repaired; but in some cases, a heart transplant, (aka engine transplant) may be recommended by a well experienced, cardiologist, (i.e. a professional Model A mechanic, or a well experienced, professional vintage engine mechanic.)

One can gamble with varying Guessing Game responses from different cardiologist from New York to California and from far away ...... but a serious, respectable cardiologist with a 100% track record will never make that call for repair or replacement without thoroughly examining the unseen, untested, "actual" conditions.

I knew several vintage mechanics who were past masters and 100% successful at welding cast iron engine blocks ................ and ....... there were also many highly talented musicians during those days who played several musical instruments extremely well back then .......... today ........ their sons and grandsons listen to the radio and they never touche a musical instrument or a welding rod on an engine block

Hope this helps for you to seek "Experienced Hands-On" Model A assistance to investigate exactly what you have.

In my opinion, your most beautiful 80+ year engine leaking Model A deserves as much attention as any age person deserves a cardiologist check up with a leaking heart valve.
 
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Thanks for the replys. I will pull the oil pan and bell housing inspection plate tonight and take as many pictures as I can. If it helps in the trouble shooting it only leaks oil after I've been driving it. After it's cooled down it no longer leaks.

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Firstly, Welcome to the forum.
As for the patch job on the front of the block, it is right at the bottom of the water jacket. If the car weren't well maintained for some time in its history, crud from dirty water and rust tend to gather in those places and cause the block to rust. Left long enough, it will rust through. Early Buicks are notorious for it - good blocks for them are like hen's teeth.
I suggest cleaning off what ever that is on there now and seeing what you have. Welding may be possible but if it is thin over a large area, you may need a "new" block.
Oil leaks: Others have just about covered it already but i don't think anybody has mentioned the possibility of oil coming from the back of the can shaft. There should be a gasket between the back of the block and the flywheel housing. The Model A gearbox has a tendency to lose oil from around the selector shafts over time but I think you are losing it faster than that would cause. Do you check the oil level in the diff? Oil may be exiting he gearbox at the back and finding its way into the diff.
Keep us posted.
 
Nice looking coupe. If it were mine, I'd pull the engine, pin the crack, locate some different, correct size, main bearing caps, grind the valves and seats, adjust the valve clearences plastiguage all the rods & mains and re assemble it, add some block sealer to the radiator, and drive it till it stops.
Or just buy a rebuilt short block. Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
 
Here is some info on the apparent rear main leak...

Mine turned out to be from the rear cam bearing due to a missing gasket....some was also coming from the main, but most of the oil came from the cam

http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/REARMAINLEAK.html


There is a transmission vent hole on the back side of the shift tower, two or three inches from the top. If it is plugged then oil will be forced out of the transmission when it warms up.....
 
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Check with your local area model a club go to mafca.com check for clubs your area. Lots of help there? Good luck.
 
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