Newbie having brake (?) issues

hastingsman

hastingsman

Junior Member
Got my '29 coupe in March and took my first rumble seat passengers for a spin last week. They reported a grinding noise (?) from the driver's side rear and the hub was much warmer than the other side. I had previously noticed that the passenger side rear wheel turned much harder than the others, so I pulled both rear hubs.

The passenger side brake adjuster just turns without moving the shoes at all, and the driver's side adjuster won't move at all. I shot PB Blaster on it today in hopes of loosening something up.

I don't know that a brake adjustment is even needed to fix the issues, but I would like to be able to adjust them regardless. I wanted to start by backing them off and driving the car with a rumble seat passenger, as I can't hear the noise from the cab.

What does the brake adjusting wedge turn to move the shoes? Am I looking at a big job to replace the wedge if need be? And, how do I determine if the wheel bearings are the culprit and need replacing?

Thanks so much for any suggestions you may have. This car is fascinating to me, but I am a Model A virgin when it comes to repairs.
 
This is what your brake adjusting wedge looks like....it is really a cone that spreads the brake adjusting shafts as you screw the wedge in further. This pushes the shoe closer to the drum.

https://www.brattons.com/brake-adjusting-wedge.html




Brattons also has diagrams. This one is of the front brake assembly but you can see the wedge #14 and shaft #16. If you double click on the small views shown below the large one you can zoom on the parts.

https://www.brattons.com/assemblies/front-spindle-and-brake-assembly.html

The rear brakes also have an e-brake band not shown in the above diagram.

You should consider getting a repair manual such as Les Andrew's Volume 1. All the vendors carry them.

https://www.brattons.com/model-a-mechanics-handbook-vol-1.html

Can you post pictures?
 
Thanks much for the info. I ordered the suggested book last night. The brake set up looks a bit complicated with the emergency brake in the midst of it all, but we shall see.

I will try to figure out how to post pics, especially the drums. Might be able to detect brake drag from the photos, tho it looks pretty good to me. There was some brake dust present when I pulled the hub on the driver's side.

If these pics post, it's passenger side shots first, then driver's side.
 
Morning Hastingman and welcome.


I am going to assume you are totally new to Model A's and maybe being a mechanic-not sure. That being said, since the car is new to you and it sounds like you have a brake issue, I would totally disassemble the rear brakes. This will allow you to start from ground zero and inspect every part. What kind of shoes/drums do you have? I have bonded on cast iron and they squeak (drives me nuts). But if you have woven on cast iron that stuff will wear out your drums fast.


The adjuster wedge should move the shoes out and if they don't the threads may be stripped which means a new backing plate. Not sure how to spin test the rear bearings.


Mike
 
I would hold off on tearing into the brakes until thorough visual. Metal to metal should be obvious if that is the issue, other dragging contact might be visible as well. Gather all the helpful hints that your car can give you first.
 
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Hey- I appreciate the suggestions and. yes. I am new to very old Fords and a hobby mechanic, certainly not God's gift to the world of auto repair. I will await the arrival of the repair manual I ordered and attack the problem then. It kills me to let it sit 'cause it's a blast to drive, but I want to avoid further damage.

Not certain of what type shoe/drum combo is on the car. I THINK I've figured out how to post pics (finally), will try again with this post. Again, if this works, the first pics are passenger side followed by driver's side.
 
'29 Model A coupe rear brakes and hubs
 

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Looks like your drum is rubbing against the pins on the parking brake linkage. Most likely cause is that the taper on the axle and hub. After years of wear, the hub/drum can slide too far down the axle and get too close to he brake parts. Really quite common. The vendors sell a shim that fits around the axle taper to take up some of the wear, which will keep the drum far enough away from the brakes.
 
Could it be as easy as shims and gaskets and turning drums? You boys have given me fresh hope for a fix that I can perform myself. Thanks so much for the input. I will be busy ordering parts and finding a shop to turn the drums.
 
Those look like steel drums to me and if they are they are probably worn out.
Ford did not turn the steel drums.


Bob
 
Sand off the rust, but don't turn steel drums.
Clean dry taper, and you may have to add a shim or two.
Clean and regrease the wheel bearings.
 
Latest plan: sand drums, apply light coat of primer or paint to track future rubbing. Clean axles, apply ordered shims when they arrive. Repack wheel bearings. Pray to the Car Gods.
Check to see how the wheels are turning, drive car, pull hubs to check for anything rubbing on inside of drums.
Hope the PBBlaster loosens the brake adjuster. Tear down brake system when ordered manual arrives if necessary, replace parts as needed.
This should be fun!
 
There are lot's of good videos posted on You Tube. Just type in Model A in the search box. This will keep you busy while you wait on your order. Always align the posts with the information in your new Les Andrews Manual.
Post ANY questions you may have on this Forum, someone knows how to deal with your issue and will help you out. May be a knowledgeable Barner or Model A group in your neighborhood.
Most importantly, "Enjoy The Adventure", Chap
 
How hard was it to get the hubs to "pop" off of the axle taper. How chewed is the axle and the I.D. of the hub. Keys will shear and axles will spin in the hub and cause this. Also wear at the carrier and the axle gear in the differential. Use the shims, one step at a time for now. How are the threads on the end of the axle? 90 ft/lbs on the nut when reinstalling. There are new hubs and drums available now but not axles.
 
chap52 said:
There are lot's of good videos posted on You Tube. Just type in Model A in the search box. This will keep you busy while you wait on your order. Always align the posts with the information in your new Les Andrews Manual.
Post ANY questions you may have on this Forum, someone knows how to deal with your issue and will help you out. May be a knowledgeable Barner or Model A group in your neighborhood.
Most importantly, "Enjoy The Adventure", Chap
Click to expand...

That's good advice, and I like the invitation to ask questions. So- let me ask this: while I'm waiting for parts and a repair manual, I decided to attempt to raise the radiator for a better fit on the hood.

The bolts at the base of the radiator have springs on them-?-. I plan to replace the bolts with longer ones and install shims, but I'm curious as to why there are springs present.

Thanks again- Jon
 
The springs are supposed to be there as you probably guessed.

https://www.brattons.com/radiator-mounting-to-frame-bolt-set.html

The set above includes rubber pads that go between the radiator and the frame.

My truck has a later front cross member so the area where the radiator mounts is lower than a '29 ought to be.

I needed two rubber pads on each side to get the radiator to the proper height.

I suppose the springs are there to allow some movement/flex of the radiator..a hard mount might eventually fatigue the radiator lower tank and cause a leak.....

When you get the radiator out a picture of your front cross member should help identify it as a '29 or a later version........
 
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