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Beauford

Well-known member
Hello! Just joined this great group as I just got a hold of a 1928 Model A body four door and a 1930 (so I am told) frame with motor, trans. 8 spoked wheels, all the glass, bumpers, fenders and boxes of stuff for 2K. Oh, and a extra motor someone turned into a wood planer. I'm great with small engines but never really did much with cars so this will be a fun! The body was already off the frame. I am currently soaking cylinders with evapo-rust as the front pulley will not turn. I needed the cranking tool so ordered one. Hopefully I can break the engine free. Got a whole new gasket kit, wiring (which is all gone) carb, (didnt have one) plugs and so on....Only thing I can not find are rear radius rods. Mine are rusted out. I assume a trip to the fabrication shop will be in order. Also, trying to remove horn rod I got cap off but rod did not come with it....rusted and broke. least of my worries at the moment. Just hoping this motor is ok. I bought $100 some dollars of restoration books so I'm on my way with a long fun process.
 
Beauford said:
...Only thing I can not find are rear radius rods. Mine are rusted out. I assume a trip to the fabrication shop will be in order...
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Too bad you are so far away, I have an extra set of perfect rear radius rods.

Bert's and Arizona Model A will have them as well.

Also, the rodders typically have them to dispose of one way or another.

Check out the Swap Meet, they show up there frequently.
 
May I suggest that you may be using Evapo Rust incorrectly. To free up stuck parts you may want to use Auto xmission oil, Krol of some similar product. I may be wrong, I was one other time but she is still with me some 55 years later. Jack
 
Welcome to a fun and sometimes frustrating hobby. It's probably along way off but be aware when you get ready to put the body on the frame, there are some differences in the front crossmember between the 28,29 frames and the 30,31 frames. All of this has been covered here before and I am sure is in the archives.You are fortunate to have such a great resource as fordbarn at your fingertips. Good luck and remember to keep it fun. Frank
 
Welcome Beauford! Since you said you have a 28 fordoor might I highly suggest you look the wood in the body over VERY carefully. The wood is the structure of these bodies and is very expensive to replace correctly. Also, as stated above you the evaporust in the cylinders probably won't work. You need a mix of acetone and ****** fluid if I remember the formula correctly-50/50.

Mike
 
Try this.
 

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Here's a thought. At some point and time, everyone here was a newbie. But it looks like you have the start of a wonderful project. And as all have said, have fun, take your time, and the outcome will be something you and yours can be proud of.
 
Beauford, after you soak up your cylinders with whatever rust remover you use, take a short 4x4 wood block and put it in the cylinder and tap it gently and this will help to free up the pistons.
 
Just got home from night shift after 15 hour soak of your recommended ATF, tapped the valves with a plastic screw driver handle and she is starting to turn! ATF sloshing out the cylinders! What do I do next? Take it apart and look for bad stuff?? I can't be this lucky! I have time as my carb is on back order. LOL As MLK said....Free at last, free at last! They are still soaking and hope when I get off work tomorrow morning it will be easier! Hope this is a good sign! Thanks guys!!
 
Beauford,
In addition to what others have said you may want to look for a local Model A club in your area of Virginia. Most times there will be members who have gone through restorations and they can advise and maybe even help you. As you already know this forum is a great source of information.
Good luck with your project,
Dave
 
Look for a number on the top of the DS rail near the middle cross member. If you can find one, that will tell you what year your frame is. Post it here or refer to the sticky at the top of the page for reference.
 
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